Nissan Titan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
92,353 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For those of you who may be interested, the following pictures show the process of installing the
SAW front coilovers, PRG UCA’s, new camber adjusting bolts, rear SAW’s, rear lift blocks, and the
PRG traction bars. You may not need all this information, or your parts may be different,
but the installation of similar items is done the same way, regardless of the brand.
It should be noted that my truck is a 4x4, but 4x2 installation is similar.




You can use string and a plumb bob, make marks on the floor where your front tires are, and make
the appropriate measurements to reset the toe-in of the front tires after you install this suspension,
but I didn’t bother as I knew I’d be taking it directly to an alignment
shop afterwards.

Loosen and remove the sway bar endlink nuts while the truck is on the ground. This will make
removal of the front coilovers a lot easier later on.




The first thing is to install the new camber adjusting bolts. This may not be necessary, and both times the
front suspension has been modified, the only adjustment required was a toe adjustment. FYI, I put the PRG
leveling kit on first, and then made this suspension modification. I decided that since I’m tearing the front
end apart, I would install these so any future adjustments were possible if necessary. Also note that I left
the PRG bumpstops in place to accommodate the new suspension as well.

This picture shows the stock lower control arms and the bolts. There are two bolts in each arm, with the
bolts entering from the rear and the nuts towards the front of the truck. You will want to replace them in this
orientation. For reference, this picture is viewed from behind the passenger front tire, looking toward the front of the truck.




To install the new bolts, block in front and behind the rear tires and make sure the steering wheel is straight.
You may want to take a reference measurement of the stock ride height prior to doing any suspension work.
Just measure from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender and write the measurement down.

Next, since you already parked your truck on a firm, level surface, jack the front of the truck up and put it
on jackstands. Here are the jacking points and the position of the jackstands on the frame.




Remove the existing lower control arm bolts one at a time, making sure to install the new cambolts in the same
orientation. Torque the new cambolts to 98 FT.-LB.






Remove the front tires. This is about what you should see.




To get to the stock upper control arm bolts, it will be easier if you remove the wheelwell liners. There is a liner
flap that is in the way of the upper bolts.




Remove the front wheelwell liners. There are 6 phillips head screws and 6 push fasteners. Removal of the push
fasteners is done with a small screwdriver.




This is a picture of the front passenger side with the wheelwell liner removed.






Note that the wiring harness clip must be opened and the harness moved out of the way to get to the front UCA bolt.
Then remove the cotter pin in the upper ball joint nut. Loosen the nut approximately 1/2 inch and hit the UCA
with a mallot or 4 lb. hand sledgehammer. The spindle should drop down from the UCA. Place an additional floorjack
under the bottom of the spindle to support it when the upper nut is released.




Make sure to tie the spindle up so there is no tension on the brake hoses that go to the brake caliper.




Remove the upper control arm by unbolting the top two bolts. This is a picture of the stock upper control arm removed.




Using a 14mm wrench or socket, remove the three nuts from the top of the OEM spring hat above the coilbucket.




Using a 19mm wrench or socket, remove the bolt and nut from the lower shock mount. Remove the entire shock
assembly from the truck. Remember to save the lower shock mount bolt and nut.




Note: The PRG leveling spacer is NOT to be used in conjunction with this coilover setup. It must be removed
and discarded (resold to the highest bidder). The hardware, bumpstops and instructions you see in the first
picture in this write-up are the PRG Leveling Resale Kit Greg provides. It includes all the hardware and new
bumpstops so the only re-used component to the lucky recipient of your used kit is the spacers themselves.


To install the new PRG UCA, put the spacer in the two upper end heim joints as shown.






Reinstall using the stock hardware. Torque the upper bolts to 110 FT.-LB.




Note that on the driver’s side of the truck, you will need to remove the bolts that hold the brake line brackets to the frame.
Additionally, there is not enough room at the rear bolt to get a socket on the nut due to the steering knuckle. You will
need to double wrench these bolts off and back on.






To install the new SAW’s, remove the upper shock mount from the shock assembly and attach it to the top of the
coilbucket. The notches face toward the engine (on both sides). Using the PRG supplied 3/8” bolts, lock washers,
and nuts, attach the new spring hat with the spacer under the coilbucket, lock washers on bolt with head coming
up from the bottom. Put the other lockwashers and nuts on the top and torque to 50 FT.-LB.




Take the allenhead bolt that came installed in the SAW’s and throw it away… or into your “spare parts tray”. Using
the new, shorter length allenhead bolt that PRG provides, put the new shock up through the shock hat and fasten
the allenhead bolt through the top of the shock. Note: the Schrader valve should be facing OUT after installation.




In the photo above, note that the longer spacer is toward the rear of the lower shock mount. This is for additional
clearance from the axle. Also, note that the coilovers DON’T come assembled that way, so you need to reverse the spacers.

Torque the upper bolt (allenhead bolt) to 85 FT.-LB.

Torque the lower bolt (re-used stock bolt) to 85 FT.-LB. using a 19mm wrench and socket.

