This is a greasing question, not a 4x4 question per se. Generally speaking, grease at each oil change or before and after going off road. Usually, just 3-5 squirts of a grease gun is sufficient. You want to see the grease just start to come out. You will not accomplish much more by still pumping after grease appears at the seal, except to stretch the seal beyond what is needed.
new u joints with zerks how do I grease them?
Had to get new u joints at 64K. Spicers with zerk fittings were installed. I was told they would be better (since I like to drive thru the mud) and can be regreased via the zerk. I've never done it before and can't find a straight answer on the PROPER way to do it or how often. Buddies have told me grease until it comes out all four seals to purge the bearings others have said to be very careful not to over grease because the seals can be damaged-ruining the u joint! SOMEBODY THAT KNOWS ABOUT 4x4's PLEASE HELP!!:huh:
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appreciate the info! Thanks! If you have 4WD than you know how much it sucks having to replace the extra u joints. I just want to be sure I don't have to spend the money again!
Good advice.This is a greasing question, not a 4x4 question per se. Generally speaking, grease at each oil change or before and after going off road. Usually, just 3-5 squirts of a grease gun is sufficient. You want to see the grease just start to come out. You will not accomplish much more by still pumping after grease appears at the seal, except to stretch the seal beyond what is needed.
You need to make sure you get a grease gun w/ hose and w/ fitting that can get onto your zerks. Some grease guns come with big fat A$$ tips that are sort of useless for some U-joints.
Got a grease gun and tried it out this afternoon. Mine has the fat head you were talking about. Doesn't fit!! I thought this was going to be simple!
My stock U-joints starting seizing around 62K just out of warranty.
The U-joint was causing a very slight vibration at very slow speeds in parking lots like 5mph and would disapeer once you turned on the 4X4 going in a straight line. When I pulled the front drive shaft down it was the front U-joint by the front diff and the factory U-joint bearings were very dry and the one causing the vibration was rusty. I live in AZ so its fairly dry but I did play in the snow alot because I was in Northern AZ. I replaced the U-joints with so called better ones from NAPA with zerk fitings and they lasted about 20K and the rear one came apart while driving down the highway at 70 after playing offroad. The U-joints I ver rarely greased them because I only greased them when installing and once after that so if was caused by me.
The new U-joints I installed on Wednesday and this time I got the Super strong ones with zerk fittings from NAPA.
The U-joint was causing a very slight vibration at very slow speeds in parking lots like 5mph and would disapeer once you turned on the 4X4 going in a straight line. When I pulled the front drive shaft down it was the front U-joint by the front diff and the factory U-joint bearings were very dry and the one causing the vibration was rusty. I live in AZ so its fairly dry but I did play in the snow alot because I was in Northern AZ. I replaced the U-joints with so called better ones from NAPA with zerk fitings and they lasted about 20K and the rear one came apart while driving down the highway at 70 after playing offroad. The U-joints I ver rarely greased them because I only greased them when installing and once after that so if was caused by me.
The new U-joints I installed on Wednesday and this time I got the Super strong ones with zerk fittings from NAPA.
Just like with your old lady [ A few pumps and your good ] . Hahaha Sorry had to do it ..
Am I understanding correctly, NAPA sells 2 qualities if U Joints? How are they labeled? Prices were like what?My stock U-joints starting seizing around 62K just out of warranty.
The U-joint was causing a very slight vibration at very slow speeds in parking lots like 5mph and would disapeer once you turned on the 4X4 going in a straight line. When I pulled the front drive shaft down it was the front U-joint by the front diff and the factory U-joint bearings were very dry and the one causing the vibration was rusty. I live in AZ so its fairly dry but I did play in the snow alot because I was in Northern AZ. I replaced the U-joints with so called better ones from NAPA with zerk fitings and they lasted about 20K and the rear one came apart while driving down the highway at 70 after playing offroad. The U-joints I ver rarely greased them because I only greased them when installing and once after that so if was caused by me.
The new U-joints I installed on Wednesday and this time I got the Super strong ones with zerk fittings from NAPA.
At work, most of our chassis work in sublet, but some basic parts/supplies we buy from Federated, NAPA is a bit further away.
Try and find Spicer u-joints..... Far and away the best on the market. Make sure the Spicer joints you get have the blue colored seals, that indicates a better hardening process than the ones with the black seals.
I believe the ones I have now are made by Precision but I will have to check. And from NAPA or Checker (Orielly) they both have 3 different strength ones.
Botom of the line non Zerk then they have heavy duty ones with zerk and one step up that had zerk fittings in the very end by the cap but I couldnt get the little spring clip in with those so I brought them back and had to go with the Heavy duty ones I would much rather have the Spicer ones though these were all they had though.
Botom of the line non Zerk then they have heavy duty ones with zerk and one step up that had zerk fittings in the very end by the cap but I couldnt get the little spring clip in with those so I brought them back and had to go with the Heavy duty ones I would much rather have the Spicer ones though these were all they had though.
Put some grease on your pinky finger, and apply grease in a circular motion inside each of the four caps before knocking them in to place. This helps for initial lubrication and tends to hold the needle bearings in place as you hit the caps in place.
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