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Hello. I recently intalled some JBA headers on my Titan, however I fear that I may have made a terrible mistake. Now finding out that these headers are known for blowing out the stock catalytic converters, I had to have the cats removed and replaced with straight piping. I still have the stock cats that have flanges welded to both ends (including flanges on the headers and exhaust), and I can get them reinstalled whenever I need to get my smog checked since I live in CA. However, I am curious to know how much the stock manifold would cost to buy if I ever intend on selling the vehicle since I do not want to just bolt on the cats and let the buyer drive away with a ticking time bomb. If any of you have information or any suggestions, your help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 

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The OEM manifolds are huge $$$... one side costs as much as the set of SS JBA headers... best thing to do if you want to have a set of OEM's is to pick up someone's takeoff's on TT. As for blowing cats, it's not the headers... it's the stupid OEM design all together, OEM manifold forward placement of the primary cats are getting direct engine heat... use metallic cats, not ceramic... and you may want to get your T re-tuned as well, recommend getting Up-Rev'd...
 

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Ok, thank you for your reply. Do you have an idea of how much members usually sell their stock exhaust manifolds for on this forum? I need to remove my headers, I just can't afford to deal with future problems or legal issues due to them. I know I could sell the headers on this forum, so that will help with purchasing the used stock manifolds from someone here. I am quite aggravated at JBA for not mentioning the risk that these headers could cause and all the legal issues involved after installation...
 

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I'm not sure what issues JBA told you about their headers may lead to the Cat's being destroyed, but the OEM cats get destroyed easily enough inside the OEM manifolds as it is... however, I know that JBA headers are the only CARB approved headers and require cats to be added to meet CA emissions regulations (clearly stated by JBA and hence the CARB approval)... You're doing the smart thing by keeping those primary cats off until smog time, just make sure to either reset your ECU a day before your smog appointment so your A/F targets can get adjusted with the additional forward cats. If you get Up Rev'd, keep the OEM tune and switch over the day before, again for the same reason... Oh Yeah, make sure you put that JBA CARB sticker under the hood, or somewhere visible in the engine area (I stuck mine on the plastic crossmember above the radiator. Here's a TT member selling his OEM manifold takeoff's...
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/buy-sell/124313-fs-stock-exhaust-manifolds-w-cats.html
 

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Thanks for all your help.
No problem, thaz what most of us are here to do, help each other out with lessons learned from our own failures... And to point and laugh really fahking hard when you make a total HUA mistake instead of searching for the right answer!!! :rofl:
 

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My factory manifolds developed an exhaust leak around 75,000 miles. I put JBA shorty headers, Magnaflow Highflow Cats. and true dual Magnaflow exhaust with an H-pipe to regulate the pressure. It has been almost 70,000 more miles and I am extremely satisfied with the set up. extreme top end horespower gains and beautiful sound. It cost me less to install all of this with a K&N Cold Air Intake for less than what the factory wanted to replace just the Manifolds.
 

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Can't you give the buyer the cats and let him drive away with headers?

Swapping JBA headers for crackomatic manifolds does not sound like you're doing the buyer a favor.
Well, who cares about the ticking time bomb?, just as long as it passes the Smog Inspection required to make the transfer/registration. Just let the buyer know and give them the cats for Smog purposes... If hey choose to buy it, and they want to keep the cat's installed, you warned them about it and it's their problem... Print out a Disclaimer and have it laminated then affixed on the frame near the headers and cats.

Disclaimer: The installation and use of the forward Cats are for CARB Smog Inspection Use only... Recommend that they not be used for a prolonged amount of time or while Off-Road... Prolonged use may result in Loss of Performance, Grenaded Cat cores, and further costly problems as a result of trying to be a tree hugger...
 

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smash out the insides of the cat and install a fooler where the o2 sensor is.

I think JBA headers would be good to purchase and then have extensions to purchase seperately, calling them for off-road purpose only to eliminate the cats. because I have the stillen B-pipes with the 02 sensor bungs in there. I don't need primary cats anymore.

I am going to Email JBA and see if they will make a flanged end and supply a extension pipe that will bolt to the existing B-pipes. But if the cost is up there, then I would just buy the Thorley or stillen long tubes.

Chris
 

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smash out the insides of the cat and install a fooler where the o2 sensor is.

