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How To: Installing AEM Bruteforce Intake

13853 Views 17 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Geezbo
21
Well today i installed my bruteforce intake and decided to take pictures of the process. While i know the intake comes with directions, i thought i would make instructions using color pictures and do it so that those who havent bought the intake yet know what is involved in its installation. So lets get started!:coolsmile

REMOVING STOCK INTAKE:
First step i did was turn my wheel all the way to the left to give me access to the fender liner. Now this step is optional as you can skip taking down the fender liner altogether (to be discussed later) but for my install i did.



Here you have the stock setup.


First remove the two bolts from the engine cover as so


I removed the cover by giving the back a gentle tug. Be careful as you do not want to break the alignment "posts" that attach the engine cover to the back of the engine.

Next step is to remove the Mass Airflow Sensor. First unclip the sensor from the wire harness. Use a phillips head screwdriver to remove the two screws as shown.


Set the MAF sensor aside. Be very careful with this as it is delicate. I put mine in a plastic bag and put it somewhere where i knew it wouldnt drop or step on it.

Unhook the breather hoses from the stock intake. Using some pliers if they are too hard to do by hand. (not pictured)

Unclip the airbox lid and loosen the hose clamp at the throttle body (pictured)


Now take off the intake from the throttle body and remove the whole upper half. You should be left with this.


Now remove the stock panel airfilter. Remove the bolt from the bottom of the airbox.


Next remove the bolt from the top side of the airbox. Keep this one as you will be using it for the heatshield.



After this step the instructions from AEM say to take off the washer bottle. YOU DONT HAVE TO DO THIS. As i found out from tips from other members you can remove the lower airbox without taking off the washer bottle. To do this tug at the box with an upward motion and the hidden bolt will slide through the rubber holder. You should be left with this.



Remove the golden looking bolt that is visible.

Here is the optional step that you dont have to take. Some members attached their heatshield at the bottom fender with zip ties and others have said that you dont even need to attach it with anything as the top two bolts work well enough. I decided to put the supplied screws in anyway. So I jacked up the truck and removed the clips from the fenderliner. Most of them should pop out with the twist of a flat-head screwdriver. There is however 1 screw holding the liner at the front of the truck (headlight front). Remove it and unclip the other clips holding the liner. Now you can pull down the liner and see the clips holding the wire harness to the fender as shown.



Now unclip the little plastic holders from the fender. I used a pair of needle nosed pliers.

Attach the rubber molding to the top of the heatshield. After this is done place the heatshield inside the engine bay.

Next use the bolt from the stock airbox to attach the top (near the cab) mounting hole to the truck. Then use the supplied bolt to secure the bottom mounting tab of the heatshield to the truck. Once done it should look like this.



The next step depends on what you decided on earlier. If you did not remove the fender liner, zip tie the bottom holes of the heatshield the the truck fender. If you decided to attach it with the supplied bolts, do so with the 4 bolts and nuts supplied. Once you are done clip the harness that you uncliped from the fender and attach it to the holes above the bolts you just attached to the fender. Reinstall the fender liner using the clips and screw you removed earlier.

Now slide the silicone coupler to the throttle body.


Next attach the bolt with the rubber in the middle to the outside of the heatshield as per the directions.


The inside should look like this.


Now lay the filter inside of the heatshield and place the intake tube in place.


Next slip the filter into the tube and tighten the hose-clamp on the filter.


Now line up the pipe support tab to the bolt with the rubber that you previouly attached to the heatshield. Make sure that the support tab from the intake tube is touching the rubber and the supplied washer and nut are on the outside as shown.



Now make sure the tube is not rubbing or touching anything and tighten the clamp at the throttle body securing the intake tube.


Next, slip the supplied breather hoses to the intake. Tighten the small hose clamps to secure it to the intake tube.


Now attach the other end of the breather hoses to the stock breather hoses. Use the stock spring clamps to attach them to each other.


Now plug in the Mass airflow sensor into the intake tube using the stock screws. Make sure to install it gently to prevent damage. Also make sure it is installed the same way it was taken out.

