You're confusing GVWR for the truck (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) with GCWR for the truck (Gross Combined Weight Rating). GVWR includes truck, passengers, gear, cargo, and tongue weight. GCWR adds in the trailer weight actually carried on the trailer axles (total trailer weight or GVWR for the trailer minus the tongue weight which is carried on the truck). What you need to determine is the following:
RPMs at 70mph - if it's 2k or above, you have the higher tow capacity; if it's around 1800, you have the lower tow capacity
Your actual tow capacity will be the factory capacity number minus all the gear, passengers, cargo, add-ons, and such. That means if you weigh more than 150lbs (I sure do!) your tow capacity is reduced by any amount over 150lbs, because the factory rating figures a "standard 150lb driver" as the only passenger. If you have three other people in the truck, their weights come out of the tow capacity. If you have a big aftermarket iron front bumper, a tonneau cover, step bars, added subwoofer, a cooler, or gas cans, or tool boxes, or anything in the truck, that comes off your towing capacity. Once you figure out your real towing capacity, then you can assess whether a trailer is too heavy for your truck. Here's an example:
I have a 2011 Pro4X with the 9300lb towing capacity. But I have to subtract for the following:
I'm 235lbs, so I lose 85lbs in capacity to my own weight.
I carry about 40lbs of tools and fluids in my truck when traveling.
I travel with my wife and kids, which combined weigh about 380lbs.
We bring the dog, who weighs 90lbs.
I have a fiberglass tonneau cover which weighs about 100lbs.
I have a WDH setup which weighs about 100lbs.
So my real towing capacity is 9300lbs minus the 795lbs of passengers, cargo, add-ons, and gear I carry in/on the truck, coming to a real towing capacity of 8505lbs. If I have a trailer which weighs anywhere under about 7500-8000lbs GVWR (the max weight the trailer is rated for) I should be good, as it leaves me some margin for error.
RPMs at 70mph - if it's 2k or above, you have the higher tow capacity; if it's around 1800, you have the lower tow capacity
Your actual tow capacity will be the factory capacity number minus all the gear, passengers, cargo, add-ons, and such. That means if you weigh more than 150lbs (I sure do!) your tow capacity is reduced by any amount over 150lbs, because the factory rating figures a "standard 150lb driver" as the only passenger. If you have three other people in the truck, their weights come out of the tow capacity. If you have a big aftermarket iron front bumper, a tonneau cover, step bars, added subwoofer, a cooler, or gas cans, or tool boxes, or anything in the truck, that comes off your towing capacity. Once you figure out your real towing capacity, then you can assess whether a trailer is too heavy for your truck. Here's an example:
I have a 2011 Pro4X with the 9300lb towing capacity. But I have to subtract for the following:
I'm 235lbs, so I lose 85lbs in capacity to my own weight.
I carry about 40lbs of tools and fluids in my truck when traveling.
I travel with my wife and kids, which combined weigh about 380lbs.
We bring the dog, who weighs 90lbs.
I have a fiberglass tonneau cover which weighs about 100lbs.
I have a WDH setup which weighs about 100lbs.
So my real towing capacity is 9300lbs minus the 795lbs of passengers, cargo, add-ons, and gear I carry in/on the truck, coming to a real towing capacity of 8505lbs. If I have a trailer which weighs anywhere under about 7500-8000lbs GVWR (the max weight the trailer is rated for) I should be good, as it leaves me some margin for error.
