[gksmith]

I realized I was starting to hijack the other thread so I decided to start my own. Since this is going into a 2008 SE, I figure some extra pictures may come in handy for someone (or me if I have issues).

Anyway, I've started my install of the M&D DVD system. These are the first of the pictures. Due to the cold weather it probably take me awhile to get the whole thing installed (also, I'm having trouble getting the right monitor - see other threads).

The first picture shows the DVD player in the console without a custom bezel. The second shows the bezel I made (thanks to Pops for the suggestion of using ABS Installers plastic), the third is the how I mounted the factory DVD brackets (yeah, they came from Nissan this rusted).

The factory brackets were interesting because I had to remove two shorter screws that hold the face plate on and replace them with 2 longer ones that come with the DVD player for use with it's brackets. I didn't want to drill holes if possible so I figured this option would work well.

 

[HD Sinister]

I can't wait to see some more pics (when you get around to it). Really interested in geting the M&D system but a little nervous about doing any splicing. I think you got the wiring harness (from the other thread) and i would rather us that than splice. I'm planing on getting SAT installed to my HU so I hope the harness doesn't screw that up. Either way looks like your doing a jam up job so far. Good luck.

 

[gksmith]

Check the net for the PAC part and installation instructions. Once done it still gives you SAT and two AUX inputs - one for the DVD and one for something else.

Right now we're having an ice storm and getting some heavy snow so I don't think I'm going to get much done anytime soon.

I think my new monitor is coming in by Friday and if the weather is nice I hope to get more done.

 

[gksmith]

Ok, today I decided to try and put the DVD insert into the console and take a look to see if I have the factory DVD wiring. I removed the old insert and low and behold, I found something right where the wiring needs to go.

Anyone have an idea of what it's for? It doesn't match any image I've seen for a factory DVD harness. I have a truck manufactured 10/07 so it's almost a 2008.5 truck.

Also, anyone have good instructions for removing the console parts so I can see if I have a factory harness?

 

[gksmith]

I went to some other Titan sites and found some basic instructions for removing the console and figure out how to remove the two trim pieces. (I will have pictures tomorrow when there is more light).

Anyway, once I got the trim pieces off I looked for the hidden dvd harness and it's there. On my Titan it wasn't hidden behind the metal bracket but just hanging there.

I still have no clue as to what the cable in the bottom of the console insert is for but now that I have the harness located I can tie the M&D dvd player into the factory system.

 

[gksmith]

I borrowed a picture from llajumpvid on ClubArmada concerning the DVD harness and made a modification to the image. I did this because it took me awhile to figure out which two pins I needed to jumper. The wires on my connector don't quite match those on the ClubArmada instructions.

I used a PC board jumper. These are available from RadioShack if you don't have any laying around. They are called DIP Programming Shunts.

Now I'm wondering if the Blue Remote On wire for the M&D DVD power connector would work as the FES Enable. This way when the DVD is really on the HU would recognize it.

I don't know which of the two wires from the HU (FES Enable or Audio On) has power. One them must otherwise jumpering them together would serve no purpose.

 

[sliversurfer]

Great info & pic's GK ... keep them coming. I am waiting until this weekend to get back from overseas & install this on my too. Have you opened the overhead up yet to see what is all in there for "pre-wire" items?

 

[gksmith]

I got my "steel" colored monitor today and it's the correct color. It took about 2 minutes to install the monitor, however I still need to wire it up.

I still have an unidentified connector in the overhead console. Not sure what it's for.

For me, the way I remove the overhead console is to pull down on the rear to release the clips and then remove the two screws from the tray area. This allows the console to swing down.

I disconnected the wiring harness so that I could swap the tray and monitor inside where it was warmer.

 

[gksmith]

Here are a few pictures of the monitor installed. I haven't run the wiring yet.

I took one image from the front, one from the left passenger position, and one from the center passenger position.

The monitor does hang down a bit and while it doesn't block the entire rear view, it does cut down quite a bit, however, not enough to be unsafe. On my LWB, the rear or the truck is far enough away for me to still see under the monitor out the back of the truck.

THe car seats in the back of the truck also make viewing out the rearview mirror a pain. I'm glad I have the BT mirrors. Also, I'll be towing when the kids are probably watching movies and there isn't anything I can see out the rear window except the camper anyway.

 

[gksmith]

These are some pictures of my wiring job into the head unit. The first image shows my splices for the audio connection while the second image shows the +12v constant power connection.

Picture 3 is the rear 12v outlet. I used the black wire for ground and the blue wire for +12v ACC.

I also have a 170w game adapter coming from Myron and Davis. I hope to install the inverter under the passenger seat and the front plate featuring an AC outlet + 3 RCA connectors on the rear of the center console above the cup holders. I'm hoping that there is enough room - I felt around and there is a little bit of gap between the vent runs (picture 2, part that reads #72) and rear of the console (part facing the rear passengers).

