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How To: Custom KC 10" Subwoofer Box ( '04 Nissan Titan King Cab )

32K views 20 replies 11 participants last post by  MotoMattB  
#1 · (Edited)
*** PART I – GATHERING SUPPLIES & DESIGN CHECK ***

Sammy Sandbag wrote a great "How To" for a Subwoofer Box that fits perfectly under the rear seats of his Titan. The only problem is: Sammy has a Crew Cab with a lot more space under his rear seats than those of us with King Cabs. However, Sammy’s post showed me that I could make my own since the materials are readily available, and once acquired, the box is simple to make and costs less than half as much as a custom box from an audio store. And it looks & fits better!

I started by measuring the volume under the rear 40% seat. I then drew this volume in SolidWorks (CAD program) and shelled it out with ¾” thick walls, simulating a box made with ¾” MDF. I played with the dimensions until I had an interior volume of approximately 0.75 cubic feet, which is what my 10” subwoofer manufacture recommends (RF). I then made a cardboard mockup of the box for a test fit. I noted areas that interfered, and made dimensional changes. I continued doing that until the mockup (plus space for the speaker & grill) would fit.

Once I had a design that would fit, I cut it up into 6 separate parts, using a combination of ½” and ¾” thick pieces of material. The Home Depot I went to had precut pieces of MDF, which is what I needed. Since ½” MDF was available, I used it to increase the internal volume of my box, but only used it in areas where the screws would only go normal to the face box, not through an edge. I took the 6 separate parts and made a complete SolidWorks assembly out of them using to the cut dimensions of each part, making sure all the pieces would fit together and that the complete solid model assembly would have the correct final dimensions and would fit under the seat, like my mockup.
 

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#2 ·
*** PART II – DRAWINGS & INITIAL CONSTRUCTION ***

I then cut the 6 pieces of the box out of the MDF based on the drawings. Check your dimensions for your speaker and terminal before you cut the holes according to my drawings, since your parts are probably different than mine.
 

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#3 ·
*** PART III – ASSEMBLY & FINISHING TOUCHES ***

Now that everything is ready to be put together, the fun beings. I glued the front, bottom, back, and side pieces together using the Liquid Nails Heavy Duty adhesive. After letting it dry for 30-minutes to an hour (enough to let the assembly stick together, but short enough let the sides squeeze together when you put in the screws), I pre-drilled holes for the screws using a 3/32” drill bit. I drilled holes 2” apart along the edge of each face, and drilled normal to the ½” MDF sides into the edges of the ¾” MDF sides. I then drove in the 2” screws, applying enough force to sink them 1/16” into the wood.

I applied more Liquid Nails Heavy Duty along the seams to seal the box extra good, since my cutting skills with the saw aren’t the best or straightest. After the adhesive dried (1-2 hours), I sanded all edges down and removed sharp corners. I the applied the Liquid Nails All-Weather Sealant to the interior of the box to give it a good, air-tight seal.

Before you attach the lid, now would be a good time to make sure you cut everything to the correct dimensions. Make sure the box, lid, sub & grille all fit under the rear seat of your Kind Cab Titan. Also make sure the speaker terminal fits in it’s hole.

If your happy with how things are going, the use the Liquid Nails to attach the top of the box, and drill more holes and put in the screws, same as before. I applied more Liquid Nails to the seams, let it dry, sanded, and put more Liquid Nails All-Weather Sealant into the interior edge of the newly added top.

Once I was happy with my “naked box”, I could put the finishing touches on it and work to impress all my friends with my hard work. I began wrapping the box with the carpet on the bottom so that the seam where the edges meet would not be easily visible. I liberally sprayed the box with the 3M Super 77 adhesive and allowed it to become tacky for a minute before I put down the carpet. I did one side at a time, going around the box until I came to the edge on the bottom. I then moved to the sides where I cut and folded the carpet under the 3/8” edges that stick out of the sides (see, there is a reason behind my madness!). I trimmed the carpet until I was happy with how it fit, and I sprayed it and glued it down. I then cut out two more pieces of carpet in the exact shape of each “Side” pieces of the box, and then glued them in place.

Once the carpet was set, I cut out the holes for the sub and the terminal, and left a little extra hanging over to fold over into the opening. Again, I sprayed the carpet and glued the edges down.

Once that was done, I drilled holes for the sub, terminal, and metal corner protectors. I then screwed them all in place using the ¾” screws. Finally, I drilled holes for the grille clips and screwed on the grille using the 1” screws.

And presto! You have a custom 10” Subwoofer Box that fits perfect, looks awesome, and saved $100 by doing it yourself.

The final interior volume ended up being 0.63 cubic feet, which is smaller than recommended, but within the suggested range. The smaller box will result in a deeper base for lower frequencies, which is what I want anyway. This size is also the recommended volume for an 8” speaker, which will work perfect with a smaller hole in the top.
 