Now, swing the new UCA down and reattach to the front spindle with the new hardware provided by PRG.
The bolt goes in from the top, then the upper spacer and the lower spacer goes under the heim joint and finally the nut.




This nut should be torqued to 58 FT.-LB. with a 19mm socket and wrench. Check for clearance of the new shocks
with the rest of the front-end components. Turn the wheel back and forth full lock to assure no binding or fitment
problems. On 4x4’s, make sure the lower shock cap clears the axle of the driveshaft.

Before reinstalling the tires, give all fasteners a double-check and make sure you’ve reattached all the wiring harnesses,
clamps, brackets, etc.

You may also want to put some preload into the front shocks prior to mounting the tires. Loosen the setscrew in
the lower cap and turn the shock base using the supplied spanner wrench. Lube the threads to ease rotation of the
shaft and turn until you have the desired height. There is enough spring tension so the setscrew is not really necessary.
It was recommended to leave the setscrew out since the caps should not turn on their own, and if the threads of
the setscrew get messed up, there’s literally no way to readjust the shocks.

Note:

Maximum amount of lift recommended for a 2WD (4x2) is 3”

Maximum amount of lift recommended for a 4WD (4x4) is 2.5”


The distance from the adjuster nut to the top of the cap (amount of thread showing) should be no more than 2”.




Replace the wheelwell liners and wheels. Put the truck down on the level surface and check the ride height.
If the height needs to be adjusted, jack the truck so the weight is off the wheels and adjust as necessary.

With the truck on the ground, reattach the sway bar endlinks and tighten the nuts to 62 FT.-LB.








For the rear, all modifications were done at once. Rear shocks, lift blocks, and traction bar brackets.

Block the front wheels. Remove the rear shock absorbers by unbolting the bottom and then the top of the shocks.




Working only one side at a time, remove the lower shackle u-bolts.




Put a jack under the frame (use a block of wood on the jack to prevent damage to the frame) in front of the rear
tire on the side you are working and lift the truck and spring up off the axle enough to slip the lift block in. The pin
goes down into the spring perch on the axle and the spring has a pin that fits into the hole in the top of the spacer.




Lower the truck onto the spacer. You may need to use a pry bar to get the pin aligned with the hole in the spacer.




Put the new traction bar rear mounting bracket under the axle and attach the longer u-bolts over the spring hat
and through the holes in the bracket.




Make sure not to pinch any brake lines or cables between the u-bolts and the axle. It is also important that all the
bolts protrude through the bracket the same amount. This ensures proper positioning of the sway bars that will
be added to the rear later.




Torque the u-bolts to 75 FT.-LB. You will need to retorque these bolts after driving for some time. Do the same to the other side.

With the truck on the ground (not on the jack or jackstands) put the new shocks in starting with the top bolt.
The reservoir should face away from the axle on each side, so one will face front, the other will face rearward.
There are spacers for these shocks similar to what were supplied for the front shocks. Make sure the wider set of
spacers is on the bottom of the shock and the narrower set is on the top. Otherwise, the shocks won’t fit into the shock mounts.




Torque the upper and lower shock bolts to 110 FT.-LB.




To attach the PRG Traction Bars, the truck must be setting on firm level ground. Bolt the traction bars into the rear mounting bracket.






Adjust the front torsion bar heim joint so half the threads are showing on the threaded shaft and tighten
the adjuster nut finger tight.

Put the bolt through the front bracket and the heim joint.

Locate the bracket against the frame and mark the location with a pencil or marker.

Lower the bracket and grind the paint off the frame of the truck either side of the locating marks, where the
front bracket is to be welded to the frame. Remark the frame where the bracket is to be welded if the
marks were removed during the grinding.

It is easier with a lift or hydraulic jack when welding, but not completely necessary. Remove the bolt
from the front bracket and heim joint. Locate the bracket against the frame rail and tack weld it into place.
Double check the location by rotating the bar back up and bolting through the bracket and heim joint.

Once assured that the position is correct, remove the bolt, lower the traction bar and weld the front bracket
to the frame rail as shown in the photos below.






Allow the welds to cool sufficiently, lightly sand the area and apply primer and finish paint as required to protect
the exposed bracket and frame steel from corrosion.

Finally, bolt through the front mounting bracket and heim joint and torque the front bolts to 60 FT-LB. Torque the rear
mounting bolts to 80 FT-LB as well.


The finished installation should look like this:






Once again, double-check all the bolt torques and take it for a test drive.

The front UCA heim joints may clunk a bit when driving. This translates through the frame into the floor of the truck
and seems like a major issue. However, it is the heim joints releasing the built-up energy against the seals. All that is
required is to lubricate the upper heims with a bit of WD-40 or light penetrating oil. Don’t use motor oil or bearing
or axle grease. Allow the penetrant to soak for a bit before driving it. I let it sit for an hour, then drove it. The clunk soon
subsided somewhat. Upon return home, I sprayed it again and let it sit overnight. From the very first turn, the
following morning, all evidence of this clunk was gone. This may need to be done occasionally as the need arises.
Also, don’t forget to double-check all your bolt torques after driving for a short time.



