Leaking Doug Thorley Headers. What to do?

29726 Views 194 Replies 41 Participants Last post by JauntyBishop, May 7, 2013

LoseMyMind

Discussion Starter · Jun 14, 2011

I bought a set of stainless ceramic coated DT headers in April. I installed them and I thought everythig was ok. In May I bought the uprev and did the logs so i could get my first map tuned. It turned out It looked looked like I had a leak on the left bank, So I took it back apart figuring I had messed something up when I installed it. Once I had it apart I could see the leaks and it was pretty clear why.

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So I called Nick at DT and told him what was going on and he said he wanted to get the header back so they could "fix" it. The problem with this is I live in Florida and its going to take 5 days for it to get to him, then they are going to have to fix it, then its 5 days back and I cant be without my truck for two to three weeks. So we agreed that they would get me a new one but they didnt have anymore so it would be about 5 weeks but he wanted me to call back after 2 weeks and see how things were going. I called again after 2 and a half weeks to check on things and Nick tiold me they were in welding and I should call again in a week and a half. So today I called and he tells me that he was wrong the that the headers being made now are the mild steel not the stainless and he still thinks I should send the one I have to him to have it fixed. I got really pissed because I paid alot for the headers and I just want them not to leak. I cant even get my e-tunes done because of the leak. Another problem is that it sounds like ****.
In his defense its only been 4 weeks so its not like its gone on longer then we agreed but today he didn't even give me a time frame for when I would get them.

I am asking you guys what you think I should do and am I wrong for being upset?

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LoseMyMind

Discussion Starter · #161 · Sep 16, 2011

cater said:
LooseMyMind: You should change your signature to something like "Horrible Quality DT Long tubes"

Like This. Today I am going to join a camaro forum and let them know this happend to me. I will put up the link.

Shipwrech

· #162 · Sep 16, 2011

LoseMyMind said:
if he wont fix the shipping I am going to go on every forum for every car they sell headers for and do the same thing.

That Tundra forum is great.
did you see they started linking the comments on dt's website to your thread.

No I did not. Where can I go to see that? i have to admit that posting your troubles on the various forums in the last 2 days created a bigger "up roar" than anticipated. I think Nick's BS and DT's inferior product has cost them, what, 5 or 6 header sales in the last 2 days only????

SOLD!

2004 Nissan Titan LE CC 4x4

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JauntyBishop

· #163 · Mar 14, 2013

3

So yeah check this crap out... I have a stupid exhaust leak on drivers side, and i think its coming the flange/gasket area. I thought it was CIS for the longest time after the exhaust shop did my B-pipes and Y-pipe setup, and it became more pronounced after i added a turndown.

So as you all know i removed turn down about 5 days ago. That didn't fix it as I can still hear the tick/leak when under part throttle loads especially next to cars and walls, drives me nutts!

So i got home yesterday left truck running and got underneath (yeah it was uber hot), i looked at B-pipe flanges, no soot or nothing,

I started revving the engine up and the sound got louder and fast coming up from the flange/gasket area of the primaries.

I really hope its just an exhaust bolt backin our gasket leaking and not the header cracked.

The crazy thing is, these headers look in great shape still as they are the first set from Doug Thorley and have been on since 11/09... yeah over 3.5 years no problems.

BTW the pictures posted in first page of this thread for comparison showing true oval ports are MY headers. Here ya go.

Link for proof http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-performance-modifications/101361-doug-thorleys-arrived.html

They were made 10/20/2009 and installed 11/2009.

These are the stainless steel ceramic coated first group buy versions I got for $575 shipped from Steven Conley of theconleygroup or whatever...

The exhaust shop didn't mess with the headers or 02s in the headers, they only swapped B-pipes as far as being that far foward.

So now today i gotta spray some soapy water down and find a leaf blower and blow some air up there or start the truck and see what i can find.

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JauntyBishop

· #164 · Mar 14, 2013 (Edited)

OHHHH and by the way... I was looking at data logs from teh other night when doing some blasts 20-100mph and josh19k pointed out to me (thank god for his help lol)

THat my BANK 1 AFRs were a full point leaner VS bank 2 at WOT from like 4800-5500rpm.