Additionally, I want to get a video amp (or distribution) so that I can run the DVD output to 3 additional monitors. I will use 2 now for the headset monitors I got from Target and maybe someday add a 3rd monitor where the nav screen fits.

 

[gksmith]

The remaining pictures show my wire runs. After I ran the yellow wire for the constant +12v, I ran the audio cable. I found a better spot for the audio cable and kind of wish I'd moved the power wire. I left it in place because the location provided a nice spot for the fuse to sit. Both of the runs are by where the DVD player sets.

The picture with the blue crimp connector shows the location near the shifter where all the wires came out from the DVD console area. Any excess wires fit up under the dash.

 

[gksmith]

Since I haven't wired the video yet I decided to check out the audio to make sure things were still working. I also wanted to check out the Myron and Davis AE21 headphones.

The volume from the DVD player is low and it was suggested that a PIE LD-1 Adjustable line driver would do the trick. Since I don't want to have to remember to adjust the volume when I switch to the DVD player I ordered one of these. Not sure where I'll put it but it will probably go either under the passenger seat or hear the factory DVD harness connector.

The reception of the headphones is great. The only place I couldn't hear anything is outside the truck. I was able to have the front speakers play one thing and hear something else on the headphones.

I don't know if I have to disable the monitor IR signals yet. Some threads seemd to imply I needed to do this - while the M&D manual wants me to disable the Titan's IR signals.

 

[Pops]

That is looking AWESOME!!!!! The PIE LD-1 will fit inside underneath the rear of your Center Console if you remove the backside of it. That's where I have all of my junk stashed.

When you power up the monitor, it will probably interfere with the OEM IR. Someone had said that there was not a seperate plug for it on the new ANS190 like there is on my ANS178 so you might have to resort to covering those little IR transmitters with some tape or paint. Keep in mind that the sound is being transmitted through light so it's not like a radio, all you have to do is block the light.

 

[gksmith]

That is looking AWESOME!!!!! The PIE LD-1 will fit inside underneath the rear of your Center Console if you remove the backside of it. That's where I have all of my junk stashed.

I don't think I understood this. Remove the back side of what? Are you saying that if I remove the rear vents and such, I can slide the PIE up under the tray that the console screws into?

Have you removed the rear vent area? Is there enough space between the rear cover (part with vent) and the vents themselves (part #72 mentioned earlier) for the faceplate for the MYRON & DAVIS AGP178 to be installed?

 

[Pops]

Yep, I've disassembled almost my entire console using Courtesy's Diagram. I think there might be enough room for that inverter under there too. The cup holder is tricky, you have to open it and squeeze the top down while pushing hard on the top from the inside of the console to get it to pop out. I always feel like it's going to break but I've had it out at least 4 times and it's not broken yet. There is a screw that needs to be removed on the top over on each SIDE underneath those top side trim pieces then there are 3 more under the cupholder. The rest is held in by spring clips and I found it safer to push on it from the inside than to pull on it from behind. You'll see how you can push some things up underneath the bottom of the rear 1/4 of the bin once it's off and there's also a bit of space that piece covers up once it's put back on.

Part 96913M on this pic is what I'm talking about:

 

[gksmith]

I hadn't thought about there. I was focused on under the passenger seat for the inverter because of heat. I don't know how hot a 170watt one will get.

 

[gksmith]

I don't think I understood this. Remove the back side of what? Are you saying that if I remove the rear vents and such, I can slide the PIE up under the tray that the console screws into?

Have you removed the rear vent area? Is there enough space between the rear cover (part with vent) and the vents themselves (part #72 mentioned earlier) for the faceplate for the MYRON & DAVIS AGP178 to be installed?

Well, today was too cold to do any work - we had another ice storm - so I decided to take pictures of the AGP178 that I hope to install.

Picture 1 is a shot of the inverter.
Picture 2 shows the faceplace minus the cover.
Picture 3 shows the back side of the faceplate.
Picture 4 is a side view to show how much space is needed behind the faceplate. It's somewhere between an 1 and 1.5 inches.
Picture 5 is this odd AC cord which is not mentioned in the scanty install docs anyplace. I'm not sure what the purpose is.

 

[Pops]

Here, I finally found the thread I was looking for. It'll fit inside there just fine.

http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9299

 

[gksmith]

Here, I finally found the thread I was looking for. It'll fit inside there just fine.

http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9299

This was is way cooler and cheaper. I only have a 170 watt inverter not a 600 watt one. Plus, I hadn't thought about removing the parts from the game plate.

If I had seen this thread before hand, I might have just gone and purchased the parts.

Oh, well, I've already got it so I may as well use it. I'll have to see what I think of the look before I start drilling and cutting.

 

[Pops]

Sorry. I'd been looking for it since I saw your first post about it and finally got the search terms right for a hit. I should probably throw this in too just in case: http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9234