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#5 ·
smoketitan said:
VER NICE AND DETAILED!!!!!!!!!

who did you cad designs those are very nice
I DID :)

The solid model was done in SolidWorks, and the drawings were produced from the 3D model.

Thanks for the compliments. I went all out on this DIY because TitanTalk.com has helped me out so much, I wanted to return the favor.
 
#6 ·
Can we use that same model on a CC? will the CC be larger, smaller, longer, taller, etc?

THX in advance...
 
#7 ·
Very very nice, I might have you draw me up some new plans since I've forgotten everything I ever knew about CAD! I'm still planning on making an improved box for my Titan, hopefully with an upgraded amp/sub.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Aggie,

Very nice work and appreciate you posting your results as I have a KC as well and will 'upgrade' soon ourselves....so many projects...so little time...LOL

Quick question...di you mount the amp behind the seatback like I have seen others do? pics of that?

Chris
 
#9 ·
No, I was worried about air flow problems and possibly overheating back there.

There is a large amount of space under the front passenger seat, so I mounted my amp, cap, and wiring to a peice of wood covered in carpet, and put that under the seat.

I then ran the speaker wiring under the plastic kick-plate at the base of the door opening, and around the back of the seats, and to my speaker. You'll need about 9 1/2 feet of wire to do that, but it's clean in inconspicuous.

i dont have any good pictures of it, but if you want some i can take some.
 
#11 ·
Beautiful thread, I appreciate your hard work for everyone elses benefit. :cheers:
 
#12 ·
Titan4x4Aggie's Modified Sub Box

Hey All! This is my first post. I'd like to thank Titan4x4Aggie for his awesome write up on the custom sub enclosure. All props to you man.....

I took the sub enclosure that Titan4x4Aggie drew up and modified it slightly. First, I used all 3/4" particle board instead of 1/2" on the top and bottom. I also chopped 3/4" off the front, back and side pieces. Next, I didn't offset the side pieces, instead I made them flush with the others. Finally, I put the terminal in a slightly different spot and I recessed the sub mount. Note that all seams on this closed box were sealed with a healthy amount of silicone caulking as well as around the lip where the sub sits. I'll be finishing up the carpeting tomorrow and stuffing the heck out of it with some polyfill. Also be aware that this box does fit a 12" sub!!! You have to cut into the walls a bit and move some screws around, but believe me, it'll fit!! Oh yeah, I forgot to tell why I chopped off 3/4" from the front, back and sides......1) to make up for not using 1/2" on the top and bottom, and 2) to gain additional clearance under the rear seat (this is also why I recessed the sub, plenty of room to move some serious air, especially when you're pushing 1000 watts!!!)

Good luck on all your DIY's!
 

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#13 ·
good job!!!! glad i could help out.

you are adventurous with the 12" sub, especially shrinking the box size down.

but, with that much power, you should get some nice, low, loud bass response.

definately put up some (high) res pictures when you are done and let us know how it sounds.

ps - once you get that carpet down with the 3m, make sure it's right. that stuff doesn't like to come off, even right after you apply it. VERY STICKY!!!!
 
#14 ·
Update on my 12" enclosure

Finished my 12" enclosure this past Sunday night. I carpeted the box with some charcoal colored marine carpet that I found at Home Depot for $7. Today my first born is in the shop getting the stereo and the center console replaced - some warranty stuff. When I get it back I'll do the final install of the sub. I've got an 8 gauge wiring setup running through a 1 farad cap and into my amp. I'm gonna setup the amp and cap under the passenger seat and run my wires like Aggie did his. I'll post some pics of the finished enclosure later tonight and some shots of the final install next week sometime.

Happy DIYing!!!
 
#15 ·
dude what is the mounting depth of your wooferthat you were able to get a 12" woofer in there??

I sure hope you gave the speaker vent hole enough room to breathe ( at leat 0.5") or you will surely blow your speaker from overheating

very nice though

and how do you guys make those various angled cuts like that??
 
#16 ·
12" Sub in a 10" box?!?!?!?

Sub depth is around 6". Note that I did cut approximately 1/4" out of the bottom piece of 3/4" particle board to gain some much needed clearance for the magnet. All seems to fit pretty well actually and I can't wait to fire it up! I won't be able to get pix up until early next week, so check back then for an update.

Good luck with all your projects!

PS - If anyone with an '04 hasn't been back to the dealership for warranty work, go ASAP! Tell them you RF signal is weak and you'll get a brand-spankin' new stereo. It's an existing issue they know about and thus won't hassle you on it.
 
#18 ·
BobbyT said:
PS - If anyone with an '04 hasn't been back to the dealership for warranty work, go ASAP! Tell them you RF signal is weak and you'll get a brand-spankin' new stereo. It's an existing issue they know about and thus won't hassle you on it.
Can you elaborate a bit more. Im not to clear on what you mean?