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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

I've got some parts coming in to replace struts, UCAs, LCAs, end links, and tie rods. Going to get some lift in with this setup, which is exciting.. will be sure to post up some before and after pics..

However, I'm wondering what you all think the best order of operations is with regard to tackling the front suspension work?

Should I do something like:
Jack truck up, and place on stands,
1. Driver side front:
- Remove stock UCA
- Remove Strut assembly
- Remove LCA
- Replace with new parts in reverse order

2. Passenger side front:
- same process..

Or, should I tackle the front piece by piece, which is to say that if I remove driver side front UCA, then I do the same with the passenger side?

Any advise on the order to which I should go when tackling this would be great. The rear will be getting new shocks and 1" blocks.
 

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Always do one side with the other still assembled. If you suddenly forget where a wire clip goes or how a part is oriented and bolted in, you have a reference.

Also, if you're doing both upper and lower control arms, I'd recommend pulling the caliper and taking the entire knuckle out (you'll have to unbolt the big axle nut axle if you're 4wd). The amount of room/access you'll have for shock and tie rods will be super nice.
 

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Did the same in May on my ‘05. Took me 2-8 hour days in my driveway and 90 degrees. A bunch of YouTube help breaks on the first side. I did one side at a time. It was very straight forward. All of the local shops want 1500 to do it. Not so much. Have fun and good luck.
 

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Hey - a couple of things to know:

1. Go ahead and pull the bolt from the brake line bracket behind the rear UCA bolt on the driver's side. It's the one with all the curly lines.
2. Also, remove the steering column shaft connector bolt in that same area. It's a 20- or 30-something pounds of torque bolt, so easy to get back to factory specs. Get the steering column out of the way and things are much easier. I held the flex part of my column up with some twine.
 
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That brake line bolt snapped off on me. But yes, it needs to come off. Forgot about that. I didn’t do anything with the steering shaft. I’m sure that would have helped a lot
 

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That little gold nut on the steering shaft, just above the flex joint is your target. Makes accessing the UCA bolt so much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You all are awesome! Here are some notes below that I think outline the process to remove, install, and torque for this suspension stuffs. Let me know if you have any other suggestions. Thanks!

1. Remove:
A. Remove fender liner
B. Brake caliper and rotor
C. Disconnect steering column connector
D. End link and Tie Rod
E. Shock
F. Separate ABS wire from vehicle and hub
G. Axle Nut – 32mm
H. UCA from Spindle
I. Remove LCA bolt to spindle 22mm socket, 19mm wrench
J. Remove outer tie rods
K. Remove inner tie rods

2. Reverse procedure
A. Install inner tie rods
B. Install outer tie rods
C. Install UCA
- i. Ball joint nut 58ft lbs
- ii. Pivot bolts 110ft lbs
D. Reconnect steering column connector 20ft lbs
E. Install LCA
- i. Preload bushings – once body lifts the suspension is sufficiently preloaded
- 1. Camber Bolts – large portion of washer can point towards engine for alignment safe to get to alignment shop
- ii. Nut at spindle 70ft lbs
- iii. Pivolt bolts 105ft lbs
F. Install spindle
- i. Connect axle nut 101ft lbs
- ii. Connect ABS
G. Install sway bar end link
- i. 62fb lbs
H. Install shock
- i. Upper nuts 22ft lbs
- ii. Lower bolt 99ft lbs
I. Install tie-rod
J. Install rotor and caliper
- i. Caliper Bracket 155ft lbs
K. Drop vehicle, and torque LCA
- i. Ball joint nut 70ft lbs
L. Re-install fender liner

3. Rear Suspension Install
A. Do one side at a time:
- i. Disconnect rear shock
- ii. Remove rear u bolts
- iii. Install new block, u bolts, torque 89ft lbs
- iv. Shock upper and lower bolt 111ft lbs
 

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Sounds good on the front. You'll have to loosen both sides on the rear and then drop one side to install the block. Helps if you have a friend who can help keep the diff snout properly angled. I didn't, but enlisted the help of the scissor jack under the back seat to lift and hold said snout in position while I got the block in and u-bolts tight enough to hold the position (but still let the other side droop for install).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sounds good on the front. You'll have to loosen both sides on the rear and then drop one side to install the block. Helps if you have a friend who can help keep the diff snout properly angled. I didn't, but enlisted the help of the scissor jack under the back seat to lift and hold said snout in position while I got the block in and u-bolts tight enough to hold the position (but still let the other side droop for install).

