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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is the answer to all of the questions about the switchblade keys. Perhaps we can get a mod to make this a sticky... :coolsmile

Okay, here goes:


Step 1 - Gather stuff, remove guts.
First thing you need to do is disassemble one of your OEM keys. Use a flathead screw driver or key to pry open the OEM key and remove the inner button assembly. This should be straight forward.

View attachment 115122

Step 2 - Remove transponder.

Now you'll have to locate the transponder chip similar to below picture. If your car does not need the transponder chip to start, or if you have bypass that with third party alarm, you can jump to Step 3

View attachment 115123

The small transponder chip usually can be found on the side of your key. The red arrow/circle is where you will find the immobilizer chip. Remove that and carefully pry the chip out of the original key. It usually held on by some adhesive so a little force may have to be used, but be careful as the chip is encased in ceramic shell.
Fire up your heat gun/hair dryer and apply a little heat. Heat up casing to see if the chip will budge if it does slow pry it out, be careful not to damage it. If this doesn't work continue to work on other walls until you can pry the chip free. (You're done with the hardest part!)

View attachment 115124

Put it together with the OEM key with the transponder chip removed, taped it up with masking tape so that its holdable, keep the chip in a safe spot for now and go get the key copied.

Step 3 – Open up your fancy new key
To do so, you need to remove the three smallest screws from the faceplate of your new fob.
*** Before you open it up, get over a table or counter and slowly pull the two pieces of case apart. In side this portion of the key there are 3 loose components. (1) the key blade, (2) the key blade button, and (3) a small spring that is loaded to get the key blade to flip out. This will come flying out all over the place if you are not cautious. ***

View attachment 115125

Inside the new case you will see a small resistor looking thing, this is where you put your immobilizer chip.

View attachment 115126

Now you can take the switchblade key to locksmith and get a laser cut, it'll cost you $5-20 to get it cut properly and YOU DON’T NEED TO BRING IT TO DEALER SINCE THEY USUALLY CHARGE MORE!!!!
Step 4 - Transfer your old key's guts!

If you jump back to the first few steps, you removed the button assembly thing from your old key. Now is time to put that assembly into this new key. Transfer the transponder chip, buttons, keypad and board into the switchblade case. You can glue the transponder chip in the designated area of the switchblade case if you want. Just add a drop or two super glue and place it in and let it dry.
NOTE: You may have to trim some of the inner foam to get the "guts" to fit in the proper orientation.
Step 5 - Reassemble the switchblade case
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This might be a bit tricky if you don't know how the switchblade works.

a) Assemble the button, key, and spring. Assemble this to the side where the key fob buttons are and hold with your right hand with the buttons facing your palm so the key/spring/button don't fall out. (The actual key should be held by your fingers along side of the case, (Closed form)

b) Grab the other board, now join the two the two boards together by placing the bottom of the spring on the base with the battery (There's an insert for the bottom of the spring leg, fits only one way)

c) The key flips out counter clockwise so you'll need to rotate counter clockwise just once after you've seated the spring. Attach both sides together hold it firmly together with one hand.

d) Start screwing the case back together with the other hand. Make sure the all buttons work and the key flips out.

Step 6 - TEST your fancy new key.
Make sure the car starts. Make sure the lock/unlock works. Test the panic if you have an alarm. If everything works - put the stickers and call it a day. You're done.
*** Your switchblade case have come with the sticker to go on the back. Peel the sticky and place it on the back to cover up the hole for screws.***
 

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I got a extra one sitting around lol i don't think ill be using it. Don't have the time or patience.
 

