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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just bought a set of used DR's from someone here on the boards and was wondering a few things... (Greg, ur input would be very appreciated)

1) How can I tell how much lift the shocks are preset to give me? (keep in mind these are used so they may have been adjusted already) I want them to give me the most lift without banging uca's on the coil buckets or anything like that and I DO plan on getting spindles and new UCA's VERY SOON. Would 2-1/2" be the best for now?

2) This kinda goes with the first one... Should I do the "flip" trick to the DR's now since I also plan on purchasing UCA's from greg down the line? or wait til after I buy the UCA's?

3) Anything special that I should know about installing these coilovers?

Thanx everyone. I plan installing tomorrow afternoon so I'll post some before and afters.
 

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TitanmediC said:
So I just bought a set of used DR's from someone here on the boards and was wondering a few things... (Greg, ur input would be very appreciated)

1) How can I tell how much lift the shocks are preset to give me? (keep in mind these are used so they may have been adjusted already) I want them to give me the most lift without banging uca's on the coil buckets or anything like that and I DO plan on getting spindles and new UCA's VERY SOON. Would 2-1/2" be the best for now?

2) This kinda goes with the first one... Should I do the "flip" trick to the DR's now since I also plan on purchasing UCA's from greg down the line? or wait til after I buy the UCA's?

3) Anything special that I should know about installing these coilovers?

Thanx everyone. I plan installing tomorrow afternoon so I'll post some before and afters.
- if i'm correct if you haven't installed them yet, you can measure stock from center of the wheelhub to the lip of the fender, then install the DRs and then re-measure to determine lift. also 2.5" would be best for now and even when you get spindles and UCAs.
- don't do the hat flip till after you get the UCAs. personally, i wouldn't do it at all.
- ??? not that i know of, but greg can give you more precise and thorough advise.
 

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Is flipping the hat on the DR strong enough? I would think that would make it weaker because now it is just 2 tabs holding the shock on. I though about doing that on my F1 so I didnt have to crank them down so far and make them ride stiff, but I though DR made them that way for a reason and didnt want to risk it.

Kartman go ahead do your thing make some dumb comment about this being a titan forum.
 

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it doesn't matter how much pre-load the shocks have, the UCA either hits or clears... it's a function of the shocks extended length that decides, not the pre-load.

"Flipping the Hat" insures the arms will hit...wait until you have the new UCA's...
 

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newguy said:
Is flipping the hat on the DR strong enough? I would think that would make it weaker because now it is just 2 tabs holding the shock on. I though about doing that on my F1 so I didnt have to crank them down so far and make them ride stiff, but I though DR made them that way for a reason and didnt want to risk it.

Kartman go ahead do your thing make some dumb comment about this being a titan forum.
No need, you made more than enough dumb comments in this thread.
 

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Stock, the DRE typically come with 3/4" of thread showing. This is about 2" of lift on a 4wd, about 3" on a 2wd. These numbers are NOT concrete. If your Titan sits low now, then these numbers are easy to get, if it sits tall from the factory, then it will be much harder to get the full amount of increase. If its an '08, you will only gain about 1" of lift on a 4wd, 2" on a 2wd. Dont flip the hat now, get UCA's. Adding the uca requires the addition of a billet spacer (or flipping the hat and cutting, grinding and hammering), you'd have to take the shock out anyway, if you want to flip the hat, do it then. Things to note; there are two bolt patterens, use the one with the dimples. Be sure the lower spacers push the shock away from the axle. If you need to adjust the height, the ratio is about 2:1....1/2" of lift is 1/4" of preload.
 

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TitanmediC said:
So I just bought a set of used DR's from someone here on the boards and was wondering a few things... (Greg, ur input would be very appreciated)

1) How can I tell how much lift the shocks are preset to give me? (keep in mind these are used so they may have been adjusted already) I want them to give me the most lift without banging uca's on the coil buckets or anything like that and I DO plan on getting spindles and new UCA's VERY SOON. Would 2-1/2" be the best for now?

2) This kinda goes with the first one... Should I do the "flip" trick to the DR's now since I also plan on purchasing UCA's from greg down the line? or wait til after I buy the UCA's?

3) Anything special that I should know about installing these coilovers?

Thanx everyone. I plan installing tomorrow afternoon so I'll post some before and afters.
Like Greg mentioned its not in concrete, so measure height and put them on as per Greg's instructions and adjust as needed.Un-weight the front end loosen the alen set screw, spray threads with WD 40 and tighten.Set it back down drive it down the street and back to let the suspension set in and to feel the ride.Check height. Adjust further as needed.

As far as the top mount flip ? what do want to accomplish ? The guys that do that want there truck as tall as they can get it. And end up with little to no droop travel at ride height.

If you want a nice working suspension and run 35's, When you get the UCA's have Greg also get you the 5/8" spacer. You install that above the upper mount,this gives you 1 1/4" of lift without preloading the DR and also gives you max droop travel the tubular UCA at max droop will stop a fraction before hitting the coil bucket.( Greg's very smart design) Then when you get the 4" lift spindles you can take the preload out of the DR's and still have a nice ride height and working suspension. Oh yeah also get the Deaver spring pack and NO BLOCK'S in the rear, Hey thats my set up.

Also when shopping for 35's buy a set that are not too wide or they will rub.A nice set of 35's on stock wheels work good. It's kinda hard to find a set of after market's with the correct backset. Also if you do get after markets do not get polished aluminum unless you want to spend all you spare time polishing them.

First pic flip upper mount
Second pic my set up
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
a couple questions about your response Greg...

