That's interesting to hear. I guess I'll stick with good ol Valvoline 10w-30 when the time comes.
Just Drained The Mobil 1
Just in case anyone here is a synthetic nut like myself I don't think I would recommend trying it out in your new Titan. At 1000 miles I drained the factory fill oil and put Mobil 1 10W-30 in it. Yesterday at 2000 miles I dumped it out and put Havoline 5W-30 in it. Why would I waste expensive Mobil 1???? Glad you asked........ever since I put it in the engine it sounded louder at idle, more valve train noise than what it did with the factory fill oil. No noticeable gas mileage drop or other noises during acceleration or cruise, just a whole lot of valve train noise at idle. Now that I put good old dino juice back in it all is quiet at idle now. I guess I may have to change my views concerning synthetics with what I know now concerning the Titan. I'll be picking up a couple of cases of Chevron Supreme, which by the way does awesome in oil sample tests.
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Did you dump the oil at 1000 miles simply as a precaution, maybe catching some metal from the initial run in? I always do this in new engines but when I asked the service guys at Nissan they were pretty solid on waiting until 3000 miles. I just turned 1000 and am having a real hard time not changing the oil.
Just so you know, Valvoline doesn't typically do to well in oil samples. Some of the best dino results are from Chevron Supreme, Texaco/Havoline, and Pennzoil (believe it or not). Concerning synthetics Amsoil, Mobil 1, and Redline usually report back very good results. When it comes to semi-synthetics there are superb oil samples coming in from the Motorcraft 5W-20 and Pennzoil 5W-20. All 5W-20's are semi-synthetic anyway and hold their viscosity very well, usually better than the 5W-30's. I'll look at some more oil samples concerning the Chevron Supreme and report back which grade is doing better i.e. 5W-30 or 10W-30.
Skip and everyone else, DUMP THE OIL OUT!!!! I sent for an oil sample of which I've already got back the results and you wouldn't believe the crud in there from the manufacturing process. Please don't wait until 3000 miles. If your interested I can post my oil sample.
I'm all over it, will dump it on Saturday, truck will sit in the garage until then. In my BMW's I use the Castrol Syntech, how do you feel about Castrol DINO 10-30? Thanks for the heads up, I imagine there is all kinds of assy junk in there.
Castrol is not a bad oil concerning some of the oil samples I've read but it's most certainly not in the top 5. Did you know the Castrol Syntec that BMW recommends is not technically a synthetic at all? It's a hydrocracked oil that Castrol passes off as a full synthetic and somehow won the right to advertise that way when Mobil took them to court over it. What a scam and their price doesn't reflect this cheaper process either. I wouldn't use Castrol Syntec if someone gave me a lifetime supply for FREE.
no kiddin'...thanks
JetForeman read my mind.
JetForeman read my mind.
wow, that's twice Pluck. I did take that mind reading course but I didn't know it worked so well......... :upsidedow
What should somebody who doesn't see the numbers all the time get out of this document? What are the important figures of interest?
Edit your post and remove that information 
Iron, Lead, Copper, and Silicon. Iron goes without saying, Lead is bearings, Copper can be from oil coolers, and Silicon is generally dirt but in newer engines, seals "leak" silicon into the oil up to 15k miles in some cases. Typical numbers for Iron, or hopeful should I say, after 3k miles would be 12ppm or less, Lead will hopefully go to 1, Copper should be less than 3 and Silicon under 10. These are hopeful numbers. Individual results vary from different vehicles, weather, driving conditions, warm-up times, etc. etc. The lower the numbers the better. Silicon is a biggie though after the engine breaks in because if your running a K&N or have a dirty paper air filter your numbers can get pretty high which is not good....DIRT
Very interesting. That's a nice tool to have at your disposal.
What tool? And by the way I'm modifying my oil sample report to delete my personal information but I'm not having much luck. Thanks for the tip. I'll get it in a minute.
Jet,JetForeman said:Just in case anyone here is a synthetic nut like myself I don't think I would recommend trying it out in your new Titan. At 1000 miles I drained the factory fill oil and put Mobil 1 10W-30 in it. Yesterday at 2000 miles I dumped it out and put Havoline 5W-30 in it. Why would I waste expensive Mobil 1???? Glad you asked........ever since I put it in the engine it sounded louder at idle, more valve train noise than what it did with the factory fill oil. No noticeable gas mileage drop or other noises during acceleration or cruise, just a whole lot of valve train noise at idle. Now that I put good old dino juice back in it all is quiet at idle now. I guess I may have to change my views concerning synthetics with what I know now concerning the Titan. I'll be picking up a couple of cases of Chevron Supreme, which by the way does awesome in oil sample tests.
What did you do with the Mobil 1 you drained from your Titan? Sounds kinda funny but I guess you have taken it back to where you bought it and told them it didn't work!
Robert
Your kidding right?
It is not a demand, but on page 9-4 last column of the owners manual states
"NISSAN recommends mineral based oils. These oils must, however, meet the API quality and SAE viscosity ratings specified for your vehicles."
It also states that on page 8-11 middle column an interesting item:
"Use only Genuine Nissan Matic J ATF. Do not mix with other fluids.
Using automatic transmission fluid other then Genuine Nissan Matic J ATF will cause deterioration in drivability and automatic transmission durability, and may damage the automatic transmission, which is not covered by the NISSAN new vehicle limited warranty."
In other words use their ATF or your warranty is VOID! How do you like that $%^&*.
Yup, I am one of those idiots who read the whole manual and highlight it.
"NISSAN recommends mineral based oils. These oils must, however, meet the API quality and SAE viscosity ratings specified for your vehicles."
It also states that on page 8-11 middle column an interesting item:
"Use only Genuine Nissan Matic J ATF. Do not mix with other fluids.
Using automatic transmission fluid other then Genuine Nissan Matic J ATF will cause deterioration in drivability and automatic transmission durability, and may damage the automatic transmission, which is not covered by the NISSAN new vehicle limited warranty."
In other words use their ATF or your warranty is VOID! How do you like that $%^&*.
Yup, I am one of those idiots who read the whole manual and highlight it.
I read that too Dog, but it could be argued that synthetics are mineral based, of which they are. Just highly refined with PAO's and Esters in some cases. Also concerning the tranny fluid I've noticed a lot of manufacturers are going that way. The C230 Mercedes my wife used to have required Mercedes ATF, no other substitutions were allowed....Period!! If I'm not mistaken Chrysler has been doing that for a while too...
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