So remove the lower bolt on the shocks on the rear? When you mention diff snout angle, do you have any pictures or a good youtube video to reference? Are you just lifting the diff up to take pressure off the leafs/blocks to pull and replace with the larger block?
 

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I mean you'll need to loosen the u-bolts holding the leaf springs on both sides of the axle, or the axle will not droop enough to do any work. Sorry I wasn't clear. For the rear shocks, break both bolts loose then pull bottom bolt then top bolt. At least that's what I did to keep from getting clubbed by a swinging shock.

What I mean by diff snout angle will be more apparent after you loosen the u-bolts. Because the snout of the diff and driveshaft weigh more than the rear cover, the whole assembly will want to rotate down at the pinion yoke. A friend or a spare jack can help avoid the drooping rotation and get your spring pins and holes aligned to tighten up.
 
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IMO unbolt the sway bar endinks before you even jack the truck up, when theyre completely neutral.
 

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I helped to do a complete suspension replacement on an '07 Armada that is quite similar to what you'll be doing. If the truck already has the camber bolts then be sure to mark where they are before removing them. Otherwise, you'll certainly need to get an alignment performed. You'll likely want to do an alignment anyway, but it's a different urgency when you put the camber bolts back in exactly as you took them out.
 
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Hey all,

I've got some parts coming in to replace struts, UCAs, LCAs, end links, and tie rods. Going to get some lift in with this setup, which is exciting.. will be sure to post up some before and after pics..

However, I'm wondering what you all think the best order of operations is with regard to tackling the front suspension work?

Should I do something like:
Jack truck up, and place on stands,
1. Driver side front:
- Remove stock UCA
- Remove Strut assembly
- Remove LCA
- Replace with new parts in reverse order

2. Passenger side front:
- same process..

Or, should I tackle the front piece by piece, which is to say that if I remove driver side front UCA, then I do the same with the passenger side?

Any advise on the order to which I should go when tackling this would be great. The rear will be getting new shocks and 1" blocks.
Hey all,

I've got some parts coming in to replace struts, UCAs, LCAs, end links, and tie rods. Going to get some lift in with this setup, which is exciting.. will be sure to post up some before and after pics..

However, I'm wondering what you all think the best order of operations is with regard to tackling the front suspension work?

Should I do something like:
Jack truck up, and place on stands,
1. Driver side front:
- Remove stock UCA
- Remove Strut assembly
- Remove LCA
- Replace with new parts in reverse order

2. Passenger side front:
- same process..

Or, should I tackle the front piece by piece, which is to say that if I remove driver side front UCA, then I do the same with the passenger side?

Any advise on the order to which I should go when tackling this would be great. The rear will be getting new shocks and 1" blocks.
NISSAN Motorsports

Nissan Motorsports Performance Suspenion Kit


(New in the Box) NISMO Titan coil over suspension kit, 2" lift to 2" drop. Includes four Bilstein shocks,(fronts are adjustable with threaded perch) front coil springs, front upper shock mounts, rear shackles and rear add-a-leaf. Compliant and great on the street or light off-roading. All hardware included. Seriously interested contact Rob at [email protected]

See details at: NISMO Performance | Nissan USA. $1150.00 Firm or better offer!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
NISSAN Motorsports

Nissan Motorsports Performance Suspenion Kit


(New in the Box) NISMO Titan coil over suspension kit, 2" lift to 2" drop. Includes four Bilstein shocks,(fronts are adjustable with threaded perch) front coil springs, front upper shock mounts, rear shackles and rear add-a-leaf. Compliant and great on the street or light off-roading. All hardware included. Seriously interested contact Rob at [email protected]

See details at: NISMO Performance | Nissan USA. $1150.00 Firm or better offer!!!

I'm installing the Icon/Nissan setup.
 
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