I think JBA headers would be good to purchase and then have extensions to purchase seperately, calling them for off-road purpose only to eliminate the cats. because I have the stillen B-pipes with the 02 sensor bungs in there. I don't need primary cats anymore.

I am going to Email JBA and see if they will make a flanged end and supply a extension pipe that will bolt to the existing B-pipes. But if the cost is up there, then I would just buy the Thorley or stillen long tubes.

Chris
Actually what I would like to see from JBA would be a "Forward Cat Elimination Pipe" (same length as OEM cat), along with a cat'd or resonated B Pipe replacement... while holding costs down to a minimum... That would give them a complete "Off-Road" application. ;)
 

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While on the subject, Since I changed out my exhaust system my "check engine light" stays on. the code reads something about the cats. Does anyone know the best way to resolve this issue?
 

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While on the subject, Since I changed out my exhaust system my "check engine light" stays on. the code reads something about the cats. Does anyone know the best way to resolve this issue?
Just changing your exhaust system did not cause your SES code... If it's a related O2 sensor code, it should identify at least which side is tripping the code. (Bank 1 = Driver / Bank 2 = Passenger)

Are the aft sensor bungs downstream from the cats?
If it's stock manifolds and B Pipe setup, you might have the ever so popular cracked manifold or grenade'd cat syndrome. Otherwise, ya gotta place the rear O2 sensor behind the cat or install defowlers...
 

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seems like the 02 sensors after the cats crap out early because of high heat perhaps. my 03 sentra's crapped out. my dads car crapped out also.

I have a bosche 15518 02 sensor on Ebay for a sentra, not sure if its the same unit. but maybe it is. 0258986646009 is on the box also. brand new. i got rid of my 03 sentra before the Cat exploded and suck the pieces back into the engine! a problem with QR25DE sentras.

chris
 

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Austin 1869,

I have purchased the JBA headers and the magnaflow cats to go along with it. Glad to see you've had success with your setup. I was wondering if you had yours UPREV tuned? Basically what I want to know it if I can run this setup without the UPREV and not harm the truck. I've heard the truck tends to run lean without the UPREV.
 

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If you are flexfuel you may get by without uprev but you need to get the Afr's checked so you wont destroy the motor. Just sold a set of bpipes to a guy who had to replace the engine due to a lean condition from a stillen header install. Be careful!!!
 

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If you are flexfuel you may get by without uprev but you need to get the Afr's checked so you wont destroy the motor. Just sold a set of bpipes to a guy who had to replace the engine due to a lean condition from a stillen header install. Be careful!!!
Can you elaborate on this subject? I am having trouble understanding why changing the factory manifolds for headers would cause the truck to run leaner, since the ECM should attempt to keep the AFR as close to stoichomentric as possible (or at whatever AFR it's programmed for anyway), regardless of exhaust type. That's what the AFR/O2 sensors are there for, as it creates the best efficiency/mileage.

I can understand maybe having to reset the learned values in the ECM back to zero, but that's about it. As far as the guy that had a lunched motor after header install - the truck should have thrown some codes for AFR Rich (P0471/0472 I think) long before any damage, as the ECM would compensate for a lean mixture until reaching STFT/LTFT preset values, then set a code.
 

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Can you elaborate on this subject? I am having trouble understanding why changing the factory manifolds for headers would cause the truck to run leaner, since the ECM should attempt to keep the AFR as close to stoichomentric as possible (or at whatever AFR it's programmed for anyway), regardless of exhaust type. That's what the AFR/O2 sensors are there for, as it creates the best efficiency/mileage.

I can understand maybe having to reset the learned values in the ECM back to zero, but that's about it. As far as the guy that had a lunched motor after header install - the truck should have thrown some codes for AFR Rich (P0471/0472 I think) long before any damage, as the ECM would compensate for a lean mixture until reaching STFT/LTFT preset values, then set a code.
As long as you keep the factory cats in place you're fine. Switching them out for straight pipe/ high flow aftermarket cats causes it to run much differently.. and without a tune to correct for it thats where guys get in trouble
 

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Hi guys
I just received my JBA headers and the flange is not flat. The welds are grinded but still sticking out. Is that normal, why is it not flat as magnaglows or factory? Also what’s the best gaskets for these headers. I’m replacing it 3th time now, I purchased magnaflows and they cracked after half year. Can someone recommend what to do?
Thanks
545673
 
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