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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
There is a recall involving the ECM relay, TSB NTB10-137b
The TSB list 04-06 but give the dealer a call anyway with your VIN.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/16959871/NTB10-137b.pdf

As of late I have seen a lot of posts of truck not starting, sputtering or shutting off while driving. Most of these are usually because of the ECU relay failing or in some cases the whole IPDM board failing.
IPDM = Intelligence Power Distribution Module


Symptoms - there have been lots of different symptoms but all in all the truck usually will not idle right or can't even be started.

-truck die while driving and can't be started
-sputtering like it's not getting gas
-rough idling
-usually no SES codes but might have a combination of other lights flashing or on.
-sometimes truck will die but will start up normally in a few minutes/hours than die again
-sometimes the truck crank but will not start than start normally after that (early sign of IPDM failure)
-battery usually good cause I had full lights in the truck and all other stuffs work
-I will add more to the symptoms list as I come across them

NascarJody was the first to post about swapping the ECU relay with the fog lights relay.
Note: this is a way to get you going and is not a permanent fix.
See image below


Location of IPDM box under the hood and how to remove
(you do not need to remove the IPDM out of the box but will need
to lift it up to access the lower row of relays)


Once you have swapped the relays and if the truck start right up, than you
know the ECU relay was the culprit.

FIX- couple of choices.
-Get a new ECU relay (as I say before swapping relay is not a permanent fix as the fog lights relay lacked a "protective diode", this protect the ECU from a power spike.
-Thanks to TitanBlue for finding the source of the correct relays but since it's only sold in lots of 50
-Thank you to RobKar for ordering and sending out the relays to those needed.
Relay model number: ACM33211
>>>Get ECU relays from RobKar<<<
Even those of you who have never had this problems, It would not be a bad idea to get an extra relay to keep in the truck.
Even with a new IPDM board I have some extra relays in the glove box.

-Get a new IPDM
-If you would rather get a new IPDM instead of just a relay, the part # for the new improved IPDM is 284B7-ZE03B
-I have read instance where swapping the relays did not help but the problems was solved once a new IPDM was installed.
-New IPDM cost about $100 or so, Swapping out the IPDM took me about 5 minutes in the driveway with a simple flathead screwdriver
-Unfortunately you can NOT get the $100 IPDM anymore.

You can buy just the relay from the dealer. PN 284B7-CW29E


The latest IPDM part # 284B7-ZE03B Black in color.
 

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What would we do without you???
 

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Okay I'm in dire need of help... I believe my IPDM is going out.. Here is what my truck is doing... Everyday in the morning it starts fine, starts fine when I get out of class, I strted it at least 15 times today running errands before work. Actually 3 days in a row now , idle is fine, everything is normal. 4 DAYS IN A ROW at 8pm when I goto lunch (I work 4-midnight) it won't start, no crank, no kick from the starter but plenty of power for the lights windows etc... I swapped the Relays yesterday but it still is did it today.... Each night after playing with it it seems to start up at about 12:45 am... WTF?? I'll say this I was In Pismo last weekend and did a little off roading, and some towing if that makes a difference... But I'm typing this from my iPhone in the breakroom, and I really want to fix this problem.. Could it be anything other than the IPDM? I thought perhaps it was the transponder key but I've tried all 3 of mine and still no start.. Also my truck is a 2007 4x4 so it's a little newer, anyone with an 07 or newer had trouble with the IPDM?
 

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Okay I'm in dire need of help... I believe my IPDM is going out.. Here is what my truck is doing... Everyday in the morning it starts fine, starts fine when I get out of class, I strted it at least 15 times today running errands before work. Actually 3 days in a row now , idle is fine, everything is normal. 4 DAYS IN A ROW at 8pm when I goto lunch (I work 4-midnight) it won't start, no crank, no kick from the starter but plenty of power for the lights windows etc... I swapped the Relays yesterday but it still is did it today.... Each night after playing with it it seems to start up at about 12:45 am... WTF?? I'll say this I was In Pismo last weekend and did a little off roading, and some towing if that makes a difference... But I'm typing this from my iPhone in the breakroom, and I really want to fix this problem.. Could it be anything other than the IPDM? I thought perhaps it was the transponder key but I've tried all 3 of mine and still no start.. Also my truck is a 2007 4x4 so it's a little newer, anyone with an 07 or newer had trouble with the IPDM?
I think your problem is the battery or a corroded battery connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You're IPDM might be in the early stage of failing. Like I stated above, some peoples have no luck with the relay swap.
Yes there have been reports of IPDM failure in the 07, not as much as the earlier models but has happened.
 

