Nissan Titan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
In the middle of the summer, my the cabin vents decided not to work. When I turn the air on, the vent to the windshield and footwell work but not the front cabin vents. Any ideas on what the problem could be? Any fixes? It's a 100 degrees plus here and a/c blowing towards passengers is a must. I don't want to pay the dealership $100 just to look at it. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I already answered you in PM but for anyone else having this exact problem it is the blower motor resistor and a easy fix it is located on the passenger side under the dash
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
Can I ask another question about this? My truck will switch between any of the vent locations with no problems. But if I turn the fan speed control knob to the off position, the air doesn't stop. It just redirects to the floor vents? Would this issue be resolved with this same fix?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,628 Posts
I already answered you in PM but for anyone else having this exact problem it is the blower motor resistor and a easy fix it is located on the passenger side under the dash
Not always the problem. There is also a problem with the actuator motor that changes the airflow from windshield vents to cabin vents.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,489 Posts
I have the issue where my airflow blows slightly in the floor position if everything is turned off. I keep meaning to check and see if switching it to recirculate will solve the issue, as I think it's just residual pressure coming through the system and leaking out the lower door.

I also have a door seal issue where I get defrost flow when I have the heat on the floor. May be designed that way from the factory but it wants the upper part of the cab a bunch before the footwells get warm, and its tough to get it adjusted properly. May have to go in the dash and see if there is an adjustment to the defrost/floor control door I can reach to change the airfhow a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
yes it could and I told him that when he pmd me if it was the actuator it would most likely be stuck in 1 position and the symptoms he described is exactly what happened to me when I had a bad BMR
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,628 Posts
yes it could and I told him that when he pmd me if it was the actuator it would most likely be stuck in 1 position and the symptoms he described is exactly what happened to me when I had a bad BMR
My BMR is OK.

My actuator motor sometimes gets stuck on defrost mode and sometimes gets stuck on cabin vent mode and won't switch between one or the other. Nowadays I just leave it on defrost mode because I live in a state with a winter climate.

I'm afraid if I leave it on cabin vent mode that one day it won't switch back at all.

Even when left on defrost mode the A/C cools the cabin enough on 90 degree+ days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I already answered you in PM but for anyone else having this exact problem it is the blower motor resistor and a easy fix it is located on the passenger side under the dash
Not always the problem. There is also a problem with the actuator motor that changes the airflow from windshield vents to cabin vents.
Is it the blend door actuator? Either way, the parts are $25 to $60 for them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,489 Posts
The trouble isn't the parts cost. It's getting to them to change or adjust them. It involves taking out the dash for at least one of them. Lots of disassembly azd reassembly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,628 Posts
The trouble isn't the parts cost. It's getting to them to change or adjust them. It involves taking out the dash for at least one of them. Lots of disassembly azd reassembly.
Exactly. That's why I now leave mine set at defrost mode for both A/C and heat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
PRJ is on it!
I just replaced mine yesterday on the 2005LE with the Rockford amp bracket blocking access to it
the PN: is 28843-ZP00A ($36 from Nissan dealer) it supersedes the 2005 titan Part number.
For me I could only choose foot vent or defrost modes. And I also heard clicking leading up to the point that it stopped working. If you chose not to replace it. You could rotate the white cam wheel manually with long needle nose pliers to get the air blowing out the main face vents.
Laying on driver floor mat-
-I removed the the accelerator 3 mounting nuts, move it to the side
-then unplug engine control module remove the 3 mounting bolts for it.
-Then you have access to the 3 remaining Rockford mount bracket bolts.. Unplug and Slide the amp out.
-now unplug the upper actuator and remove the 3 mounting fasteners . And pull the actuator straight out .

Getting the amp back in was a bit tricky.
It's a good job to do in the morning when it cool and bright enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
PRJ is on it!
I just replaced mine yesterday on the 2005LE with the Rockford amp bracket blocking access to it
the PN: is 28843-ZP00A ($36 from Nissan dealer) it supersedes the 2005 titan Part number.
For me I could only choose foot vent or defrost modes. And I also heard clicking leading up to the point that it stopped working. If you chose not to replace it. You could rotate the white cam wheel manually with long needle nose pliers to get the air blowing out the main face vents.
Laying on driver floor mat-
-I removed the the accelerator 3 mounting nuts, move it to the side
-then unplug engine control module remove the 3 mounting bolts for it.
-Then you have access to the 3 remaining Rockford mount bracket bolts.. Unplug and Slide the amp out.
-now unplug the upper actuator and remove the 3 mounting fasteners . And pull the actuator straight out .

Getting the amp back in was a bit tricky.
It's a good job to do in the morning when it cool and bright enough.
Where exactly is the white cam wheel located? Would you be able to take a picture?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
If you see the black plastic with the green Mark just behind that is the cam wheel and you can see that yellow grease that is what the cam wheel is coated with. Once you locate the actuator it is rotating on the actuator shaft. There is a gap you can pinch the cam wheel with the needle nose pliers go counterclockwise from this angle that will get it Air to come out the fwd vents.it may be hard to rotate the gears are jammed but my gears were broken so it was easy to rotate.
Will try to post more, seems I can only upload one pic at a time
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
If you see the black plastic with the green Mark just behind that is the cam wheel and you can see that yellow grease that is what the cam wheel is coated with. Once you locate the actuator it is rotating on the actuator shaft. There is a gap you can pinch the cam wheel with the needle nose pliers go counterclockwise from this angle that will get it Air to come out the fwd vents.it may be hard to rotate the gears are jammed but my gears were broken so it was easy to rotate.
Will try to post more, seems I can only upload one pic at a time
Is it above the gas pedal?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Yes it's above the gas pedal about the same level as the cigarette lighter outlet. It's the second actuator up from the floor vent on the driver side
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Resurrecting this old thread to help troubleshoot an issue I am having with my HVAC system. I have a 2004 titan with 175,000 miles. Overall, I have no complaints as it has been a good truck. I had that ECU relay fail, and a couple of rear axle seals, but other than that, its been a great truck.

At about 150,000 miles I had to have the HVAC blend door motor replaced as well as the cam on the blend door. I was getting the clicking sound from the HVAC system, which, as I have read, is not uncommon. Everything worked great until now.

The latest issue is I get a whooshing sound from the HVAC and it seems to not be able to lock into defrost or floor. If I run it on middle vents, it seems fine. If on the floor or defrost, it will blow well, then make a whooshing noise and the air flow decreases. Even when it seems to be working on floor or defrost, it ain't anything to write home about. Its working, but not great.

There is a separate motor that controls a floor blend door near the gas pedal. I replaced that motor but nothing changed. The blend door motor is "working" but not consistent or correctly.

Reading through this post, I am going to try changing out that blower motor resistor. Any other ideas or suggestions?

Any help is appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
As was suggested in this thread, I replaced the blower motor resistor. This is not just a simple resistor ($81 with tax). It is large and flat and mounts in the incoming air stream. I think it measures the incoming air stream temperature and changes the blend doors accordingly.

Its 29 degrees out today, but warm in my garage. I installed the resistor and took the truck for a test drive. Once in warmed up, I turn the heater on full on floor. for about 30 seconds I got full hot air at my feet. After about 30 seconds I got that whoosh sound again (blend doors moving) and now I was getting less heat at my feet but some in the defrost.

When I went to full defrost, the volume of air coming out of the defrosters increased markedly.

Maybe if it is cold enough out it is designed to always have some air in the defroster? Safety measure??

Anyway, the constant whooshing sound (blend doors moving) is gone. Everything is nice and consistent. Defrosters work great. Which is primary for safety.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top