1) can you explain the bolt pattern that should be used more. not sure what you mean by the one with the "dimples"

2) I have a 2wd KC so what should be done about what u said by installing the lower spacers so it pushes the shock away from the axle?
 

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1) can you explain the bolt pattern that should be used more. not sure what you mean by the one with the "dimples"

7. Install new coil assembly: there are 6 threaded holes in the upper coil-over mount. You will use the three holes
with dots next to them for Titans/Armadas. Install upper mount with the charge port pointing outward using (3) 3/8”
bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts down to 30 ft/lbs.


Heres the instructions
http://www.donahoeracing.com/assets/install_instruct/8_1000.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
they're on and i could NOT be more pleased with how these things handle! these are well worth the $450 i paid :) for them used! they're set at 2" right now but i'll prob crank em another 1/2" or so tomorrow. i was stupid and completely forgot to take before pics so i'll only be posting after pics tomorrow morning when its light out. thanx for the help everyone, and if you don't have aftermarket coilovers, GO BUY SOME!
 

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TitanmediC said:
they're on and i could NOT be more pleased with how these things handle! these are well worth the $450 i paid :) for them used! they're set at 2" right now but i'll prob crank em another 1/2" or so tomorrow. i was stupid and completely forgot to take before pics so i'll only be posting after pics tomorrow morning when its light out. thanx for the help everyone, and if you don't have aftermarket coilovers, GO BUY SOME!
congratulations! hit some dips at full speed and they'll surprise you! take the sway bar and allow that front suspension to really articulate! my first set of C/Os were the DRs and they were awesome!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
hooligan said:
congratulations! hit some dips at full speed and they'll surprise you! take the sway bar and allow that front suspension to really articulate! my first set of C/Os were the DRs and they were awesome!!!
yeah i've heard alot about taking out the sway bar. is this recommended for aftermarket coilovers? what will it do for me?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
oh yeah and another thing i forgot to mention... both coilovers were exactly the same at the lower mount, therefore one coilover has the spacer facing the correct way and the other is facing the wrong way. (does this make sense?) i have a 2wd so will this be an issue since there is no axle to come in contact with?
 

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TitanmediC said:
yeah i've heard alot about taking out the sway bar. is this recommended for aftermarket coilovers? what will it do for me?
you'll get a bit more lean but yes, recommended for aftermarket coilovers ONLY since the springrate is higher to compensate for the loss of the swaybar. what will it do for you, it will allow your front wheels to completely articulate independant of each other whereas the swaybar would fight that. a definite improvement for offroading!!!
 

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BECHLYF said:
Like Greg mentioned its not in concrete, so measure height and put them on as per Greg's instructions and adjust as needed.Un-weight the front end loosen the alen set screw, spray threads with WD 40 and tighten.Set it back down drive it down the street and back to let the suspension set in and to feel the ride.Check height. Adjust further as needed.

As far as the top mount flip ? what do want to accomplish ? The guys that do that want there truck as tall as they can get it. And end up with little to no droop travel at ride height.

If you want a nice working suspension and run 35's, When you get the UCA's have Greg also get you the 5/8" spacer. You install that above the upper mount,this gives you 1 1/4" of lift without preloading the DR and also gives you max droop travel the tubular UCA at max droop will stop a fraction before hitting the coil bucket.( Greg's very smart design) Then when you get the 4" lift spindles you can take the preload out of the DR's and still have a nice ride height and working suspension. Oh yeah also get the Deaver spring pack and NO BLOCK'S in the rear, Hey thats my set up.

Also when shopping for 35's buy a set that are not too wide or they will rub.A nice set of 35's on stock wheels work good. It's kinda hard to find a set of after market's with the correct backset. Also if you do get after markets do not get polished aluminum unless you want to spend all you spare time polishing them.

First pic flip upper mount
Second pic my set up
so the 1st truck on the left, the green one with mudd grapplers is sitting on DRE's with a hat flip and TCA's?

I want to get decent lift, and coilovers and have been thinking of getting DRE's and flipping the hat, but setting for less preload, can I do that? I don't need/want 5" of lift, I just want to clear 33"s and not have a harsh ride...

I want to flip the hat to gain height, and drop the shock to less than max for a soft ride... can that be done? :D thanks!

also, I'll look into a fabtech 6" but seriously doubt it's in my near future LOL
 

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ok after re-reading this thread, hat flip is not necessary if you just buy the 5/8" spacer? why the hell would anyone flip the hat if they could get comparable lift without doing it? sounds dumb, I never knew much about the hat flip so I'm glad someone finally brought it up :D thanks to all you posted as it clarified that for me :D

I want to lift the front probably 4" about on my 4x so I was thinking DRE's with the spacer and PRG UCA's for the front, with Shackles and a 3" block in back til I can get some Deavors :D I figure 3" block with shackles will sit the rear like 2.5" over stock, and the front 4" will leave me with a very slight rake :D whatever gets me good clearance I suppose... between coil bucket and PRG UCA :D

My goal = more lift than my current 2.5" to clear tires better I want some 33"s like mud grapplers or maybe some Xtreme MTs instead of the X-Ats I have now... which are actually 32.6" or something according to the 4wheelparts description of them 305/70R/17 I want something with sick sidewall that look more aggressive :twisted: and a higher stance for slightly more clearance. I suppose more ground clearance and new shocks (have OR Rancho's and 33,000 on em with some mild offroading in the last 18,000 on them) will make me happy :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
looks like u answered ur own questions... i personally don't like the forward rake look but hey its what you want. Oh and be careful talking about buying tires based on looks cuz some people on here like to talk down to that way of thinking. just a heads up. :O)
 
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