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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I didn't drive the truck for two days, got in today and half way down the block I heard the "supercharger" sound again..crossed the street and parked into a parking lot. Volts were at the half way mark. So I turned off the truck, sat for a second, started it back up, no whine. Volts hung right at 3/8th on the meter. And the battery charging system light came on.

Sooo I'm off to take the alternator out of the Titan..

Don't do it. If you search you wont find much. Because this is for the dealers to handle...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
read my sexy strap thread. One of the last posts explains it.

Okay so I just got the alternator out.. took me 2.15 hours. A PITA. Seriously, the connector that connets into the alt is a PITA to get out, I had to break mine to get it out (some kinda sensor I suppose). The power cables, there is no room to unscrew them before you remove the item..I had to unbolt the ALT, which is just two screws. I was pulling and yanking on this thing so hard the truck was rocking sideways and up and down. After about 5 minutes of hitting it with a hammer, it finally got loose, and was still a PITA to get away from the bolt holes. Then I had to push it back to the oil pan just to unscrew the power cables. A PITA because you have very little room and because the thing is loose, it's hard to keep it in place so you can undo the bolts.

Then getting it out..I had to remove the idle pulley and it was still a tight squeeze. I then had to remove the power steering tank. Gave me just barley enough room to get it out.

I'm not even going to do a write up because seriously, it's simply too hard to do alone with basic set of tools and two hands. I'll be VERY pissed (already am) when I get back from the auto store and it's fine.....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well I got pretty pissed when taking the alt out.. so I tossed it on the ground and the housing broke in half. Took it to autopart store, they couldn't test it because I guess I broke it too much when i tossed it, locking the pully in place. $35 core charge so it was $172 OTD for a new alt. Should be here by 12pm tomorrow...
 

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Thanks for the advice, warnings are always helpful before one takes on a project. I'm one that usually does my own work and I have done quite a few alternators.

I have a Jetta VR6 that the engine is shoehorned into the bay and last year replaced the alternator. Same thing, removed like 10 other bolted on things just to make a little space to pull it out. Otherwise would have had to remove the front end (grill, bumper, cross brace, headlights...).
 

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Alternator Replacement:

1) Jack Up Truck
2) Remove Passenger Side Tire
3) Remove Passenger Side Wheel Well
4) Remove Skid Plate
5) Un-Bolt Alternator From Underneath
6) Remove Power Connectors Via Reaching Through The Inner Fenderwell
7) Extract Alternator From Below Near Lower Radiator Hose, it's tight and takes some pulling but it will come out here.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Dealership wants over $500.00 to change it.
 

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Alternator Replacement:

1) Jack Up Truck
2) Remove Passenger Side Tire
3) Remove Passenger Side Wheel Well
4) Remove Skid Plate
5) Un-Bolt Alternator From Underneath
6) Remove Power Connectors Via Reaching Through The Inner Fenderwell
7) Extract Alternator From Below Near Lower Radiator Hose, it's tight and takes some pulling but it will come out here.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Dealership wants over $500.00 to change it.
Thanks man, that is good info.

Adamdude, I changed my fan belt the other day and I noted the alternator location and said to myself "there is no way I would ever get that F'ing thing out should it go bad." Hopefully your re-install should be a little better.

Thanks,

Zack
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Alternator Replacement:

1) Jack Up Truck
2) Remove Passenger Side Tire
3) Remove Passenger Side Wheel Well
4) Remove Skid Plate
5) Un-Bolt Alternator From Underneath
6) Remove Power Connectors Via Reaching Through The Inner Fenderwell
7) Extract Alternator From Below Near Lower Radiator Hose, it's tight and takes some pulling but it will come out here.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Dealership wants over $500.00 to change it.

I don't even see how that would work. I turned my wheels giving me an opening in the fender area, removed the fenter..and the fender was too high and the area to remove the alternator per your instructions wouldn't fit.

Being that didn't seem possible, I then removed the power steering resivor and upper rad hose. This gave me a VERY tight squeeze.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just went outside to take a look at the position, and damn that does seem like a pretty tight spot. I then figured since im already out there why not go for a lap around the neighborhood, damn I love this truck.
Yeah it does suck..however at least I got the new one in there. It was easier however to force the Alt down into its area rather than trying to force it up and out of the truck.