BANK 1 was 12.8s vs Bank 2 11.7s-11.8s.

And the thing is, i'm not throwing one dayum code. WTF lol...

And it better not be that freakin Grounding Wire fix that goes from battery tray to engine block on passenger side..

Let me go outside and cuss at my baby and hope its not the header cracked. Otherwise, i'm gonna go broke again for JBA LTs...

Lemme say this, If i get some used Stillens (prefered) i'm cutting the collector off and welding a Vibrant or Burns 4 into 1 on there and gonna try and adapt 1-3/4 piping half way to get a somewhat stepped design, i'm gonna make it worth while lol. I Just really hope i don't have to do any of that honestly.

The thing that really sucks is that if it is a cracked header, that really blows because Doug Thorley doesn't make these anymore as the particular header I have was their best VK56DE design vs the new version that trys to fit both VK56DE and VK56VD (M56/QX56/Patrol). Horseshiit....

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trevorkavanaugh

· #165 · Apr 29, 2013

MilenkoGT said:
OHHHH and by the way... I was looking at data logs from teh other night when doing some blasts 20-100mph and josh19k pointed out to me (thank god for his help lol)

THat my BANK 1 AFRs were a full point leaner VS bank 2 at WOT from like 4800-5500rpm.

BANK 1 was 12.8s vs Bank 2 11.7s-11.8s.

And the thing is, i'm not throwing one dayum code. WTF lol...

And it better not be that freakin Grounding Wire fix that goes from battery tray to engine block on passenger side..

Let me go outside and cuss at my baby and hope its not the header cracked. Otherwise, i'm gonna go broke again for JBA LTs...

Lemme say this, If i get some used Stillens (prefered) i'm cutting the collector off and welding a Vibrant or Burns 4 into 1 on there and gonna try and adapt 1-3/4 piping half way to get a somewhat stepped design, i'm gonna make it worth while lol. I Just really hope i don't have to do any of that honestly.

The thing that really sucks is that if it is a cracked header, that really blows because Doug Thorley doesn't make these anymore as the particular header I have was their best VK56DE design vs the new version that trys to fit both VK56DE and VK56VD (M56/QX56/Patrol). Horseshiit....

Well I was getting really stoked on DT's 4-2-1 header design until I ran into this thread... WOW

Any more news on this milenko?

StormTroopin

· #166 · Apr 29, 2013

For what it's worth, I've never had an issue with my DT's in the two years I've had them... And yes, I have Uprev :lol:

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trevorkavanaugh

· #167 · Apr 29, 2013

StormTroopin said:
For what it's worth, I've never had an issue with my DT's in the two years I've had them... And yes, I have Uprev :lol:

Yeah man i hate these situations.. you got some people having so many problems and then others that love them :/

From everything I have read it seems like a 4-2-1 design would be better for my application (offroad) than the 4-1 because of the torque gains.. but I am also so new to this crap that I could be misinformed

Anyone have information about the differences between a 4-2-1 design and 4-1 design on our T's?

StormTroopin

· #168 · Apr 29, 2013

Did you read through the first posts? I think most of it was DT'S fault for sending the wrong shaped inlets, off the Mada's for our T's.

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trevorkavanaugh

· #169 · Apr 29, 2013

StormTroopin said:
Did you read through the first posts? I think most of it was DT'S fault for sending the wrong shaped inlets, off the Mada's for our T's.

I read most of it.. basically what I get is.. DT's are more expensive, have a 4-2-1 design, a lifetime warranty, but customer service is not on par?

This could be worth it to me if the 4-2-1 is really what I think its gunna be.. but if I am wrong and I could benefit more from a 4-1 that ends up being less expensive that could be a pretty viable option too..

I think my answer lies beneath a good explanation of the 4-2-1 tri-y VS the 4-1.. I just still don't fully understand which would be preferred?

StormTroopin

· #170 · Apr 29, 2013

There's dyno charts floating around somewhere, and I'm pretty sure the 4-2-1 had a tiny advantage. I wouldn't flinch at buying JBA's, I highly doubt you'll notice. JMO.

