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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought my 2011 Titan S (used) about 7 months ago. I made a few simple updates soon after I got it (listed below), but haven't done anything to it lately.

A big reason I'm joining Titan Talk is because I am currently experiencing a similar issue many other Titan owners seem to have dealt with (engine sludge). I want to research methods to resolve the issue, since Nissan refuses to take any responsibility for the issue even though the engine is still under the power train warranty mileage/time.



Updates:
- Added a Tonno Pro 42-400 Trifold Tonneau Cover (good for quick/ simple set up and removal)
- Installed a roof rack to go with my kayaking gear (Thule kayak rack & Inno kayak cradles)
- Thule TP54 54" Tracks (per the vendor, the Thule and Yakima tracks for this model are actually the same product with different stickers) (permanently attach to roof via rivets)
- Yakima Landing Pads
- Yakima Control Towers & Crossbars
- Tinted front windows to match the factory tint of the back ones
 

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I've never read anything about sludge in the engine. Never had that issue either but like above said always used synthetic
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I took my truck in to Nissan because it was blowing white smoke at start up, and they informed me that I needed a new engine because mine was sludged. I didn't know the "white smoke at start up" issue was common until I started researching through the threads/ discussions on here. A lot of folks state that cleaning the sludge out of the heads, replacing the valve covers and pcv valves, and doing an engine flush has stopped the white smoke issue. Others have also mentioned using Rislone Engine Treatment afterward as well to help dissolve the sludge.

As for Nissan's response to my engine sludge situation, they won't cover the engine replacement (even though the mileage and time frame still fall under power train warranty) because I don't have the oil change records of the previous owner to show that they were not negligent.
 

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I would ask another dealer or someone higher up. Or call Nissan.


PCV valves seems to be a big thing that has helped that issue. Did you try that yet?

Also, clean truck man. 2" leveling kit up front and some meaty all terrains would look killer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Honda250xtitan, a leveling kit and all terrains are currently on my short wish list. I think before I get to that I am going to black out the steel wheels (except for the lug nuts and center emblem).

I did try replacing the PCV valves since it was the cheapest of all the hopeful solutions. Unfortunately, the white smoke returned a day or two later. I have a few messages into one of the regional Nissan folks asking for their assistance as well. We'll see if that helps.
 

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Didnt know we had sludge problems... The only symptom is white smoke on startup? How can you differentiate between white smoke and just condensation?
 

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You might want to pull a car fax, a lot of times service history is listed in there if the previous owner had oil changes done at dealership or oil change places. Might be worth a shot as far as providing Nissan with documentation.
 

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Three things:

This is the first I've heard of any inherent Titan sludge problem.

Sludge isn't engine related. It's oil related. Using the wrong oil, certain brands of oil, or leaving it in too long and letting it cook, can contribute to sludge. Nissan, in my opinion, shouldn't have to warranty a sludge issue unless you can demonstrate it occurred while using the prescribed oil, proper change intervals, and everything was done according to Nissan's recommendations.

Now, as far as sludge is concerned, you don't need a new engine, most likely. What you need is to clean out the one you have. There are methods to do so, ranging from simple to complex, depending on how much sludge you're facing. I'd also ask if you've had the valve covers off and confirmed a bunch of sludge in the engine, or if you're just taking a tech's word (and did he have the covers off to confirm)? It may be that you have a different problem (valve stem seals, blown head gasket at the water jacket, bad rings) which is causing the smoke. Based on the new PCV valve fixing it for a few days, it may in fact be sludge. The only way to know for sure is a visual inspection. Once you know, you can do what is necessary to get it fixed. I suspect it's not nearly so serious as to require a new engine. Either that or there's a whole lot more to the story than I've read here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all of the feedback everyone. I have not reached the point of pulling the valve covers off yet; I'll be tackling that this weekend. I purchased the truck less than 10k miles ago and have changed the oil twice now (once right after I got it); I unfortunately don't know what kind of oil was used in it before I purchased it.

Once I get the valve covers off I'll post my findings and a few pictures in case it helps anyone in the future.
 

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I have the dealership I purchased the truck from contacting the previous owner to see if they have any records on file still.
Even if the previous owner can't find any records, I've also heard that just mentioning the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act to the service manager will sometimes perk em up a bit and make them a little more helpful.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Update:

I went ahead and ordered new valve covers, gaskets and new pcv valves (for good measure) with the plan of replacing them to hopefully resolve my issue with the white smoke at start up. We had a snow storm coming in here in Baltimore so I ended up getting my local shop to do the work for me since I knew the weather was going to be bad this weekend. They swopped everything out for me, and as of today it's been 2 days without a sign of the dreaded white smoke.

They also helped me with cleaning the heads while the valve cover was off (if you may recall my sludge situation) and did an engine flush for me. I've attached a couple pictures I took when I got to the shop. One is of the old valve covers, and the other is of some of the chunks of sludge they pulled off the covers. One odd thing the shop showed me was that it looks like the front of the valve covers is where it was sludging, not all over.

After everything my Titan is running better, sounds better, and isn't blowing the annoying white smoke!

Now it's on to some stuff that I'll actually enjoy, updating my tires! My current ones didn't do so well with all the snow we got this weekend.
 

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Jesus that's nasty
 

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Update:

I went ahead and ordered new valve covers, gaskets and new pcv valves (for good measure) with the plan of replacing them to hopefully resolve my issue with the white smoke at start up. We had a snow storm coming in here in Baltimore so I ended up getting my local shop to do the work for me since I knew the weather was going to be bad this weekend. They swopped everything out for me, and as of today it's been 2 days without a sign of the dreaded white smoke.

They also helped me with cleaning the heads while the valve cover was off (if you may recall my sludge situation) and did an engine flush for me. I've attached a couple pictures I took when I got to the shop. One is of the old valve covers, and the other is of some of the chunks of sludge they pulled off the covers. One odd thing the shop showed me was that it looks like the front of the valve covers is where it was sludging, not all over.

After everything my Titan is running better, sounds better, and isn't blowing the annoying white smoke!

Now it's on to some stuff that I'll actually enjoy, updating my tires! My current ones didn't do so well with all the snow we got this weekend.
The last owner or owners did not take very good care of that engine. I have seen VK's with over 200K with zero sludge . I would not pound on that engine too hard. to be safe!
 

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Could just be their choice in oil brand/type. I've seen certain brands put sludge up like that with 3k oil changes, and do it in under 50k miles. Easy thing to do is run a compression check and switch to using a good synthetic like Mobil1, and maybe the high-mileage version. See if you're burning any between changes (check it every time you fill up with fuel, right?) and keep an eye on the color between changes. You'll know in short order if that motor is still in decent shape. Good compression, no oil burning, doesn't get dark/burnt between changes (and change it around 3500-4000mi for a couple of iterations to establish what it's doing to the oil) and you should be fine. Now, if it's burning any, or gets too dark by 3500mi, you may want to start looking for a new motor sooner rather than later. Maybe pick up a used one and rebuild it, then drop it in. Can sell your motor to recoup some cost after the swap. But you may not need a new motor. I'd be surprised, in fact.
 
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