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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All. I am new to the group and hope that you all can help answer some questions. I have a 2008 Titan that I bought from an individual several years ago. I am now getting ready to replace the shocks and needing some help figuring out what, if any mods were made to the suspension before I bought it. The truck sits level. I have attached photos of the measurement to the wheel well in the front and rear. It measures 39 1/2" to both. I've read where people were discussing installing leveling kits to make their Titans sit level. Is it safe to assume that one of those has been installed on my truck before I bought it? Is there a way that I can look and see if a leveling kit has been installed and if so then what specially am I looking for?

Thanks in advance for all your help.
 

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If there is a leveling kit installed, you'll be able to see the spacer up on top of the strut tower in the coil bucket. It'll be bolted into the top of it. Or, if the struts are silver like a 5100 Billstein or a Pro Comp whatever, it could be leveled that way. But it's pretty safe to assume that it's leveled either way if it's sitting level. The titan has some pretty good nose dive without some sort of leveling kit.
 

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I would say its level, front end usually sits about 38" on 08+ 4wd, and about 39.5 in the back
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the help with that. I assumed it had been leveled with a kit but I am no pro at this so I wanted to reach out in case there was something else happening that I didn't know about. I'm having a set of 5100s installed on my truck. Will I need the fronts to be installed on the lowest setting? If they are installed on the second setting would it require additional parts to accommodate for the height?
 

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My 15 sits at 39.5" with a 1" block in the back and 38.5 with bills on mid perch. If you lose the spacer that is on the front now mid perch should be fine. I suggest getting some extended bump stops as well, bills have a little more travel than stock. If you use the spacer I would use the lowest setting or you will probably need upper control arms.
 

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Yes, if you put on the Bilsteins, bottom setting only, middle setting would require new Upper control arms and bump stops
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you so much for the help. I'm starting to get a better understanding. Is it safe to assume that if I removed the spacer and went to the middle setting on the 5100 that it would provide a firmer ride vs. leaving the spacer and going with the bottom setting on the 5100?

If I wanted more lift and I did leave the spacer in and went to the middle setting on the front 5100, would i just need new upper control arms and bump stops? Is there anything else that I would need? Sway-bar links? Are the Rough Country Upper Control Arms any good at all? What kind of bump stops would you recommend?
 

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Yes the ride would be firmer with them set on the middle setting, RC arms are good ran them a few years before swapping to Dirt Kings. Sway bar end links would also be needed. The RC end links are ok, but I would suggest PRG endlinks, they have more articulation. You will probably need a rear block also (1") to keep you level if your going to put a 1.5" spacer and Bilsteins on the middle setting up front. Would also suggest Bilstein 5100 rear shocks too. For the bump stops Energy Suspensions 9-9101g you can find them on ebay, the bolt hole will need to be drilled out a bit after taking out the OEM ones
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Fish, which end links would I need? (PRG Nissan Truck & SUV Sway Bar End Links) or the (PRG Nissan Titan Extended Length Sway Bar End Links). Also, would I need cam bolts if I used my 1.5" spacer and set my 5100s to the middle setting?
 

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The regular PRG endlinks are the ones you need, the extended ones are for 6" lifts. Hard to say on the cambolts, I needed a set in one side when I did mine with the same setup so I have aftermarket ones on one side, OEM ones on the other, and a spare set sitting on my workbench...
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
That makes sense. Other than taking the truck to get the alignment, is there another way to know if I will need to order them? If I'm changing out the UCAs is there a negative to changing out both cam bolts even if I don't end up needing both?

Is there a billet 1" block that is any better than another?
 

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They have the bumpstops at Advance Auto and Autozone. They can search the part number.
Energy Suspension 9.9101G. I got a set for $8 iirc

I found the cambolts on Amazon for cheap. I just add to my list and wait for them to go on sale.
Moog K80276 Cam Bolt Kit

There is no downside to changing the cambolts. They are just adjustable where as the ones you MAY have now are not.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I know my original post was about 5 months ago. Just now getting around to actually finishing the work. As a review, bought truck from someone several years back and now replacing shocks. The truck in its current state sits at 39.5" front and rear. There's a 1" block in the rear that I'm assuming has been added and is not stock. The front shocks appear to be stock as they are black with no type of a plastic boot. I didn't notice a spacer in the front but I assume there must be one since the truck is sitting level. I installed 5100s on the rear. I have a set of 5100s for the front. I've been educated by some of you that if I run the shocks in the middle position that I will need new UCAs. I'm just confused that if the 1" block in the rear has been added and the truck sits level, would that require new UCAs and could the previous owner have already changed out the UCAs? I have added photos that may help.
 

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theres a leveling kit you can barely see it on the third pic.

you're good with those uppers to run bilsteins and the leveling kit together. if you want, you can run the 5100's on the middle setting for 1" of lift on top of whatever lift your leveling kit gave you but be warned, 5100's may act poorly i.e. bend, but me and fishnalaska have done that setup for probably over 100k miles between the two of us. Those look like SPC upper control arms? look like they've got plenty of clearance and an easily replaceable ball joint.

Make sure the front 5100's are installed correctly. theres a specific order/parts used/reused or else they'll come undone.
 

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Could possibly be 1st generation RC arms too, but those are definitely aftermarket UCA's
 
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Discussion Starter #16
With your help I'm starting to figure out what the previous owner changed out. Can you tell if these are factory end links or maybe RC?
 

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Those look like OEM
 
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once you get the 5100's installed you should ditch the sway bar. one less thing to make noise.
 

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once you get the 5100's installed you should ditch the sway bar. one less thing to make noise.
think i'm going to try this tomorrow after work. do i just completely remove the PRG endlinks and leave the sway bar as is? i'm wondering if going over train tracks will be better.
 

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think i'm going to try this tomorrow after work. do i just completely remove the PRG endlinks and leave the sway bar as is? i'm wondering if going over train tracks will be better.
yea you can do that to test it out. then if you like it, id remove it fully. idk if the sway bar will hit the LCA's or any other parts that move around.
 
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