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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2013 SV non Rockford system and would like to install a line out converter behind the factory head unit. Can anyone point me to the right wires to install this thing. I have searched but have not been able to come up with a exact answer. Thankyou
 

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Discussion Starter #2
anyone?
 

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Best buy did mine for me. no help here lol
 

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I did mine, but I have a rockford system so I went straight off the sub wires. Pretty sure if you're going behind the HU you need to find the +/- for both front or back door speakers (only need one set) if I remember right. Could trail the wires from the speakers themselves back to the HU. I don't know if the non RF system has an amp in it or just runs off the HU.
 

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I ran a LOC on my non RF unit, but ran the wires from the speakers (actually ran them from the wiring harness in the door pillars, just before the speakers) back to the LOC and then wired it into my amp vs doing it behind the dash.
 

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To do this the 'clean' way (no cutting of existing wiring) you need the normal connector and the reverse connector to construct a wiring harness that will drop out the speaker leads between the HU and the factory wiring. By the way, you will need two of each of the connectors. The connectors do not contain all the pins necessary to get all the necessary connections between the HU and the factory wiring (there are three pins missing). take apart one pair of connectors to get the necessary pins to fill in the missing pins on the actual connectors used.

On the HU connector route the speaker wiring to the LOC which then feeds the amp. Route the speaker wiring from the amp back to the speaker connections going into the factory harness. You also need the amp turn-on line from the HU and power and ground for the LOC. Build the harness ahead of time and all that is necessary is to pull the radio from the dash, disconnect the main connector, plug in your new harness and reinstall the radio. Total dash being apart time is only a few minutes.

The pins missing from the standard connector are for the speed control volume line and the steering wheel controls.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks. i plan on just tapping into the oem harness and soldering the wires. what i need to know is what wires on the oem harness do i tap into?
 

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To obtain the wiring information I suggest going to Nissan Publications and for $20 you can sign up for 24 hours and download the shop manual for your vehicle. It will take about 20-30 minutes of your time but you will have a lot of info about your truck at your disposal.

Splicing into the audio wires only works if you disconnect the speaker end of the wiring somewhere. If you plan to install new speakers and do not use the OEM speakers you can run new speaker wiring and not use the existing.

However, if you plan on using the existing speakers and the wiring to them, it will be necessary to cut the wires going to the speakers. Route the HU end to the LOC and the speaker end to the output of your amp.

If the plan is to tap the rear speaker leads with the LOC, feed an amp from the LOC and new speakers for the amp and continue to use the OEM rear speakers - I would not recommend that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
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If you can find info on the Rockford version with pin locations in the connector, that data is the same.
The hardware of the in-dash box is the same for non-navigation without Rockford and non-navigation with Rockford.
The in dash box changes from non-Navigation to with navigation.

But the wiring colors probably change. so if you can find the connectors pin descriptions for system with Rockford, that will help you.
just check before hand to confirm. With an ohmmeter between + and - pins you should see 2 to 4 ohms. If you do you've got it right.

A comment on Eakes' posting... his way is clean and is a good way to go. But the non-Rockford vehicle wiring is made for max 45 watts from amp to speakers. if you're putting in a bigger amp to drive speakers in the existing location, you don't want to increase the power using the existing vehicle wiring.
Either limit those speakers to 45w, or run new wiring.
The risk is you can heat up the wiring at a high resistance point in the wire run (usually the connectors). Worst case is you melt the connector and risk a fire.
 
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