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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, I tackled this little feat today, and though I would do a write-up with photos for those that are about to do the same thing. I would appreciate it if a moderator or staff member could make this a sticky for future reference! :teethmast

Anyhow - here we go!

You will need:

Wet cloth
Two hands
About 10 minutes of your time
Compressed air (optional and recommended)
Safety glasses (optional and recommended)
Machanics gloves (optional and recommended)


1. Locate the VCV Assy. It is located just above your rear axle, connected to your evaporative emission control (charcoal) canister on the drivers side of the vehicle.



2. Unhook the hose from VCV Assy., then unhook the hose from the upper frame mount and remove the hose completely. You will most likely notice dust and debris in both the hose and your VCV Assy.




3. Next, firmly twist VCV Assy. approximately 45 degrees counter clockwise, and pull from the canister. It may appear stuck, as the o-ring has set a seal inside of the canister.

4. Now, unhook the electrical connector from the VCV Assy. by firmly pulling while squeezing the electrical connector tab open. This may be harder than normal if you have a lot of dirt or debris built up in this area.



5. Now, locate your new VCV Assy. (Nissan Part # 14935-AM60B) and remove it from its package. Get your damp rag and moisten the o-ring and the orifice of the canister, making sure both connections are clean and free of debris.



6. Plug your new VCV Assy. into its electrical connector, then insert your new VCV Assy. into the canister the same way the old one was removed, by firmly pushing it in the orifice at a 45 degree angle and twisting clockwise until it is locked into place.



7. Now take your compressed air and blow through the breather hose you removed earlier. Also blow out the frame connection in order to blow out loose dust and debris which could be sucked into your new VCV Assy.

8. Once again, take your damp rag and clean the connections on the frame and VCV Assy. and plug the breather hose in the same way it was routed before removal.



You're done! Have a Beer! :redblob"
 

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Excellent write up, thanks for taking the time to do that.:)
 

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Stupid question, but why do you change this out with a new one? What is it's purpose, and is there a generic interval that should be followed?

Thanks for the post and pics regardless.
 

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Stupid question, but why do you change this out with a new one? What is it's purpose, and is there a generic interval that should be followed?
It's part of the emissions control system.
When it fails or is failing the ECU will throw a code (MIL* on).
Search here for "Gross EVAP Leak."
Mine was on its way out at about 70kmi. It'd throw the code, and sometimes it would eventually reset by itself and sometimes I'd reset it. It finally stayed on.
I pulled it, cleaned it, soaked in all manner of penetrants - nothing - it was toast. Naturally, right before state inspection time...

The valve is about $85.

I'm told they have a hard life due to the vent location in the frame rail, and there is an update that includes a filter to help avoid that - but I'm leery of a $100 filter to protect an $85 valve...

I plan to run my vent line to the left taillight housing, much as is done with the axle vent mod, although with much bigger hose...
_________________
*MIL is the official term - Malfunction Indicator Light,
AKA 'Service Engine Soon' and 'Check Engine' light.
 

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Great post. I am taking mine off and cleaning it as I type!

Zack
 

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Its also usually the culprit when you're trying to fill up and gas pukes all over you and you haven't even put a 1/4 tank of gas in. I did this on my 04 Titan and solved that problem, was a little tired of loosing money and smelling like gas, LOL.
 
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That is the correct part, but honestly I would go with the OEM in this case. Its up to you though.
Most likely last as long.. Since the OEM's upgrade includes a filter for 100 bones according to ArtechnikA. :huh:

Good write up Q.

L
 

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Most likely last as long.. Since the OEM's upgrade includes a filter for 100 bones according to ArtechnikA.
Did I say that?
I don't think so...
I said there is a $100 filter _available_ that can be installed in the vent line.

But there doesn't seem to be much evidence the filter actually extends the life of the valve, and I think it's strange that the filter (kit) is more than a spare valve...

I will be extending the vent line to get it out of the frame rail, although when I rinsed/soaked/cleaned mine out, I didn't see anything that looked like accumulated dust.

To recap - to do it the 'new, updated way' it's $85 for the valve, $100 for the filter. $85 seems a lot but I got 75k mi on the original. No way to know if the Dorman part is as good but for a few people to try it...
 

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I thought about adding some filter material stuffed into the side of the bed rail, on the driver-side for sure, to keep the dust and dirt from that tire out. I haven't looked at it very well to see if dirt could enter from any areas except the sides of the rail.

what say you?
 
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Well, I bought my Titan about two weeks ago, and it was throwing the Evap Ctrl code. So, I ordered a new valve from RockAuto, and did a little modding to install it.

Spectre breather filter for 1/2 breather tube: $9.99
5/8 to 1/2 Heater hose adapter: $3.29
4-pk of 3/16-5/8 band clamps: $2.99 (only need 2)
Reuse original breather hose



No more clogged valves.

 

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I've gotten this light twice now - both occasions were the morning after a 90+ degree day - and like 90% humidity on top of that - wonder if that is a coincidence
 

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Thanks to the OP - took exactly 10 minutes with the air blow out.
BTW - I used the Rockauto part 911503 (mfd. by Dorman)
Dorman warranties their parts for life...so if it goes bad again, I might be able to get a free valve out of them.
Saved me some $$$ and fit perfectly - works too!
 
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