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Discussion Starter #1
How difficult is this install? I know the coil-over is simple and straight forward, not sure about the TC arm.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I can do it in my garage by myself? I did the leveling kit there by myself.
 

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Absolutely. Depending on where you buy them you might be able to sweet talk the seller into installing the zirc(sp?) fittings for you. If you do not have a tap and die set this would be a great help to you. Passenger side is easier than the driver side as the nuts and bolts are a little more difficult to get to on the drivers side. Some wrenches, sockets, hammer, and a dremel is about all you need to do it.

1. Jack up vehicle and remove wheel.
2. Use some type of tie down or rope to tie the spindle in place so it doesn't flop all around when you pop the ball joint.
3. Remove cotter pin on bottom of upper ball joint and loosen nut to the point where it is still on the ball joint by a few threads.
4. Strike spindle with hammer to get ball joint to pop. (Do not hit or pry the ball joint itself)
5. Remove nuts and bolts from stock upper a-arm. It should now come out.
6. Inside the mounts on the truck where the a-arm fits into there are a couple small tabs pressed into the metal. Using a dremel or some other grinding device grind them down flat. Some claim they have installed theirs without doing this. I did it. You may also need to slightly bend the mounts out for the new TC arms. On the driver side I had to remove a little material from the TC arm bushings on one side to get it to go in, it was a VERY SMALL amount removed with a dremel. Also had to unbolt a bracket holding some brake lines on the drivers side, I think it was so I could get the bolt out/back in.
7. Place TC arm inside mounts and replace nuts and bolts as they were originally installed.
8. Connect TC arms uniball to spindle using included hardware as shown in the diagram that should be included in the box.
9. Remove straps/rope.
10. Doneski!

Hope this helps. its how I did it
 

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This write up was a great help. If the bolts weren't hidden behind the frame and brake lines this would be an extremely easy install. ..:cheers:
 

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I had problems with back of the bushings hitting the radius of the bushing pocket in the rear. I beveled the rear of the bushing to clear.
Here's a before & after drawing:
 

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loufish said:
I had problems with back of the bushings hitting the radius of the bushing pocket in the rear. I beveled the rear of the bushing to clear.
Here's a before & after drawing:
What software are you using to do that drawing loufish?? Solidworks?
 

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I had the same problem, and used a dremel to grind down the bushings. Loufish that is an excellent picture to help the next guy..
 

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What software are you using to do that drawing loufish?? Solidworks?
Actually Corel Draw 11. Came out pretty cool huh?
 

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loufish said:
Actually Corel Draw 11. Came out pretty cool huh?
Wow, that's pretty impressive. I have CS2 and Corel Draw X3 on my computer, just starting to get into the whole "vector" art thing. Might be getting a vinyl cutter soon too!!!

I can't do any cool art like that though.
 

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Loufish that is an excellent picture to help the next guy..
Thanks.......I kind of did it up for Greg if it would help with the install.
 

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PrerunnerGreg said:
That is great! Now I can direct people here instead of trying to explain on the phone. Thanks Lou.

Maybe you should just print that out and send it with the arms when someone orders a set??? Thus avoiding the phone call AND having to direct them here.
 

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That is great! Now I can direct people here instead of trying to explain on the phone. Thanks Lou.
You're most welcome!
 
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