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do you have it hooked up through the widow switch with auto bottle opener heated bottle and WOT switch to activate? how much did you pay for the whole schabang?
 

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i like the dry shot because it lets the injectors do its own thing the only thing u can control is the noz so it seems good .my bro had the wet kit i lovedd the dry kit alott more
From that statement right there I don't think you understand what is going on in the engine and what is 'safe' and what is 'pushing it....'

I think you are confused....
Most of the time your A\f ratio drops to the LEAN when using a dry system and that fries valves, for safety a wet shot is best.

Especially if you plan on using it often or a few times a month, a dry shot will f your engine up if you aren't VERY careful and monitor manifold temps and exhaust temps.

I don't recommend a dry shot unless its going to be used under the realization you are putting your engine at risk more so than a wet shot.

In either system the 'injectors' 'do their thing' but with a wet system you can make more power with less nos due to it introducing more fuel and burning in the 13.-15 range to keep the intake temps down allowing you to run it longer.
 

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Next year I'm hoping for a 75 shot:) I hope to hit the 13.3 range with it!
 
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+1 ^^ to the 75 shot
 

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LOL F IT ILL DO A 100 THAN! before the new year u just watch! :eyebrow:
 

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From that statement right there I don't think you understand what is going on in the engine and what is 'safe' and what is 'pushing it....'

I think you are confused....
Most of the time your A\f ratio drops to the LEAN when using a dry system and that fries valves, for safety a wet shot is best.

Especially if you plan on using it often or a few times a month, a dry shot will f your engine up if you aren't VERY careful and monitor manifold temps and exhaust temps.

I don't recommend a dry shot unless its going to be used under the realization you are putting your engine at risk more so than a wet shot.

In either system the 'injectors' 'do their thing' but with a wet system you can make more power with less nos due to it introducing more fuel and burning in the 13.-15 range to keep the intake temps down allowing you to run it longer.
He may not know what's going on inside his engine but you don't know how a dry shot or nitrous in general works.

Dry shots are injected BEFORE the MAF. So the ECU reads the MAF hotwire and the sudden drop in temperature, then increases the pulsewidth and adjusts the timing thus richening up the A/F. The only problem with this method is it has it's limitations. The ECU can adjust only so far. The fuel pump can only push so much along with the injectors. I think the maximum for a dry shot on the stock pump/injectors should be a 100 shot.

And what do manifold temps have anything to do with nitrous? Nitrous cools **** down. Have you ever touched a aluminum manifold after a 150 shot? It's lukewarm to the touch. Now EGTs are a completely different story but unless you have a probe in all 8 exhaust ports then it's a waste of time. Better to get a wideband and read it that way.

A WET system doesn't make more power then a DRY shot. A 50 shot dry will get the same power as a 50 shot wet. Only difference between them is that you can run MORE nitrous on a wet shot safely. The 150 dry guy can even go far enough to run an independent fuel system and run methanol through the fuel side for even more added safety. The only limitation on the duration of time that you can run nitrous isn't up to whether or not it's a wet or dry system. It's up to solenoids and the car. Solenoids can handle so much before they fry. Most manufacturers will say 20 seconds at most. You can spray longer but you better be tuned for it. The longer you run it, the slower your engine accelerates and the higher the loads are. The nitrous spray doesn't slow down. It sprays a continuous spray from beginning to end. So the faster you run it the more you risk running lean and blowing your motor.

The general rule of thumb for nitrous is -2* and one step colder plug for every 50 shot. But I got away with -2* and a -2 step colder plug on my Altima with the 175 shot. But this was also on methanol.
 

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iv seen and felt what the wet kit dose its alott more weak still makes u go faster but not the same as a dry kit is the way to go if u wana spray it will make u go from 0-hero in a second ;p .. i can go 40mph hit the button and spin those tiers and shottt offf
 

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From that statement right there I don't think you understand what is going on in the engine and what is 'safe' and what is 'pushing it....'

I think you are confused....
Most of the time your A\f ratio drops to the LEAN when using a dry system and that fries valves, for safety a wet shot is best.

