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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently purchased the 2.5" front end lift / leveling kit from NCD Customs for my Titan. I figured since I was doing the install myself, I would make a write-up with the directions and pictures to show a how-to for the guys who would like to save money and or are not confident that they can do it themselves. This project is really easy and takes pretty much basic garage tools.
The Instructions from NCD Customs are as follows (with my own input also)
12, 14mm sockets
19mm or 3/4" socket
17, 19mm wrenches
21, 22mm deep well sockets
11/16" wrench
Floor Jack
2 jackstands
1-2lb hammer
Torque wrench
( I found it to be helpful to also have a socket for every wrench size on hand)

1. "Before beginning, read the instructions carefully and completely.
Park the vehicle on level ground and firmly set the emergency brake. Place the transmission into PARK. For manual transmission equipped vehicles, it is recommended you place the transmission in REVERSE. Please pay close attention to the recommended torque values and use a torque wrench when final tightening of the fasteners is required. All torque ratings are given in FT/LB (foot pound). Using a torque wrench and the supplied torque values will ensure your vehicle's suspension is properly re-assembled and will reduce the chance of stripped or damaged fasteners."

2. "Jack up one side of the vehicle per manufacturer specifications and support with jackstands. Lift the front enough to raise the front tire off the ground. (IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME)." (TIP: I had put the truck in 4WD to keep the wheel from turning while removing the lug nuts)

3. Remove the front wheel using a 21mm socket

4. "Disconnect the lower swaybar link attached to the lower control arm using a 17mm wrench." (I prefer using a socket)

5. "Remove the large lower strut assembly bolt using a 19mm socket on the nut and a 19mm wrench on the bolt head." (or vice versa)
"NOTE: An impact wrench will be helpful to remove this bolt. It is very tight." (I did not have any issue at all removing this bolt out with a socket. IMO, it wasn't that tight).

6. "Remove the three upper strut nuts on the tower using a 14mm socket."

"...Remove and discard the cotter pin from the ball joint (new pins are supplied)."

"...Remove the ball joint nut with a 22mm socket or wrench." (same bolt that the cotter pin was in). "Smack the spindle near the upper ball joint with a hammer. The sharp vibration will cause the ball joint to pop loose from the spindle. This will allow the lower control arm to swing down allowing the removal of the strut assembly."

"Do not use a ball joint splitter(pickle fork) as you can damage the rubber boot that retains grease for the ball joint. Now lower the strut assembly down from the upper strut tower. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle. You should now be able to access the upper strut plate (top of strut)."

7. "Install one of the spacers on top of the strut. Use the factory nuts and a 14mm wrench..." (socket actually) "...to bolt the spacer to the strut torque the three nuts to 25 ft lbs."

8. "re-install the strut back in the upper strut tower, (you will have to rotate the strut 180 degrees in order to line up the studs) start nuts on the three studs that extend thru the tower. Use an 11/16" wrench and the nuts and washers provided in the kit. Keep loose until after next step. Torque 30 ft lbs. after next step."

9. "Jack up the lower control arm and raise enough to re-install the lower strut bolt. Torque to 120 ft lbs. torque nuts from previous step."

10. "Jack up the lower control arm and connect the upper control arm to spindle"

11. "Torque the upper ball joint nut to 90 ft lbs. Install the new cotter pins provided." (make sure that the threads are clean. If the spindle turns while re-installing the nut, make quick sharp turns of the nut to keep the spindle from spinning while tightening bolt.)

12. "Reconnect the lower swaybar end link. Torque to 35 ft lbs."

13. **skip step 13, it does not apply with my kit.**

14. Re-install front wheel and hand snug the lug nuts with a socket.

15. Lower vehicle and torque the lug nuts to factory spec (98 ft lbs for my truck). Repeat the whole proccess on the other side.

16, "ALIGN THE VEHICLE. Re-aligning the vehicle must be done to allow the suspension to relax to its proper ride height (the tires will be toed-in which will cause severe tire wear and will force the front to sit too high). Re-aligning the vehicle is required with any lift/leveling kit. Re-torque all bolts after 300 miles."

Just look at the ride height. This makes the Titan look tougher just by being a little higher in the front. It feels tougher sitting up higher while driving to. :lol:



I hope this helps anybody who is looking to this also.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just to review on the leveling lift kit. I haven't had ANY problems so far after about 550 miles after installation. The truck rides higher like it should have from the factory IMO. I had parked next to my boss' F-150 FX4 the other day and he said "Your Titan makes my Ford look puny". :cool:
 

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Nice write up!! Good job!
 

