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Discussion Starter #1
So this certainly is not the first brake pad install thread, but what the heck...

So here is what a 4x4 looks like with the caliper off (not different than a 4x2).
The clean area is grooved about 1/16" deeper than the rust. Nice.


Here is what you will find behind the rotor.


This is the new rotor (dba 4000 series) and the new pads (Akebono ProACT)


This is a comparison of the old to the new. You can see that the new ones are a little thicker, maybe 1/8", but it is hard to tell with the rust being raised on the old one.


And this is the final result!
Probably don't need to be that generous with the CRC goo, but I don't want them to squeak.


:rockon

Oh, sorry if the photos are giant. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can't tell yet, I literally put them on last night, so I only ran a little break-in to make sure everything checks out. The initial bite is a lot sharper for sure.

I will post an update when they have a few miles on them.
 

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Looks good. How long did it take you to install? Make sure to keep us updated on their performance.
 

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Did you replace the rears also? What was the cost?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did not replace the rears yet, I am going to wait until they also need new pads. The judder is a front only thing I think.

The cost was $325. Then it was around $5 for the orange goo and brake cleaner. Definitely get the brake cleaner, as the rotors are coated with manufacturing oil and you need to get that stuff off.

The install took me about 3 hours. I think I could have done it in 1 if I were better prepared. The main struggle was opening the caliper far enough to get it off the old rotor because of the rust and the groove that was worn in. Oh, and I didn't have a C-clamp large enough. :crying:

I have a few hundred miles on them now and they are still going strong. The feel is way better than factory, the grab is there as soon as you touch the pedal. They are nice and smooth, and the stopping power is uniform all the way from highway speed, there is literally almost no fade.
 

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grnTitan04 said:
The main struggle was opening the caliper far enough to get it off the old rotor because of the rust and the groove that was worn in. Oh, and I didn't have a C-clamp large enough.
So how did you get the calipers off? And the C-clamp is to open up the calipers (once off) to fit with the new pads / rotors, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes, the C-clamp is to open the caliper by compressing the pistons. With the caliper off, you can take off the outside pad and place the screw of the clamp right into the groove where the pad was, then just crank it carefully to push the pistons back in. You need the extra room because the new pads will be about 1/4 inch thicker on each side than what you are taking off.
With a bigger clamp, I could have compressed directly against the rotor while still on the truck.

I knew I was replacing the rotors anyway, so I carefully drove a screwdriver between the pad and the rotor on each side until it was open far enough.

I guess I could have taken the sliding pins off and basically disassembled the caliper, but I hate to mess with things that are fine.
 

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grnTitan04 said:
The cost was $325. Then it was around $5 for the orange goo and brake cleaner.

I have a few hundred miles on them now and they are still going strong. The feel is way better than factory, the grab is there as soon as you touch the pedal. They are nice and smooth, and the stopping power is uniform all the way from highway speed, there is literally almost no fade.
I'm onna git me soma does. Can't hurt when I'm pulling a trailer.
 

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I would be interested to see how brake wear compares with these slotted rotors over the OEM rotors. I understand that slotted will be harder on the pads, but how drastic of a difference?
 

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Where did you buy your pads and rotors from? I am having a hell of a time trying to find a place that carries this set up.
 

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Hope they work well for you, please post the results and opinions when you can!!!! Brakes on the Titans are a sore subject for some, i know i had my issues with my 2004. Just curious from the pics, it looks like you have alot of rusted parts and weathered frame. Is that from living up north and driving during the winter????
 

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Where did you get the stuff from?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I got all the parts from TireRack. Make sure you click through the link on TT so that the forum gets the credit (increased sales is a sure path to getting what we ask for in the future). :upsidedow

Yeah, that rust is from 2 winters up North. Sad really. I spray the underside down every other month or so, as long as it seems like the water won't freeze, but this is still what happens up here. :crying:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
From what can be seen through the wheels, they still look like new. I am probably not going to take things apart again until spring, when I rotate the tires and check on the rear pads. I will post a real review then. For now, they are still stopping very well, feel the same as the day I put them on.

I will offer this complaint though: dusty.
They are not quite as bad as the factory pads, but there is definitely a returning residue to wash off every couple weeks.
 

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Nice Pictures (I like big clear ones)

Where do you live?!?!?

There a ton of rust on the upper A-arm and caliper, Also that rancho shock has a nice ring of rust around it. I live in Vegas and My O4 looks nothing like that rust wise.
 

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grnTitan04 said:
I got all the parts from TireRack. Make sure you click through the link on TT so that the forum gets the credit (increased sales is a sure path to getting what we ask for in the future). :upsidedow

Yeah, that rust is from 2 winters up North. Sad really. I spray the underside down every other month or so, as long as it seems like the water won't freeze, but this is still what happens up here. :crying:
Yeah, isn't road salt fun? Off topic here but do you have a heated garage? If so, you will be better off storing the truck outside. The warm salt is more corrosive.
 
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