Especially if you plan on using it often or a few times a month, a dry shot will f your engine up if you aren't VERY careful and monitor manifold temps and exhaust temps.

I don't recommend a dry shot unless its going to be used under the realization you are putting your engine at risk more so than a wet shot.

In either system the 'injectors' 'do their thing' but with a wet system you can make more power with less nos due to it introducing more fuel and burning in the 13.-15 range to keep the intake temps down allowing you to run it longer.
all i need is colder sparkplugs and a custom uprev tune so my motor wont be so much at risk but trust me it can handle the noz
 

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getting more serious about NOS do they make a specified kit yet for the T of are they all still "universal" also anyone know if i can e-tune with it?
 

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Yes you can E-tune. The kit I used was an NY-Trex that had come off a Corvette. $400 included everything but the RPM sensor, and progressive window switch that i installed. The Progressive Window switch was about $200. I never had a bottle heater or purge, which would have made my kit much more efficient. I did it ghetto style with a torch to heat up the bottle.

And it was very fun
 

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hell yeah thanks 0-five! so if i bought a kit off of my350z or g35driver i should be ok with that setup yeah? i found a few really good deals over there with a purge and bottle warmer. i need to figure out what window switch and rpm sensor to buy.....hoping to have this done by the new year....0-five would you mind calling me?
 

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Dynotune makes a great window switch/RPM/TPS switch. I'm going to be installing their two-stage unit to manipulate the boost-a-pump with their second stage control. You can also use it for methanol injection control if you decide to go that route with the nitrous.
 

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I bought the Zex Nissan Titan specific kit, its been awesome! So Awesome im going on my third transmission, so i suggest you keep it under 70, or uprev tune with the tranny line pressure tune. Uprev is a must if you are spraying anything worth spraying. if your wondering, i have a bottle heater and TCWS.
 
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Heat is the major killer of these transmissions, especially if you're spraying through the shifts. The ZEX kit usually only comes with a TPS/WOT switch so you'd be putting a lot more strain on the transmission by only doing that. That's why I have my window switch over-ride the WOT switch since it's more important. Even though I'm running the UPREV transmission line pressure tune I could probably run without it with all the other stuff I have done: PML pan, massive transmission cooler with fan set at 200 and all transmission lines swapped out to stainless steel. Then again I have to overkill my setup to be able to withstand my intended 175 shot setup.
 

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Lol nice. I talked to one of the guys selling a zex blackout kit said he would take 250 then I ness all the switches bottle warmer and purge valve right? Are you guys able to mount it behind the back seat or having to take the seat out? Guy said he sprayed the kit 3 times think I should go for it? I def don't want to be burning through trannys though haha are you getting those replaced under warranty?
 

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I had no trans issues, but I was also not spraying through shifts. I had the Window switch shut down Nitrous at 5800 RPM, just to be safe. I had the trans-go, and was pretty good about swapping trans fluid, that's really all I did. I sprayed numerous times. My last time out at the track with the truck, I sprayed 1 100 shot and 3 125 shots back to back and it never gliched. What does the blackout kit come with? I know I posted one, but didn't look too close. Good things to have would be bottle, lines, fuel and nitrous solenoids, Nitrous jets. There could be some other stuff, but it's fun picking out your own Window switch, purges, and heaters. If it comes with a purge and heater as well, then that's a big plus. I had to 2 worm clamps around the bottle, mounted at a 45 degree angle on a piece of wood. Toomnymods told me to face the top of the bottle backwards, so when your at WOT, all the Nitrous in the bottle gets pushed back into the opening where the lines feed in. Instead, with the top of the bottle pointed to the windshield, when you have less then a full bottle, all the nitrous can get pushed back to the back of the bottle....That's just what he told me, it made sense I guess.
 

