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Discussion Starter #1
Well guys, the day is finally here... After a couple of months of picking a piece up here and there and watching out for deals, with the arrival of all of my wiring today, I have everything for my install this weekend (I think, never works that way!)

Here's what is going in my CC this weekend: (I've been updating this list on here occasionally, so some have seen it)

HU: JVC AVX800 Double Din DVD + Terk XM unit

Amps: Rockford P3001 (Sub Amp)
Rockford P5002 (Front Stage)

Sub: Memphis MC 10 in a Single Driver Side Tech12volt box

Front Stage:CDT ES620 mids and ES-100 tweets - TW19 Upstage Kit

Rear Fill: CDT CL-61a's (run 8ohm mono off P5002)

Stinger Wiring - (power, RCA's, etc)

125 Sq Ft of RAAMmat BXT, 6 yards of Ensolite Foam

I'm hoping to get it all done this weekend, but the sound deadening process seems like it may take a while.

I've done a few installs in my previous vehicles, and I plan to have my brother helping (whose done a few more than me). Any tips on working with the sound deadener? Also, any tricky panels in the Titan that would help to know about in advance? I've seen some pics on drilling the passenger side floorboard for the power wire, think I'm going that route. Amps will more than likely end up under the seats. Haven't complete decided on where the passive crossovers for the comps are going.

I've read up quite a bit on the airbag issue, which kinda freaks me out, but I'll just try and be extra careful.

I'm going to be sure and take pics this time, somehow I always forget to do that...

I've never run an amp tri-mode before, so I'm hoping it won't cause an issue (stereo to front comps, gonna series the rear comps to run 8 ohm mono) If it doesn't work I have an old PPI275 (the cool old grey ones) to run on the rear, or I may just ditch the whole rear fill idea.

Well, wish me luck...

Thanks for all your advice in the past guys.

Chad
 

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If I were you I'd run an extra RCA cable from your head unit to wherever you are going to mount your amps. I think that you will not like having the rear speakers hooked up to the same amp as your fronts only because they could seem louder. Due to the fact that you have no fade control or gain adjustments you will be stuck with it that way. I'd either run an extra RCA and hook it up to your rear ch on the HU or run some speaker wire direct to the crossovers from the HU. This will prevent you from having to take your interior and dash apart if you are not satisfied with how it sounds. Personally I'd do the extra amp. That will give you the most control and make those comps sound better than the HU could.

Taking the truck apart is easy, just make sure you go search and bookmark a few pages that show how others took their trucks apart or how things look with panels off. This will save you time from searching later.

I'd focus on removing the interior and getting all the mat installed and wires run before I dug into the doors. For the time being you can leave a bunch of wire coiled up (unhooked) under your floor matts. It will take you a lot more time than expected to install everything. After you get the inside all matted and foamed put it back together and then take your doors apart. I say to do this because you can always work on those last and they will take you the least ammount of time to put them back together if you need your truck the next day. You can also do one at a time or do them the following weekend if need be.

Other than that, good luck, its pretty easy just take your time taking panels off until you know how they go, one other suggestion I have is if you havent already go pickup some hardware to make sure you can mount the new baffles to the doors.
 

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I'm doing a similar install right now myself. Same AVX800 deck, with the JVC Sirius tuner, and Bluetooth kit. Also am adding a 120GB portable HD to cay the tunes on.

I'm putting my 2 Sundown amps, 5F Stiner Cap (Thanks Tech12Volt), and 4 crossovers on the rear wall ('04 no power rear slider).

I started last weekend, and here is what I would say time wise so far.

For the doors (which is what I'm still working on). By the time you pull the panels, unhook the window switch, unhook the handle (just turn the door lock sideways and fish thru its hole), remove the plastic door seal, clean the door for matting, apply mad to door skin, apply mat to instide wall of door, glue on foam, cut out places for orange door clips to go back into, take the speaker out, build a baffle, mount woofer to baffle, fish speaker wires through door grommets, then put it all back togther, you'll have spent a good 4-6 hours.

I'm figuring this as a 3 weekend job, with some late weeknight work as well.

:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Very cool BigK.... The more I think about it, I'm definitely going to take my time and not rush it through, if I don't get it done, no biggie, I'll just finish it up the next weekend.

I'm definitely also going to go ahead and run a USB cable to the center console so I can use a USB HDD.

I've done a little bit of searching, and found that the max load for 4 gauge power wire should be 135 amps, however the 4 gauge Stinger wire kit I got comes with 150 amp fuse.... What's the deal with that? My two rockford amps are fused at 60 amps each, realizing they probably won't ever pull close to that, you guys think its safe to run the 2 rockfords and that possible PPI275 off that 4 gauge wire?

I figure if that mono amps puts out about 400watts, the 5002 at 4 ohm stereo probably 350 total, and the PPI 275 maybe 200 total, at 14v's that's what... 950 watts/14v= 68 amps as the normal current draw? Or am I just totally off? If I fuse that power wire at 120 (less than the max amp rating for the power wire, but less than max fuse rating on the amplifiers) am I going to be blowing fuses all day? I realize the important part is to protect the vehicle, so I definitely don't want to exceed the 135 amps on the fuse at the battery?

I feel stupid. But I would rather feel it, than actually be it by burning my truck down.

Thanks,
Chad
 

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One bit of advice that will make the install better and faster, hide the beer, lol.
 