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trevorkavanaugh

· #171 · Apr 29, 2013

StormTroopin said:
There's dyno charts floating around somewhere, and I'm pretty sure the 4-2-1 had a tiny advantage. I wouldn't flinch at buying JBA's, I highly doubt you'll notice. JMO.

Lol i hate this im seriously about to flip a coin

got about a month to figure it out.. well see what happens

JauntyBishop

· #172 · Apr 30, 2013

Get the JBAs, for a proper 4-2-1 design ur not gonna find it from an off the shelf header. Granted I love my DTLTs especially since I got them from the group buy when they first came out.

If I had to buy again now, I'd just go with the titanium ceramic JBA LTs, Cajun catless 2.5s, Cajun Merge kit and borla XR1. Which I'll have all that soon except for the JBAs.

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trevorkavanaugh

· #173 · Apr 30, 2013

MilenkoGT said:
Get the JBAs, for a proper 4-2-1 design ur not gonna find it from an off the shelf header. Granted I love my DTLTs especially since I got them from the group buy when they first came out.

If I had to buy again now, I'd just go with the titanium ceramic JBA LTs, Cajun catless 2.5s, Cajun Merge kit and borla XR1. Which I'll have all that soon except for the JBAs.

thanks bro appreciate the advice!

i might drop my bpipes to 2.25.. i have prt 2.5 and i feel i lost a little down low

and the prt's are leaking out of a weld on the flange so i will be going cajun

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StormTroopin

· #174 · Apr 30, 2013

I wish I could tag Corky/Josh/Hemi in that post.... :rofl:

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JauntyBishop

· #175 · Apr 30, 2013

You def don't wanna step down to 2.25 if ur CVTCS. Because if u already have or will be getting headers, the collectors are 2.5". Get some more tuning doone and there are some 07+ specific newer timing and VTC maps available and u should be fine.

Leaking flanges are no good, but it happens, I'll stick with cajun bc of customer service and quality product. Plus the cajun merge kit is utilizing the best Y-pipe/merge design imo. Plus I try to keep parts all matched up. Just my personal preference tho.

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goree

· #176 · Apr 30, 2013

trevorkavanaugh said:
thanks bro appreciate the advice!

i might drop my bpipes to 2.25.. i have prt 2.5 and i feel i lost a little down low

and the prt's are leaking out of a weld on the flange so i will be going cajun

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What no pic's??? Post without pic's are worthless

StormTroopin said:
I wish I could tag Corky/Josh/Hemi in that post.... :rofl:

You rang????

goree

· #177 · Apr 30, 2013

I would suggest contacting PRT via phone, email, text, PM, USPS, and PonyExpress to resolve any issues you have with leaks. At least you won't have to worry about them rusting. :rofl:

trevorkavanaugh

· #178 · Apr 30, 2013

MilenkoGT said:
You def don't wanna step down to 2.25 if ur CVTCS. Because if u already have or will be getting headers, the collectors are 2.5". Get some more tuning doone and there are some 07+ specific newer timing and VTC maps available and u should be fine.

Leaking flanges are no good, but it happens, I'll stick with cajun bc of customer service and quality product. Plus the cajun merge kit is utilizing the best Y-pipe/merge design imo. Plus I try to keep parts all matched up. Just my personal preference tho.

oh well hmm probably just pick up another set of 2.5's from nightowl then.. i hear nothing but good things about his products

might have him put resonators in though.. bad drone right now

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trevorkavanaugh

· #179 · Apr 30, 2013

goree said:
What no pic's??? Post without pic's are worthless

you didnt ask

ill take one once the trucks off the dyno

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jbowles

· #180 · Apr 30, 2013

trevorkavanaugh said:
thanks bro appreciate the advice!

i might drop my bpipes to 2.25.. i have prt 2.5 and i feel i lost a little down low

and the prt's are leaking out of a weld on the flange so i will be going cajun

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I'll take those pipes off your hands if they're catless. How much shipped to 73135?

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