But I took it for a nicel il drive today, volt meter is not wigging out like before, and truck isn't overheating nor is coolant overflowing into the overflow tank. It went from the MIN line to just a lil bit above the max line..checked it again 20 miles later, and it was back down the min line. So I'm leading to think the alt was locking up or creating too much force thus not turning the belt at correct speeds, thus causing the water pump to not function properly..causing my overflow/overheat issue. ...time will tell.
 

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When I put in my Active Tuning Grounding Kit I had a heck of a time just putting one of the leads on the back of the alternator. I can believe that removing/installing the alternator is a very difficult operation. At one point I had thought of putting in a higher output alternator but after seeing what I was up against I decided to just get a bigger battery.
 

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Well I got pretty pissed when taking the alt out.. so I tossed it on the ground and the housing broke in half. Took it to autopart store, they couldn't test it because I guess I broke it too much when i tossed it, locking the pully in place. $35 core charge so it was $172 OTD for a new alt. Should be here by 12pm tomorrow...
How not to change an alternator. . . .
 

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Mine is stock height, don't know if yours is lifted or not but Once I removed the inner fender I was able to access the connector with the help of a long screwdriver and release the clip/extract it... I remember beating my head against a tree trying to figure it out and when I removed the inner fender I could suddenly reach it. There was no way I could take it out from the top (well without removing the items you had to) coming out the bottom was tight but much easier imo.
 

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truck isn't overheating nor is coolant overflowing into the overflow tank. .

Didn't we have this discussion (you and I ) already about your cap, about the proper cap and how the system works on the Titan? How the coolant is supposed to flow thru the reservoir all the time when running and how that stops the air build or lack of coolatn up you had in your radiator?
 

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I just removed my alternator from my '04 to get it tested. Although I didn't take the wheel or wheel well off, I did peel it back to get the connectors off. The two wire one is a total PITA but I got it finally. I also barely wedged it out of from under the truck so I think when I reinstall the new one I'll take the sway bar off. Anyone know the torque specs on the sway bar bolts?
 

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Im trying to replace the alt but having problem with the 14mm top bolt. was wondering did u guys have that problem cause i cant get mine out. it spins and when i tighten it, it tightens. info would help how u guys did it.
thank you
 

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Alternator Replacement:

1) Jack Up Truck
2) Remove Passenger Side Tire
3) Remove Passenger Side Wheel Well
4) Remove Skid Plate
5) Un-Bolt Alternator From Underneath
6) Remove Power Connectors Via Reaching Through The Inner Fenderwell
7) Extract Alternator From Below Near Lower Radiator Hose, it's tight and takes some pulling but it will come out here.

Installation is the reverse of removal.
Ok this was a biotch to take out. had problem with the top 14mm bolt. bad bolt from dirt. had to remove powersteering and set it aside dangling with the hoses. I used a vicegrip clamp and pitchfork and hammered the fock away to get the bolt out. because the pitchfork wasn't fat enough for the bolt so i use a vicegrip to sub for length of bolt. then I couldnt get the alt from the bottom so i unbolt all the 14mm bolt alt bracket and took it out from side wall.
 

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Alternator Replacement:

1) Jack Up Truck
2) Remove Passenger Side Tire
3) Remove Passenger Side Wheel Well
4) Remove Skid Plate
5) Un-Bolt Alternator From Underneath
6) Remove Power Connectors Via Reaching Through The Inner Fenderwell
7) Extract Alternator From Below Near Lower Radiator Hose, it's tight and takes some pulling but it will come out here.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Dealership wants over $500.00 to change it.
My auto mechanic wanted $495, so I thought I would give it a try. You can't go out the front because the fan shroud/ radiator shroud is in the way. I don't know how you did it. I went out the back way but I had to remove 1 power steering line and hold my thumb over the hole to stop the oil from leaking.
 

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Don't let this thread discourage you. It takes more time to jack it up and remove the skid plate, tire, wheel well and fan belt than the alternator. There is space to flip the unbolted alternator, point the pulley toward the rear of the truck, and slide it past the steering rack into the wheel well. It helps to be positioned under it with good lighting and you can see how to turn it to clear everything.

A trick for the tensioner on the belt is use a short ratchet to unload it a little and slide an 18 inch pipe over the ratchet handle to push on while you position the belt.

This job must be done from several locations, all underneath.
 
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