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Did this last Monday. It took me a few hours total. (1 hour spent with the locksmith.) The hardest part was getting to the chip. After breaking out my wife's hair dryer and a couple of pliers, I was finally able to loosen the plastic enough to put a screw driver in between the key and the plastic. I grabbed the key by the long side of the plastic and kept squeezing until the plastic started to give, then I stopped! Don't keep squeezing, because that's where the chip is. After I got the plastic to compress, I then took a flathead screw driver and gently pounded it in the plastic using the key as a guide. Just be careful not to try and attack this thing from the sides as the chip is stored in the sides. Once I got the screw driver in, I pried the plastic off the key. I found the chip by tearing the rest of the plastic off. Just be careful that you don't damage the chip. Be careful ;-)

I also had a little difficulty getting the "ground" for the battery to sit in the proper place. I guess I finally figured it out, because my door continues to lock and unlock using the fob. I do have the keyless entry pad installed as back up. Love that thing!

My local locksmith charged me $15 to cut the key. Got the switch blade off Ebay for $18 shipped. All in all, $32 ain't bad for a key that I've been missing since I traded in my Volkswagen Jetta on the T.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Glad that you got it all taken care of bro. $33 isn't bad for a switchblade key. :) I had a Passat and loved the switchblade style key, so once I saw this, I had to jump on it.
 

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subbing to read later - caught a glimps before work and want it!!
 

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Subscribed, nice write up
 

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I have 2 questions; the first would be the easiest fix: can you just buy the switchblade blank and get it cut to match your existing key? Second, if #1 doesn't work, how do you go about fixing your existing key to the switchblade fob, I've read threw it a few times and seem to be missing something, maybe I need to cut my key apart to figure it out.
 

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I have 2 questions; the first would be the easiest fix: can you just buy the switchblade blank and get it cut to match your existing key? Second, if #1 doesn't work, how do you go about fixing your existing key to the switchblade fob, I've read threw it a few times and seem to be missing something, maybe I need to cut my key apart to figure it out.
Like he said, it comes with a key that you get cut at your local locksmith that is designed to flip out. You can't use a regular key, but you need an RFID chip in order for your truck to turn on. In order to get at the RFID chip, you have to tear apart your OEM key. If they sold a switchblade with an RFID, then you wouldn't need to tear apart your OEM key, but you'd spend a lot of money getting the new RFID to talk to your truck. I don't know if they sell one with an RFID chip.
 

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Pictures would help out tremendously y'all.
 

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I have an '04 LE with every option under the sun, except 4x4, :-(, I'm looking at my key and it doesn't look like there is a chip in it? Should there be? Am I just not looking at the right spot, or do I need to cut it apart to see it? Thanks for the help.
 

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I have an '04 LE with every option under the sun, except 4x4, :-(, I'm looking at my key and it doesn't look like there is a chip in it? Should there be? Am I just not looking at the right spot, or do I need to cut it apart to see it? Thanks for the help.
You may or may not. I don't know... For the earlier models, the truck would start up to 10 times without the chip before not starting. For my 2010, it wouldn't start. It would turn and the starter would crank, but no fire. Then I had to put the key with a chip in three times before it would start. What you can do before you tear into your OEM key is go get the switchblade key cut and try using it. Keep a spare key around for the first 10-15 starts. If the truck continues to start just fine, you're good to go. If it fails to start, then you'll have to perform the surgery on the key. I had a 2004 and the key was identical to my new 2010, so you can't tell simply by looking at it.
 

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Pictures would help out tremendously y'all.
Sorry :( I already tore mine up and threw it away. I didn't know SoCal was going to post this until I had already performed the procedure. Here's a picture of the switchblade, if that'll help.

The RFID Chip can be found in one of the two circled areas:



Here's the actual product. I'd rather not take it apart again as things going flying and you place a sticker over one of the screws that hold the thing together. The first post actually shows most of the pictures that you need. It just doesn't do a great job of showing where the RFID chip is located.



It's hard to tell, but the key is part of the mechanism and not like your OEM key. You can't do this with your OEM key. You have to use the key that comes with the device.

 

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I clearly skimmed and missed all the pics. My mistake.
 

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I got one off E-bay and my local dealer charged me $50 to cut and program it... If a locksmith is gonna charge you $20 just to cut it, you might as well just let the dealer do it and program it for you so that you don't have to gut your factory key or take apart the switchblade key. I now have both keys working just fine. Just another option.
 
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