Please note, some portions of the installation instructions are reproduced from PRG Products. Always refer to
your provided instructions and use this as a secondary guideline if necessary.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
27,783 Posts
Nice write up!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
NICE write up! Thank you very much.


BTY I hate you! You are forcing me to spend my tax return on this! Hey how bout a review on:

How different is the ride?

How long did it take you?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
92,353 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Well, the ride quality is a LOT better. There's just no comparison to the stockers. You would not believe the difference... First impression when driving it after the install: "Man, now it feels like a badass Cadillac!" :lol:

Timing? We started around 9:30 or so.... minus lunch.... minus dinner.... done around 9:00 that night. I'd say it's a good 8 hours of work. Now that's a "novice" time. I'm sure mechanics or Greg can do it in around 3 hours.

Nice thing is, no exotic tools are required. Just basic tools, wrenches, sockets (deep ones in a few spots) screwdrivers, torque wrench, jack, jackstands, etc.... Nothing the typical guy doesn't have in his toolbox.

It's a fun installation, that's for sure, and the results, well, they speak for themselves.


With stock rears & fronts with 2" PRG spacer



With front and rear SAWs



With stock rears & fronts with 2" PRG spacer



With front and rear SAWs










 

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
Now I know I can do this when I finally order my kit from Greg, the pictures are excellent and just what I needed.

Thanks for the write up!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,143 Posts
Yes, it is a GREAT write up (I know I used it for my installation). One question BB, how are the PRG rear traction bars? Do they make that big of a difference? What is their purpose? I might have to pick some of these up.:cheers:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
92,353 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The traction bars made a big difference in several ways.

Firstly, they eliminate the axle wrap. Now, I'm not a dragracer, but when coming to a quick stop, like when a traffic light unexpectedly turns yellow, and you have to whoa it down pretty quick, it builds up some tension in the rear springs. Then when you take off once it turns green, it felt like the rearend had slid backward or something. That's the axle wrap. Well, it's GONE! The traction bars take any stress and deliver it right into the frame instead of into the springs, which shouldn't really have to deal with it.

Secondly, it corners better. It almost feels like I've got a rear sway bar on it now. I noticed this right away, and oddly enough, so did my passenger. It's more "point and shoot" now. There's no wander or loping and the side-to-side motion is all but eliminated. I think the truck stays more level around corners and that's translating into what I feel.

Third, as I said the sidesway seems to have gone away. You know how you rock side to side when you come out of a parking lot and cross that little raised dropcurb at an angle? You and your passenger slap your shoulders off the windows? Well, that's GONE! All you feel is a little vertical drop when you go over it now. No more swaying and rocking.

All in all, I really like how the traction bars make the truck ride and drive. It's a lot more direct control now and I don't think I even need a rear sway bar now. It's allowing the springs to do their job and the new shocks to do theirs... without having to make them multitask.

Well worth it IMO. :thumbsup:

(Thanks again, Greg!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
336 Posts
Great writeup, BB!

Helped a lot on my install. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
great write up just one question tho, when installing the spring hat you said

"Take the allenhead bolt that came installed in the SAW’s and throw it away… or into your “spare parts tray”. Using
the new, shorter length allenhead bolt that PRG provides, put the new shock up through the shock hat and fasten
the allenhead bolt through the top of the shock. Note: the Schrader valve should be facing OUT after installation."

why cant i use the bolt that originally came with the coil overs?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
92,353 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
It is too long and will bottom out before it is tight. Greg supplies a slightly shorter one when he ships out the Titan spec'd SAWs, so use that one instead of the longer one. Otherwise, you will have a "clunk" on the front end you won't be able to explain or figure out, because as far as you'll know, everything will be tight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
alright well i literally just got my 4" performance kit from greg yesterday and he didn't send any other allen head bolts other than the ones that where in the coil overs when it came? how do i know if its too long?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
92,353 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Call him. He may have already switched them out with the shorter ones when he packaged your kit. Better to be sure than to guess.


Wait... I just went out to the garage and measured the long ones. Without the head, the shaft and threads are 3 1/8" long. I believe the one Greg supplies is about 3/8" shorter so the shaft and threads should be 2 3/4" long. Just take one out and measure it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
yea the ones i got in there now are about 3 1/8" without the head..

i dont understand how it will bottom out ? it seems like it will cause no problem
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
92,353 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
IIRC, the hats are not through-bolted. So the bolt will hit the bottom of the tapped hole before it's tight, I believe. Definitely call Greg in the morning. He'll get the new bolts out to you quick, I'm sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
thanks for the walk through on the install, the lift came out real nice here are some pics,
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Just finished up my install today. Driverside front kicked our a$$, we weren't really paying attention to any directions and ended up doing some unnecessary steps. We flew through the rest of the install though, passenger side shock and uca and rear shock and block took only about 2 hrs. Thanks BB for detailed instructions and pics, they definately helped me out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,690 Posts
Hows the ride? Were you surprised at all with the ride?
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top