Leaking Doug Thorley Headers. What to do?

29728 Views 194 Replies 41 Participants Last post by JauntyBishop, May 7, 2013

LoseMyMind

Discussion Starter · Jun 14, 2011

I bought a set of stainless ceramic coated DT headers in April. I installed them and I thought everythig was ok. In May I bought the uprev and did the logs so i could get my first map tuned. It turned out It looked looked like I had a leak on the left bank, So I took it back apart figuring I had messed something up when I installed it. Once I had it apart I could see the leaks and it was pretty clear why.

URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/268/img001hb.jpg/]

[/URL]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

So I called Nick at DT and told him what was going on and he said he wanted to get the header back so they could "fix" it. The problem with this is I live in Florida and its going to take 5 days for it to get to him, then they are going to have to fix it, then its 5 days back and I cant be without my truck for two to three weeks. So we agreed that they would get me a new one but they didnt have anymore so it would be about 5 weeks but he wanted me to call back after 2 weeks and see how things were going. I called again after 2 and a half weeks to check on things and Nick tiold me they were in welding and I should call again in a week and a half. So today I called and he tells me that he was wrong the that the headers being made now are the mild steel not the stainless and he still thinks I should send the one I have to him to have it fixed. I got really pissed because I paid alot for the headers and I just want them not to leak. I cant even get my e-tunes done because of the leak. Another problem is that it sounds like ****.
In his defense its only been 4 weeks so its not like its gone on longer then we agreed but today he didn't even give me a time frame for when I would get them.

I am asking you guys what you think I should do and am I wrong for being upset?

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 1

1 - 8 of 195 Posts

JauntyBishop

· #163 · Mar 14, 2013

So yeah check this crap out... I have a stupid exhaust leak on drivers side, and i think its coming the flange/gasket area. I thought it was CIS for the longest time after the exhaust shop did my B-pipes and Y-pipe setup, and it became more pronounced after i added a turndown.

So as you all know i removed turn down about 5 days ago. That didn't fix it as I can still hear the tick/leak when under part throttle loads especially next to cars and walls, drives me nutts!

So i got home yesterday left truck running and got underneath (yeah it was uber hot), i looked at B-pipe flanges, no soot or nothing,

I started revving the engine up and the sound got louder and fast coming up from the flange/gasket area of the primaries.

I really hope its just an exhaust bolt backin our gasket leaking and not the header cracked.

The crazy thing is, these headers look in great shape still as they are the first set from Doug Thorley and have been on since 11/09... yeah over 3.5 years no problems.

BTW the pictures posted in first page of this thread for comparison showing true oval ports are MY headers. Here ya go.

Link for proof http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-performance-modifications/101361-doug-thorleys-arrived.html

They were made 10/20/2009 and installed 11/2009.

These are the stainless steel ceramic coated first group buy versions I got for $575 shipped from Steven Conley of theconleygroup or whatever...

The exhaust shop didn't mess with the headers or 02s in the headers, they only swapped B-pipes as far as being that far foward.

So now today i gotta spray some soapy water down and find a leaf blower and blow some air up there or start the truck and see what i can find.

See less See more

Save

JauntyBishop

· #164 · Mar 14, 2013 (Edited)

OHHHH and by the way... I was looking at data logs from teh other night when doing some blasts 20-100mph and josh19k pointed out to me (thank god for his help lol)

THat my BANK 1 AFRs were a full point leaner VS bank 2 at WOT from like 4800-5500rpm.

BANK 1 was 12.8s vs Bank 2 11.7s-11.8s.

And the thing is, i'm not throwing one dayum code. WTF lol...

And it better not be that freakin Grounding Wire fix that goes from battery tray to engine block on passenger side..

Let me go outside and cuss at my baby and hope its not the header cracked. Otherwise, i'm gonna go broke again for JBA LTs...

Lemme say this, If i get some used Stillens (prefered) i'm cutting the collector off and welding a Vibrant or Burns 4 into 1 on there and gonna try and adapt 1-3/4 piping half way to get a somewhat stepped design, i'm gonna make it worth while lol. I Just really hope i don't have to do any of that honestly.

The thing that really sucks is that if it is a cracked header, that really blows because Doug Thorley doesn't make these anymore as the particular header I have was their best VK56DE design vs the new version that trys to fit both VK56DE and VK56VD (M56/QX56/Patrol). Horseshiit....

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 1

JauntyBishop

· #172 · Apr 30, 2013

Get the JBAs, for a proper 4-2-1 design ur not gonna find it from an off the shelf header. Granted I love my DTLTs especially since I got them from the group buy when they first came out.

If I had to buy again now, I'd just go with the titanium ceramic JBA LTs, Cajun catless 2.5s, Cajun Merge kit and borla XR1. Which I'll have all that soon except for the JBAs.

Save

Reactions: 1

JauntyBishop

· #175 · Apr 30, 2013

You def don't wanna step down to 2.25 if ur CVTCS. Because if u already have or will be getting headers, the collectors are 2.5". Get some more tuning doone and there are some 07+ specific newer timing and VTC maps available and u should be fine.

Leaking flanges are no good, but it happens, I'll stick with cajun bc of customer service and quality product. Plus the cajun merge kit is utilizing the best Y-pipe/merge design imo. Plus I try to keep parts all matched up. Just my personal preference tho.

Save

Reactions: 3

JauntyBishop

· #181 · May 1, 2013

And Jbowles saves the day! Lol. Yes Jbowles needs catless pipes, he keeps thinkin his truck is slow...lol.

And to the PRT leak issue, they look like great products and made out of quality metal. Every product will have an issue at some point, from there its up to the customer to get with the product supplier to rectify.

People will pick their loyalties to product suppliers by whatever means they decide.

parts don't sell themselves, the people do.

Save

JauntyBishop

· #189 · May 1, 2013

whoever decides to tackle a new header with 1-3/4 or larger primaries please just go ahead and use a burns or vibrant header primary merge collector lol that would've been a lot easier imo.

Save

Reactions: 1

JauntyBishop

· #193 · May 7, 2013

TA CC TX said:
Yep, I little more in cost but they put them on sale every now and then. And no extended wires with the sensor in collector. Chas posted some pics of true long tubes,if money was no concern I would want the custom built ones,,,, Well Hell Yeah!

Yes those from Chas at Tap that he posted were amazing, those are true long tube headers tri-y.

Can't wait to see what the M56 VK56VD does when someone bites the bullet and makes a set of true LT headers for it or the QX56.

These are what Long tube header design style should look like for the Titan or other VK56 platform as an OFF THE SHELF header. And in 1-3/4 diameter,

Yeah LGMotorsports

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 2

JauntyBishop

· #195 · May 7, 2013

IF there were 1-3/4 headers with a proper merge setup like the one above, i'd sell my DTLTs in a heartbeat to purchase new headers. There is power left on the table even with our current off the shelf headers if a better merge collector was used. Not to mention 1-3/4 primaries would be more than enough for even a cammed titan.

Save

Reactions: 1

1 - 8 of 195 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month