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I had starting problems similar to the IPDM issue. They replaced the IPDM board and all kinds of things but still didn't work. Finally the Dealer fixed it and said it was something with the anti-theft alarm array. The truck has been starting fine for over a year since the fix.
 

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A little heads up for those doing the IPDM Replacement. REMOVE THE BATTERY from the truck, then replace the IPDM. I didn't when I replaced mine and didn't get one or more (Not sure how many) of the connectors fully seated. This caused the truck to throw 6 codes. After numerous attempts to remove the 6 codes I finally took Baseballfanz advice and removed my IPDM and reinstalled it, after removing the battery to give me more room to work. Did the manual SES light reset and I no longer have an SES light.
 

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I had starting problems similar to the IPDM issue. They replaced the IPDM board and all kinds of things but still didn't work. Finally the Dealer fixed it and said it was something with the anti-theft alarm array. The truck has been starting fine for over a year since the fix.
What did they fix? This problem has continued, but one night by accident I pushed the button on the fob with the key in the ignition and it started right up. So every time it's not wanted to start since I just push the fob button while trying to start it and it's fine. I just today discovered you can reset the immobilizer system with the key, so hopefully that does the fix. If not I'm wondering what I'll need to replace...
 

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Okay so I'm still having this issue where the immobilizer system wont let me start my truck... It's been fine for a few days and all of a sudden now it isn't working again... here is my question.... is the immobilizer system part of the IPDM? If it is i can just kill 2 birds with one stone and replace it. I'm really getting sick of this $hit.... I know it's not the IPDM directly, it IS the immobilizer alarm thing. help would be greatly appreciated....
 

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Sorry I wish I asked questions when they fixed mine. I went to the Irvine dealership (back in 09), maybe give them a call?
 

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Hi I am Rags.
New to the site, but love the information. I have a 2004 and seem to be having the same problems as described above. All lights work when you turn the key on but nothing at all when you turn the key to start. before it stopped starting it began to buck and jump a little the mph and rpm gauge stopped working it acted like it was going to die. I made it to football practice, then it would not start after killing it. I changed out the relays with window defroser relay and fog lamp relay. No go. I noticed the horn no longer sounds when I lock it and the panic alarm on the key fob does not work. How do I know if it is the board or the imobilization system? Please no way to get to where I need to be. Thanks.
 

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Very simple job thought I would share my experience. Great thread Fanz

Tools needed:

1/8” flathead screwdriver
3/16” flathead screwdriver





1-Return your truck back to stock tune if you have a tune.

Remove both battery cables.

This is where the IPDM is located. Big black box nearest the firewall.





Push in mounting tabs on the IPDM this will allow it to slide up in its mounting track and allow for eventual removal. You can see the tabs at the top left and right in this picture.



Most of the wire harness plugs needed the smaller screwdriver but some I used the bigger one. If the plug does not come out easily then you have not pushed the retaining clip in far enough. There are 6 plugs to unplug and they are all different shapes/sizes so it makes it easy..















My new IPDM was missing one fuse. I didn’t look what it was for but just swapped it out from the old one.



Put the battery cables back on, took a big sip of Capn, crossed my fingers, and turned the key. Fired right up. 15 minute job but I would not want to do this on a hot day on the side of the road. Oh, my IPDM wasnt bad but wanted to do it anyway. Now I have a spare under my back seat
 

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how's it going out there titan owners. i had a thread a little bit ago about fuel problems. i figured that little problem out but i am still getting a rough idle, a flashing SES light and it is almost as if its only running on 4 or 5 cylinders. shifts are slow now but i get a snappy fuel response off the line. the glass pack i have on the truck is spitting out the fiberglass now so i know somethings not right there. this all started when i replaced my after market fuel pump. i adjusted my Mallory fuel regulator to run at the normal 55 psi at idle and about 51 to 55 psi when under a load (example Drive, Reverse, Neutral ect. We did remove the trailer tow that Nissan had on the truck to clean it up and have less wires running around the truck. I'm thinking that was not a very smart move on our part and contemplating putting it back and hiding it in the frame so its out of our way and keep that clean look still. if anyone got any hint, tips, tricks. We would love to hear them. Thanks Guys
 

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I thought I had an ECU relay problem, I had just cleaned up the gunk on the positive terminal assembly with baking soda and replaced my battery. I re-attached the battery terminals and heard some clicking in the dash and immediately drained the new battery. I disconnected the battery and put a battery tender on and recharged it, but I also did an ohms reading from Positive cable to negative cable and I have a short. Unless my thinking is wrong, I shouldn't have a short from the hot terminal to the ground terminal. Can someone confirm?
 
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