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It is a nice write up. One word of caution to other folks. The 2.5" level kit is only recommended for 2WD Titans. It has been known to cause the coil bucket to hit the upper control arm on the 4WD trucks. I don't mean to dump on the post, but I feel like that needs to be said.

Nice job on the write up and the pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I asked about that and they said that it was fine and that it was just a concern when the kit was new. I personally have had NO problem of the such.
 

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My question is now what tire size can I run with the 2inch lift and the 17 OR wheels. 35's maybe????
 

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Discussion Starter #7
BigJ said:
My question is now what tire size can I run with the 2inch lift and the 17 OR wheels. 35's maybe????
Depends how wide they are and what off set your wheels have. The site says the 2.5" lift kit (the one I have) "will easily fit 33" tires." I don't know what easily means to them, but it sounds like 34 or even 35 might fit. I would ask NCD about that first.
 

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Thanks for your help. I lifted my 04 with a Daystar kit when they came out, what a pain that one was taking apart the strut pack. It looked like back then a 35 might fit. I have the stock OR wheels just looking at options right now, the truck neeeds to fit in my garage here or I would go for a bigger lift. We get too much hail down here.
 

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I installed the NCD 2.5" on my Titan weekend before last. I’m very happy with the results. While the installation wasn't very difficult, your write up certainly would have been helpful.

You might want to add two more steps though. Install the new bumps stops and aim your headlights.
 

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The stock tires are right at 33 inches. There have been quite a few folks who've tucked 35's under a mini lift. Granted, they might have had to lose the front mud flaps and do the pinch weld mod. But it's been done.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Quartz said:
You might want to add two more steps though. Install the new bumps stops and aim your headlights.
I just might do that. Thanx
 

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Good write up.
 

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I thought the NCD kit didn't come with new bump-stops:huh: .
Nice write up:upsidedow .
Cheers, Lee S.
 

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Carbeaux said:
The stock tires are right at 33 inches. There have been quite a few folks who've tucked 35's under a mini lift. Granted, they might have had to lose the front mud flaps and do the pinch weld mod. But it's been done.
Just a dumb question, but why would you want to stuff a larger tire in there and possibly have to cut your truck to do so, when you really dont get alot more clearence, and what you do get you loose with tire rub when your romping. Is there something im missing? Please enlighten me.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
lee955i said:
I thought the NCD kit didn't come with new bump-stops:huh: .
Nice write up:upsidedow .
Cheers, Lee S.
They don't. They are sold separately, hence step 13.


rgregory1965 said:
Just a dumb question, but why would you want to stuff a larger tire in there and possibly have to cut your truck to do so, when you really dont get alot more clearence, and what you do get you loose with tire rub when your romping. Is there something im missing? Please enlighten me.
Larger tire diameters are good for off road because they have a bigger contact patch and they will raise the truck a little higher giving you more clearance, ie going from a 33" tire to a 35" tire will give you 1.5" more clearance which can mean the difference between get caught up on something and not getting caught up on something while off roading. Tire rub can be bad given the circumstances. Tire rub could cause you to rip off a plastic fender liner or cut a tire on your frame or suspension while turning. Cutting out some of the fender liner could keep you from getting tire rub
 

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I put this kit on my 07 cc 4x4 and my arms hit the coil bucket at full droop, which isn't much after the spacer is in. I have big speed humps in my neighborhood that I hit everyday and unless I crawl over the arms will hit and make a nasty noise. I took a look at the contact point and it isn't too bad so I may just grind it down a little and see how that does. The truck only has 2k miles on it so I am hesitant to start grinding on it yet. I did crawl on some rocks at the ranch yesterday and didn't get any contact with the arms.
 

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rgregory1965 said:
Just a dumb question, but why would you want to stuff a larger tire in there and possibly have to cut your truck to do so, when you really dont get alot more clearence, and what you do get you loose with tire rub when your romping. Is there something im missing? Please enlighten me.
Because it looks AWESOME!:teeth:
Seriously, it does.
 

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Z-Hauler said:
Just to review on the leveling lift kit. I haven't had ANY problems so far after about 550 miles after installation. The truck rides higher like it should have from the factory IMO. I had parked next to my boss' F-150 FX4 the other day and he said "Your Titan makes my Ford look puny". :cool:
yeah compare engines and he will say the same thing :cheers:
 

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Z-Hauler said:
ie going from a 33" tire to a 35" tire will give you 1.5" more clearance
correction: 1" more clearance 16.5" Radius vx 17.5" Radius Note that the MFG. claimed tire sizes are typically unaccurate, as some can be off by up to 1/2". Meaning that a 35" could possibly be a 35 1/2", etc.
 
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