Reinstall the engine cover and check all the bolts to make sure that they are tight. Your engine should now look like this.


Enjoy your new intake. :cheers:


I think that covers it all. If any who has installed this intake before sees a step i missed or has any additional tips to add please chime in.

My total install time was about an hour after a slight rain delay that kept me from working. The install is very easy as long as you can install and remove bolts. As stated before some members say that you dont have to use the bolts to attach to bottom side heatshield to the fender. If you dont do this and use zip ties the install time should be shorter.

Hope this helps those thinking about getting the intake. Its a very easy mod to install.
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You can save some time and energy by not removing the tire well...All you have to do is cut thoe plastic gromment and then after you get the box installed you can wire tie them back into the holes......and the instructions tell you to remove the washer bottle, I can tell you there is no need to do that step.

Is that the old style oiled filter......the dry flow is a white filter.

Hope these two steps help someone down the road.
rgregory1965 said:
You can save some time and energy by not removing the tire well...All you have to do is cut thoe plastic gromment and then after you get the box installed you can wire tie them back into the holes......and the instructions tell you to remove the washer bottle, I can tell you there is no need to do that step.

Is that the old style oiled filter......the dry flow is a white filter.

Hope these two steps help someone down the road.
Nice write up, that will probably help others alot. That is the dry flow, mine isn't white either. It is a grayish color.
I wounder what the diff is....I got mine 2 weeks ago and the dry flow filter is white like copy paper.....

OH well they work hu?
rgregory1965 said:
I wounder what the diff is....I got mine 2 weeks ago and the dry flow filter is white like copy paper.....

OH well they work hu?
I wonder if they changed? I got my intake used. Does yours say AEM dryflow on the end of the filter?
Nice write up. Im picture 13 that bolt is touching my windshielf fluid resovoir. I treid to adjust some things but it's still touchin. Anyone else have this problem or know if I did anything wrong? Truck runs great.
Nice writeup spoonman, I wish I saw it before installing mine - removing the wiper fluid reservoir sucked. Here's a bump...
Thanks for the tutorial man! Wonderful job!:upsidedow
Schrute said:
Nice writeup spoonman, I wish I saw it before installing mine - removing the wiper fluid reservoir sucked. Here's a bump...
Yep, worst experience EVAR
AF-Medic said:
Nice write up. Im picture 13 that bolt is touching my windshielf fluid resovoir. I treid to adjust some things but it's still touchin. Anyone else have this problem or know if I did anything wrong? Truck runs great.
You mentioned adjusting some things, did that include the resevoir bolts when you reattached it? When I went to put mine back on the clip that one of the bolts attaches to had shifted. You might try loosening those two bolts to see if the resevoir will move a little, then retighten.

If there's any thread sticking out past the nut you could also just cut that off with a hacksaw.

If none of the above work, and it was my truck, I'd just put some double sided tape on the resevoir where the bolt makes contact and then just keep an eye on it whenever the resevoir needs filling. I doubt there's enough movement on either of those two parts for it to wear through.
I installed mine today and was able to get to the bolts through the engine bay without doing anything through the fender. I actually only did one in the center and between that and the other two larger bolts the head shield was on very solid and I didn't worry with any ties. All in all easy install...thanks for the tips!
AF-Medic said:
Nice write up. Im picture 13 that bolt is touching my windshielf fluid resovoir. I treid to adjust some things but it's still touchin. Anyone else have this problem or know if I did anything wrong? Truck runs great.
I'm with you AF medic...that bolt is touching my resevoir too but not enough to hurt anything
firulice said:
I'm with you AF medic...that bolt is touching my resevoir too but not enough to hurt anything
Touching here as well but there's not enough pressure or noise to worry.
Thanks for the post helped me out alot, didnt remove the washer bottle or the fender liner. Love the sound, but does the performance increase over time after the ecu adjusts?
5
uploading scanned images of the original instructions for those who need them...

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the rest of them....

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My wife is actually doing the install with your instruction
I have the Bruteforce in my truck too. Whats up with the gap where your intake runs into your box? I figured you didn't want any air coming in from your engine...
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