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my advice is take it one step at a time and plan it. This way you do not run your power wire and cables and then remember you needed 6 rcas instaed of 4 .And if you get in over your head stop. If you get pissed running wires stop and take a break.
 

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There are a few online calculators for wire awg

You are probably ok up to 1000w with 4ga. I went with 1/0 and a 5farad stinger cap from tech12volt. I will have 1000w going to the subs and 450 to the components.
 

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I'm wanting to get some subs for my 04 kc but I don't know what to do? I know what I want but I don't think they will fit. I was going to try and put some powerbass extreme 2 12" subs in it under the seat but the mounting depth is 6.75 inches and I don't think they will fit. Audioenhancers makes a box with a 6.75 mounting depth and they use 3/4" MDF. I was thinking that if I use 1/2" birch that I may be able to get them crammed under the seat. The Subs are at Powerbassusa.com. Let me know what u think. I'm just trying to get as much SPL as possible with something that will fit under my seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
A little update and some impressions about the install...

You guys called it right, no way to finish it up last weekend. This is what we did get done:

Matted and foamed the entire interior, save for the headliner.
Installed the rear components, made baffles, etc.
Ran the power wire

Doesn't sound like much does it? I would say that was about 15 hours total of work.....

On tap for this weekend is installing the front comps, installing the head unit, and the amplifiers.

The interior removal wasn't that bad, but putting down all the mat was kinda a pita. The foam is easy to work with, especially if you use scissors instead of a dull *** razor knife.

I started taking pics, but as usual I got busy with what I was doing and forgot....

After thinking more about the front stage, I think I want to mount the tweeters over the mids, like the braxial mount that CDT sells. I may just use some wiring strap and fashion my own braxial mount. This would then allow me to mount the upstage kit in the factory location...

I'm definitely going ahead and running 3 sets of RCA's to the back, in case I want to put that PPI amp on the rears. I need to pickup a USB cable as well.

Well that's it, thanks for the input guys...

Chad
 

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HAHA sweet man, for some reason your install sounds a lot like mine :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
It's Done!

Got it all finished up last night, I would say about 35 hours total for the install.

Some initial impressions:

WOW! Truck is much quieter with all the deadener and foam. Its hard to describe, but I feel this was definitely worth it.

The components are LOUD! I've had numerous systems in the past, I was a big bass head in the 90's, so I've never actually put this kind of power and decent components in a system before. I'm really happy thus far with the way the components sound, I mounted the main tweeters down low near the mids, and then the upstage kit in the factory location. I can't say enough about the impact I think deadening the doors and sealing everything up on the midbass performance of the comps.

As I mentioned, I'm used to a lot of bass. Maybe I had unrealistic expectations of what a single 10" could do. I'm going to give it a little time, check over all the connections and the box, but I think I'm going to have to get a little more bass out of the system. Maybe Tech can chime in and give me some advice, I think I may want to go with one of those other setups he has done with the ported box, or two 10's. I'm kinda wondering if its the Rockford amp, but it should be pretty solid at I'm guessing about 375-400 watts RMS.

The Headunit is really cool, like I said I'm still trying to figure everything out, need to tune a little bit, but I'm really impressed with the unit so far. I'll have to take some pics this week of the finished install, its raining out right now or I would take some.... Headunit sticks out a little, but its not bad at all.

I would like to say thanks to everyone on the site, you guys gave me a lot of ideas and advice.

Thanks,
Chad
 

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XterraChad said:
It's Done!

Got it all finished up last night, I would say about 35 hours total for the install.

Some initial impressions:

WOW! Truck is much quieter with all the deadener and foam. Its hard to describe, but I feel this was definitely worth it.

The components are LOUD! I've had numerous systems in the past, I was a big bass head in the 90's, so I've never actually put this kind of power and decent components in a system before. I'm really happy thus far with the way the components sound, I mounted the main tweeters down low near the mids, and then the upstage kit in the factory location. I can't say enough about the impact I think deadening the doors and sealing everything up on the midbass performance of the comps.

As I mentioned, I'm used to a lot of bass. Maybe I had unrealistic expectations of what a single 10" could do. I'm going to give it a little time, check over all the connections and the box, but I think I'm going to have to get a little more bass out of the system. Maybe Tech can chime in and give me some advice, I think I may want to go with one of those other setups he has done with the ported box, or two 10's. I'm kinda wondering if its the Rockford amp, but it should be pretty solid at I'm guessing about 375-400 watts RMS.

The Headunit is really cool, like I said I'm still trying to figure everything out, need to tune a little bit, but I'm really impressed with the unit so far. I'll have to take some pics this week of the finished install, its raining out right now or I would take some.... Headunit sticks out a little, but its not bad at all.

I would like to say thanks to everyone on the site, you guys gave me a lot of ideas and advice.

Thanks,
Chad
Check the phase of the sub. try wiring it out phase. Memphis subs upfiring alot of times need to be wired 180 degrees out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
tech12volt said:
Check the phase of the sub. try wiring it out phase. Memphis subs upfiring alot of times need to be wired 180 degrees out.
10-4, I'll try and do that tomorrow after work. I'll give you a call once I have a little time to play with it some more....Thanks Tech.
 

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Awesome Chad, I'm glad it worked out for you. The Rammat is good stuff for the money and everyone knows I love the CDT stuff.

Glad you went for the upstage kit, it does make a difference.

So did you take any pics of the "braxial" mount that you made for the tweeters down low?
 
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