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I had no trans issues, but I was also not spraying through shifts. I had the Window switch shut down Nitrous at 5800 RPM, just to be safe. I had the trans-go, and was pretty good about swapping trans fluid, that's really all I did. I sprayed numerous times. My last time out at the track with the truck, I sprayed 1 100 shot and 3 125 shots back to back and it never gliched. What does the blackout kit come with? I know I posted one, but didn't look too close. Good things to have would be bottle, lines, fuel and nitrous solenoids, Nitrous jets. There could be some other stuff, but it's fun picking out your own Window switch, purges, and heaters. If it comes with a purge and heater as well, then that's a big plus. I had to 2 worm clamps around the bottle, mounted at a 45 degree angle on a piece of wood. Toomnymods told me to face the top of the bottle backwards, so when your at WOT, all the Nitrous in the bottle gets pushed back into the opening where the lines feed in. Instead, with the top of the bottle pointed to the windshield, when you have less then a full bottle, all the nitrous can get pushed back to the back of the bottle....That's just what he told me, it made sense I guess.
That's a common misconception but you want the valve to be facing the front of the vehicle due to the siphon tube inside of the bottle. You also want the valve opening where the nitrous line attaches to be facing downwards because that siphon tube goes down at an angle to ensure that it can get to all the nitrous, even with a near empty bottle.

This is to all those that are interested:

Nitrous is very simple and so long as you ensure that detonation doesn't occur during the run also very safe. All it is is just nitrogen and oxygen. At the combustion cycle the molecules separate. So inside the cylinder you get more oxygen and some nitrogen which helps to dissipate some of the excess heat caused by the separation. With most wet nitrous setups fuel is added in with the nitrous to compensate for this additional oxygen. With dry setups you typically want to increase fuel pressure.

Very simple to setup and work with. But you want to make sure you take some extra precautions when working with nitrous. In all of my setups I always ensured that I would always have extra fuel regardless of whether it was a dry setup or a wet setup. You typically want to run your nitrous setup at 11.0:1 and richer. Some will say run it leaner at 12.5:1 but the ONLY time I ever ran a setup that lean was when I was running a supplemental (secondary) fuel system devoted solely for the nitrous system. It was running 116 octane methanol.

Why do you need bottle warmer? Nitrous while it's in the bottle is in a liquid state. When it's being injected into your intake you want it in a gaseous state. Now without a bottle warmer you're getting less of the gas because of less pressure which means less power. For any setup I would suggest tossing the -4AN lines most street kits come and replacing it with a -6AN line. Buy a DynoTune adjustable nitrous bottle warmer kit and set it up to 1000PSI straight. The -6AN line will keep your nitrous pressure higher for a longer duration during the run and the bottle warmer is self-adjustable. Meaning it will keep the pressure at 1000PSI. So no worries about popping the over-pressure valve and wasting nitrous.

Some ways to prevent detonation is to retard timing, run one to two step colder plugs and run 92+++ octane. I would NEVER make back to back runs on nitrous without at least a 2-3 minute rest break in between. Even on the dyno I would take a 5 minute break in between runs to ensure that cylinder temperatures don't get too far out of hand and cause pre-detonation. Remember to gap the plugs slightly less then stock. I kept my plugs at .038" without any problems. Stock is .044". Also remember that 4th gear is the LIMIT! Do NOT run nitrous into the higher gears due to loads. Too high of a load and you run the risk of running lean. Remember that yours truck's acceleration will slow at higher speeds. Nitrous doesn't slow down. It continues to spray the same amount regardless.

Some other suggestions I would give is run an all in one unit for TPS/WOT/Window switch. This will save you a TON of wiring. I personally would skip buying a pre-built factory kit and piece together my own. Some products/manufacturers I would suggest:

NOS Cheater Fuel Solenoid
NOS Super Pro Shot Nitrous Solenoid
-6AN Feed Line for both fuel & nitrous
DynoTune -4AN to -3AN nozzle lines (-4AN lines, -3AN ends)
Nitrous Outlet Predator Nozzle
Dynotune Automatic Bottle Warmer
Dynotune Two-Stage Window/TPS Switch
NOS Bottle with Hi-Flo Valve
Nitrous Express Nitrous Filter & NOS Fuel Filter

Very simple setup that will out-perform just about any other kit out there.


And this is how far you can go with nitrous. This is the direct port setup I had on my Altima.
 
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