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Discussion Starter #1
Got quoted this from a shop to replace ignition switch:

Replacing Ignition lock, keys, and steering lock/ignition switch replacement all parts and labor. Est. $1118.99 + Tax.

Replace Steering lock and key's installed parts and labor would be Est. $457.70 + Tax.

Replace Steering lock/ignition switch replacement parts and labor would run you Est. $712.81 + Tax.

Seems PAINFUL!!!!!!!!!!! This little problem came out of nowhere.

I don't have any mechanical skills or electric skills. I've replaced a tow mirror, and window motor...that's about it. Can I tackle a ignition switch? Would hate to F things up worse than they already are.


Anyone have a diagram? Tips? Maybe I don't need to replace it?


Thanks fellas
 

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Ignition lock cylinder OEM part# D87005Z00J price 164.42 looking for diagram as well. What's it doing?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Copy and pasted from my other thread:

Problem:

Truck won't shut off. I can turn the key all the way off and pull it out...truck still runs. The accessories turn off. The little truck/key/lock red light on the dash stays on the whole time. I turn it off by unhooking the negative battery cable and unhooking the IDPM.

After shutting it off by the battery and unhooking the IDPM.....I connect everything back together and the truck goes to the same mode as if you were to put the key in and turn it once. So it seems like it is stuck.
 

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1. Locate your battery.

2. Touch the ground side probe of the DMM to the negative battery post and the power side probe of the DMM to the positive battery post with the vehicle running.
3. Locate your ignition switch.

4. Gain access to the wiring behind the ignition switch.

5. Touch the ground side probe of the DMM to a good known ground (such as an unpainted screw to the body frame or door hinge bolt).

6. Back probe the power side probe of the DMM to the wire that connects the ignition switch to the fuse in the START position.

7. Read the current voltage reading on the DMM. You should have full battery voltage running through the ignition switch at this time. A significant drop (a reading such as 10 Volts or lower) would indicate high resistance in the ignition switch.

8. Turn the car off.

9. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

10. Remove any screws holding the body of the switch to the steering column.

11. Disconnect the wiring harness from the ignition switch.

12. Replace with new switch.

13. Reverse procedure for installation (connecting the battery cables last), test that the key rotates properly in all positions and that the car starts to verify your repairs.

-still have this on my document. I had to replace my ignition switch last month so I copied that from car repair. Try to check for other "how to",because that one is a general instruction "how to"(I chose that for the picture illustrations).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks.

i might need pics with this, I'm finding it a bit confusing. Probably would be ok but messing with the battery and a running vehicle...not sure I trust myself to not be 100% sure.

I really appreciate all the diagrams and will come in handy!
 

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Thanks.

i might need pics with this, I'm finding it a bit confusing. Probably would be ok but messing with the battery and a running vehicle...not sure I trust myself to not be 100% sure.

I really appreciate all the diagrams and will come in handy!
forgot to place the link,look for how to replace an ignition switch there.. for me,it's a moderate job..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Waiting on the part to arrive.

Update on the problem. It decided to shut off a couple times out of nowhere.
But then 5 minutes later after shutting off it turned on. The engine did not turn on, but it basically went to the aux position. When it goes to the Aux position the radio does not turn on, but the chime turns on, some lights on the dash turn on, etc.

Does that still sound like an ignition switch problem?

It just seems like it wants to stay in the on position. Not sure how it would go from off to on by itself?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
:bump:
Waiting on the part to arrive.

Update on the problem. It decided to shut off a couple times out of nowhere.
But then 5 minutes later after shutting off it turned on. The engine did not turn on, but it basically went to the aux position. When it goes to the Aux position the radio does not turn on, but the chime turns on, some lights on the dash turn on, etc.

Does that still sound like an ignition switch problem?

It just seems like it wants to stay in the on position. Not sure how it would go from off to on by itself?
bump
:bump:
 

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Yup, I think so, don't hold me to it, but I would say I am 90% sure your issue is in the ignition switch and replacing it would resolve your problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yup, I think so, don't hold me to it, but I would say I am 90% sure your issue is in the ignition switch and replacing it would resolve your problems.
Won't hold you to it! :)

Truck won't even start now!!! I tried jumping it, it's got gas, lights all turn on, it turns over, but it just won't fire up. :bangit: HUMMBUGGG :bangit:
 

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Have you replaced the IPDM relay? That is now an OFFICIAL Nissan recall! Dealership should switch the IPDM out for free. I still think you have an ignition switch issue since the truck was not turning off.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Have you replaced the IPDM relay? That is now an OFFICIAL Nissan recall! Dealership should switch the IPDM out for free. I still think you have an ignition switch issue since the truck was not turning off.
I haven't replaced it. I did swap it with the fog light relay.


Waiting for the ignition switch to get here!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I just realized something...are these ignition switches universal in terms of the truck shifting being in the center console or on the wheel?
 

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I just realized something...are these ignition switches universal in terms of the truck shifting being in the center console or on the wheel?
:dunno: I am not sure.
 

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Sounds to me like you have a short in your ignition switch.
Or a relay in the ignition system that energizes and does not disconnect.

Calling BaseBallfanz.
Calling BaseBallfanz.

Then again.
The key shouldn't come out of the cylinder like that.
That tells me that the pins in the back of the switch aren't getting turned correctly.
I think we have a pin problem based on the lock cylinder.

A lock cylinder for a Ford is cheap and easy to change. Can't see why the Titan would be too much different.

Has your truck ever been stolen?
Any idea how the switch got knackered?
It's a switch problem.
 
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