[berto07T]

Just yesterday I went to the store when I got back in the truck I had no audio. the head unit is on and works fine and the subs work as the bass of whatever is playing in the radio is hitting. But no audio from the door speakers. The truck came with an in dash milion brand and I think boss aftermarket door speakers and tweeters on the dash. when I came home with it I already knew it was a piece of crap. It's slow and bad graphics the cd/dvd doesn't work nor the iPod connection no gps only radio stations Bluetooth and sd card, even the rear camera has to be turned on manually through the head unit lol takes forever to read the sd card but it did its job so I was just going to wait till it crapped out which I think it did because of the problem I'm having. Took it to a stereo shop and they said it was the head unit because my subs are still playing, but My subs are hooked up to the head unit via rca's and remote wire so im not sure Im not big on radio electronics more mechanical stuff so not sure how to tackle this one. I've already taken the stereo out and checked for any ripped cut wires or loose connections and everything is good. And it isn't a hack job they used a harness from what I can see.

 

[Tritonus]

you need to test the speakers not the HU.
Search how to test them if they are blown.

I don't know but from my experience, the speakers are most likely blown. Boss are crap.

Try these instead.https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/auto-kits/scanspeak-discovery-820013-6-autosound-system-pair/

 

[berto07T]

Well I didn't test it I just took it to a stereo shop cause I'm not too handy with car audio systems except installing subs and amp which is easy. the truck came with those crappy boss speakers but how would they all go bad at once including the tweeters in the dash?

I had installed some alpine in my Chevy forgot what models I loved the way those sounded they could get loud and not distort very clean sound will probably get those again if I end up having to get a new head unit.

 

[Blackbeauty]

It almost sounds like it could be the amp... You can test things yourself with a little common sense. Here's one good link to start... there are also a few decent Youtube vids...

Troubleshooting Car Audio Speakers

 

[Tritonus]

how would they all go bad at once including the tweeters in the dash?

That is a good question. I still think it is possible. In my passive system, both L and R rear speakers blew at the same time. I also once had both headlights go out at the same time. Power surge?

Are the tweeters powered by the same power line as door speakers?

 

[DeadRiver]

That is a good question. I still think it is possible. In my passive system, both L and R rear speakers blew at the same time. I also once had both headlights go out at the same time. Power surge?

Are the tweeters powered by the same power line as door speakers?

are you sure you're good at wiring?

 

[berto07T]

The subs are on their own amp and work fine. The door speakers are powered from the head unit(so I think I haven't found any other amp besides mine for my subs)


Edit***they started working again today w**?

 

[Blackbeauty]

Ok... THAT sounds like a loose connection...

 

[berto07T]

Where should I start checking? I don't think it can be a connection to one of the speakers or else only that one single speaker would no sound correct? but they all cut out till today. I popped of the dash and took the stereo out and made sure everything was snug but there's dozens and dozens of wires back there lol but only on larger pigtail that goes from the radio to the trucks harness I guess.

The stereo shop guy had said that since its older it could've over heated and caused the built in amp to go into protective mode cause there's no flowing air back there just the heat from the motor that makes it through the firewall. He said some people even install small computer fans back there blowing towards the stereo.

 

[mbquart1]

I don't know anything about the HU you have, but if you have a short on a speaker wire the radio could be going into protect and shutting down the internal amp which would cause everything but the subs to quit. You would think it would display something when it does tho.. But if it's cheap it may not.

 

[berto07T]

So the overheating thing is crazy? Or is it possible. I guess I'll tackle sometime this week. Checking the wires. Or is there an easier way to check if one of the speakers is shorting out ?

 

[mbquart1]

Is it overheating??

 

[berto07T]

No but how could you tell when 90% of the head unit is in the dash. The stereo guy told me that it probably over heated and either went to protective mode or fried something and to give it some time and if it did just go into protective mode it'll come back which it did. I drive my truck for work every day for at least 7-8 hrs constant so the engine bay and the firewall behind it can get pretty hot if guess. Cause today everything was working fine and after shutting it off the back on it stopped working again, got to my next destination turned it off did my thing got back in and I have audio again

 

[mbquart1]

I think it an intermittent short on a speaker wire or bad HU

 

[Walrus]

I don't know anything about the HU you have, but if you have a short on a speaker wire the radio could be going into protect and shutting down the internal amp which would cause everything but the subs to quit. You would think it would display something when it does tho.. But if it's cheap it may not.

Listen to this guy. He knows his stuff.

 

[berto07T]

So update I took it to a different shop I've been to where they do real good work and he said its also the head unit. He looked it over for like an hr all the speakers, wires, and head unit said no clipping or weird sound from door speakers no short from them he said since the indash is a cheap knock off That the previous owner installed most of them put out low power and the door speakers are 6x9's so since I play music pretty loud through out the day the head unit can no longer keep up feeding the sufficient wattage the speakers are pulling and it's going into protection mode. Which he was surprised cause it's cheap he said lol so he said to keep the volumes down till I can get a replacement head unit and I should be good to go just plug and play unless since it was a cheap knock off they used European harness? I think that's what I heard.. Anyways so I guess time to shop for a different head unit. I kind of want to swap out the door speakers too I'm pretty sure they're a cheap brand too. Any good suggestions on a head unit that has high resolution and the usual goodies that isn't 500$+ he had a le wood one for I think 300$ looked nice but never had kenwood only oem, pioneer and alpine. I've had really good experience with alpine but they were just regular single din stereos. Im probably going to do alpine 6x9's so something that can handle that not sure if I want to deal wit wiring up another amp

 

[mbquart1]

The Kenwood will be fine.
Asking what head unit to get on here is like asking what's the best food. Everyone has a preference. As
Long as you stick with a major brand (Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer, Clarion) you should be fine. Try to stay away from Power Acustik, Boss, Dual. Or and cheap brand. Remember you get what you pay for in most cases.

 

[berto07T]

Haha very true. So with 6x9's how much wattage should my head unit push to make them sound good? Trying to decide if keep the speakers now till they crap out since they're cheap brand or swap out for alpine to match the subs or jbl.

 

[mbquart1]

It's depends on the 6x9. You have to
Look at the nominal power rating on it

 

[berto07T]

So update I installed a new pioneer head unit with new pioneer speakers to match and haven't had problems since! And man what a difference in sound and sound quality! I picked up the avh-x2800bs it's a pretty nice looking head unit with a decent amount of features and a ton of settings wow it gets overwhelming lol I was use to the single din setups. I keep reading that you can add your own picture to the background too Ima have to try and figure that out that's pretty cool.

Also is there a way to wire the rear view camera to come on automatically when I switch to reverse but also be able to turn it on manually from the head unit with out being in reverse? The harness has a reverse signal wire that i guess you tap into the taillight wire ? But which wire?

But then where do I tap in the power wire for the camera? Thanks guys I'll post up pics tomorrow