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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Obviously you first need a set of 08+ steering wheel switches. They can be out of a Titan or Armada. This how-to thread will demonstrate how to use the horn power source to power the lights on your steering wheel. The horn power is full time, so the later half of this process will be to move your horn power to an ignition power source so the steering wheel switch lights are only on when the ignition switch is on; along with the horn. The following steps will reference photos attached to each post. Please do not reply until I have the steps completed.

  1. Disconnect the Battery for at least 5 mins before moving to the next step.
  2. Remove the airbag using the two retaining bolts that are under the oval cover caps on each back side of the steering wheel.
  3. Unplug the airbag by pulling the clip retainers straight out away from the back of the airbag. See 1st attachment.
  4. Unplug the grey plug for the steering switches and horn.
  5. Remove the steering wheel by removing the center nut. You may need a steering wheel puller. Also note the position of your steering wheel so you can reinstall it on center.
  6. Once the steering wheel is removed, remove the plastic cover from the back of it exposing the retaining screws for the switches.
  7. Swap the switches and reinstall steering wheel in reverse order.
  8. Bring the new grey plug into a workable area and position so you are looking at it similar to the 2nd attachment.
  9. Cut the two orange and two black wires from the back of the plug as shown in the 3rd attachment. These are the lighting power wires for each switch.
  10. Cut the green wire back away from the switch and strip all of them. Your result should resemble the 4th attachment.
  11. Though I don't have a good picture, you need to install a chassis ground. I used the left retaining screw on the horn switch. See 5th attachment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Continued......

  1. Splice both orange wires to both greens. The green is the same wire cut in half with one half going to the grey plug and one half going to the gold/brass terminal that plugs into the airbag. See 1st & 2nd attachment.
  2. Splice both blacks to the chassis ground from step #11 of the first post. See 1st & 2nd attachment.
  3. Tuck all the wiring in slots and reinstall the airbag. This completes the steering wheel part. At this time your steering switch lights will be on all the time until you complete the next section.

    Moving the horn power from full time (batt) to ignition. We are now in the fuse panel under the hood. I chose to use my O2 sensor power source; however, any ignition switched source should work. It is best to pick one that has a small load on it and/or does not get used often.

  4. Locate the horn fuse. See 3rd attachment.
  5. Wire tap the fuse and reinstall with the tap on the line side (power side) of the terminal. Wire tap terminal needs to be facing the rear of the truck. See 4th & 5th attachments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Continued......

  1. Remove the ignition switched fuse of your choice and wire tap it. Then reinstall it with the wire tap on the load side terminal. Putting it on the load side will ensure the horn circuit is fused. I also upped the fuse by 5 amps. See 1st attachment.
  2. The 2nd attachment shows how it should look when complete. Tuck the new jumper wire down with the rest and reinstall the cover.
  3. Reconnect your battery and check them out. They should look like the 3rd & 4th attachments. With regard to the warning, if you do manage to turn your airbag light on, let me know and I will post how to turn it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
DONE:thumbsup:
 

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Thank you for the info, this is my next "improvement" to my 2007.

Quick q? though, I didn't read the PDF's yet, but did you install a resistor? I found a resistor in the 08+ schematics for the harness going to the LED lighting....I could never find the value from any other source, but my guess would be 400-500 ohms....

Oh and the worst part of this mod so far for me has been finding a source for the switches, they never seem to come up on eBay
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Quick q? though, I didn't read the PDF's yet, but did you install a resistor? I found a resistor in the 08+ schematics for the harness going to the LED lighting....I could never find the value from any other source, but my guess would be 400-500 ohms....
I didn't put a resistor in. When I pulled my wife's 08 Armada apart to research, I read full line/batt voltage on the terminals feeding the lights. No issues so far and I have had them in since last thanksgiving time frame.
 

