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? can u help me? my daughter put change in my cd disc changer. she took the cd's out first then put change in the slot. How do i get into the stereo through the dash. then take out my loose change so i can stop listening to my boring radio stations and listen to my 500 cd's.
 

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QWIKWHIP said:
Just thought I'd post an update. It's now been over a year since I've done this and it's still working perfectly! This mod was well worth the effort. :cheers:
Same here. It's still going.:cheers:
 

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This thread definitely needs to be kicked up again. I did it to the stereo in my '04 and now I have an '08 stereo and I would like to do the same thing. Has anyone tried this mod with an 08 stereo??
 

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Ok. Im not super electricely inclined, and I just noticed this thread. Is all the other stuff necessary, or is just soidering the wires in place good enuff. I have a speaker wire to rca converter now and it sounds horrible. I would like to do this to use the factory head unit till the new one I want is out.
 

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I have a factory-refurbished Kicker MX700.5 5-channel amp in my boat that I got off eBay for $310; It works perfectly so I am OK going with refurbished, for now anyway. So ...

I see that both Kicker's 5-channel ZX700.5 (70W x 4 + 210W x 1 (sub) RMS (4 ohms)) and 4-channel ZX850.4 (175W x 4 RMS (4 ohms)) accept both low-level (normal RCA's) and high-level (speaker level) inputs. Their latest models of these just have a button you push for whether you're inputting low- or high-level signals.

I think these would eliminate both the need for an LOC (Line Out Converter) or trying to perform the OEM HU modifications described in this thread.

A new 5-channel ZX700.5 on eBay is about $315 including shipping
A refurbished 4-channel ZX850.4 on eBay is about $290 including shipping

If you're going to buy an amp anyway, wouldn't this make sense?

What do you all think?
 

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After reading all 48 posts on this topic, I would like to add my professional opinion as an electrical engineer who has designed many audio circuits..

The operation and procedure listed in the first post as "How-To: Getting a pre amp signal" is an unsafe way of obtaining a clean, low level audio output. In no way, shape, or form, should capacitors be removed from your OEM Headunit's circuit board. They are placed in the design for a very specific and IMPORTANT purpose by audio engineers who understand this circuitry better 99% of us here on TitanTalk. My recommendation: Do not perform this procedure unless you want to risk destroying your factory headunit. I'm not stating that this procedure WILL destroy, but now you've modified a professionally designed circuit and never tested your new output with the proper equipment, you're now dabbling with the unknown. You don't have any idea what your new output levels are, what the noise quality is, what your DC levels are.

If your intention is use a 3rd party amplifier with your factory headunit, I suggest the following:

1. (EASIEST & LOWEST COST) Determine if your amplifier can accept "high-level" inputs. You can find this in the user manual. It will usually come in one of two forms: 1) A 4-wire harness coming directly out of the amplifier OR 2) A High-Low Level switch that sets the input level of the Pre-amp inputs (RCA).

2. (MORE COMPLEX & COSTLY) Use a quality, ACTIVE (meaning DC powered) Line Output Converter, such as the AudioControl LC2i(~$99). These are pricy for a reason. Your goal is to achieve a low-level signal suitable to connect to a pre-amp input section of an amplifier with very minimal noise and no DC voltage levels. With a quality, active LOC, this is achieved. IMHO, the PAC LOC (which I've used and sold for years as a previous mobile A&V store owner and installer) is not a quality device, and will allow thumps, alternator whine, and other noises to pass through it's low quality transformer. The price of the PAC AOEM-NIS2 is $38 from SonicElectronix.com and speaks for itself to the quality of the unit.

** Just on side note however, no matter which method you choose, you'll need to set the bass and treb levels reasonably (Bass=<2, Treb=<2)on the OEM headunit to produce as little noise as possible. The OEM headunit isn't great quality as-is, so if you are REALLY concerned with a perfectly clean, clear, HIGH quality sound, you would need to replace the headunit.
 

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i installed an Orion Cobalt 8001 amp and this amp has a set of wires that you splice straight into the left rear speaker wires and on the other end it plugs into the amp, you dont need any rcs cables with this setup this wire replaces it and my amp turns on and off with the stereo as an amp should.
 

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i installed an Orion Cobalt 8001 amp and this amp has a set of wires that you splice straight into the left rear speaker wires and on the other end it plugs into the amp, you dont need any rca cables with this setup this wire replaces it and my amp turns on and off with the stereo as an amp should.
my factory amp with my RF system powers just my interior speakers and the amp powers my 8 inch RF P2D2. and it kicks for real....sounds like a 10in sub
 

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FEATURES

Small Proprietary Orion Industrial Design with illuminated design detail
High-level inputs with auto turn-on circuit
Flexible frontends to accommodate a variety of system configurations
Excellent small signal parameters

SPECIFICATIONS

Model Number CO8001
Max Power 800 Watts Peak
4 Ohm Rating 1 x 300
2 Ohm Rating 1 x 400
 

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I wired in a LOC behind the HU to the rear speakers. Not sure what I did but now the radio stays on. There is constant power even when truck is off m, key out and locked. Is it possible that the LOC is making a circle of some kind? Idk how. Like this even with the fuse to the amp is pulled.
 
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