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I didn't put a resistor in. When I pulled my wife's 08 Armada apart to research, I read full line/batt voltage on the terminals feeding the lights. No issues so far and I have had them in since last thanksgiving time frame.
Maybe it was a mistake in the FSM, they drew the resistor between the clockspring and the dash harness. I bet they meant the resistors that are on the PCB in the switches...
Thanks for the info as I was trying to figure out where this mystery resistor was!
 

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Thanks man!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Maybe it was a mistake in the FSM, they drew the resistor between the clockspring and the dash harness. I bet they meant the resistors that are on the PCB in the switches...
Thanks for the info as I was trying to figure out where this mystery resistor was!
I agree that it would be on the board in the switch. I can't imagine them having one in line.
 

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Obviously you first need a set of 08+ steering wheel switches. They can be out of a Titan or Armada. This how-to thread will demonstrate how to use the horn power source to power the lights on your steering wheel. The horn power is full time, so the later half of this process will be to move your horn power to an ignition power source so the steering wheel switch lights are only on when the ignition switch is on; along with the horn. The following steps will reference photos attached to each post. Please do not reply until I have the steps completed.

  1. Disconnect the Battery for at least 5 mins before moving to the next step.
  2. Remove the airbag using the two retaining bolts that are under the oval cover caps on each back side of the steering wheel.
  3. Unplug the airbag by pulling the clip retainers straight out away from the back of the airbag. See 1st attachment.
  4. Unplug the grey plug for the steering switches and horn.
  5. Remove the steering wheel by removing the center nut. You may need a steering wheel puller. Also note the position of your steering wheel so you can reinstall it on center.
  6. Once the steering wheel is removed, remove the plastic cover from the back of it exposing the retaining screws for the switches.
  7. Swap the switches and reinstall steering wheel in reverse order.
  8. Bring the new grey plug into a workable area and position so you are looking at it similar to the 2nd attachment.
  9. Cut the two orange and two black wires from the back of the plug as shown in the 3rd attachment. These are the lighting power wires for each switch.
  10. Cut the green wire back away from the switch and strip all of them. Your result should resemble the 4th attachment.
  11. Though I don't have a good picture, you need to install a chassis ground. I used the left retaining screw on the horn switch. See 5th attachment.
When you honk the horn, does the switch backlighting go out?
 

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I have a 2008.5 XE CC. It came with cruise control but no audio controls. I'm running an Alpine HU. My truck came with the older non-backlit cruise controls (and they quit working).

I just bought a 2008 Armada steering wheel with newer backlit controls. Do you think my swap will be plug and play because I have a 2008 truck? Or since I have old controls I will have to do all of this wiring in your how-to?

Are the connectors the same style? Maybe they just were emptying the old parts bin when they did my truck.
 

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I installed a 2010 pro 4x steering wheel with illuminated controls in my 05 Titan today. The only thing I did a little bit different was I used a fuse tap and an add-a-fuse instead of just wrapping the wire around the fuse posts. One thing to note is that a blown fuse must be used in the horn fuse location so that the ignition source can be the new source of power to the horn/illuminated steering wheel controls. Didn't take long at all.



Thanks to the OP for posting the How to as it was very helpful.
 

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Bumping this thread so as not to make a new one.

I just finished this mod today and wired it up just like described above and everything works like it should.
But one problem I am having now is that when I arm my factory alarm, the horn doesn't honk....nor does it honk when I trigger the alarm by opening the door while armed.

Has anyone who has done this mod have the same problem...and/or possible solutions? I'd appreciate any info. :)
 

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Bumping this thread so as not to make a new one.

I just finished this mod today and wired it up just like described above and everything works like it should.
But one problem I am having now is that when I arm my factory alarm, the horn doesn't honk....nor does it honk when I trigger the alarm by opening the door while armed.

Has anyone who has done this mod have the same problem...and/or possible solutions? I'd appreciate any info. :)
Yeah you are going to loose the honk since the horn power is not a constant power but an ignition power source.
 

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Has anyone done this by running a wire threw the column for the power source instead of using the horn power? The only issue I can think of is the slack needed for turning the wheel.
 
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