No audio from door speakers only subs

5144 Views 34 Replies 7 Participants Last post by mbquart1, Aug 19, 2016

berto07T

Discussion Starter · Jul 31, 2016 (Edited)

Just yesterday I went to the store when I got back in the truck I had no audio. the head unit is on and works fine and the subs work as the bass of whatever is playing in the radio is hitting. But no audio from the door speakers. The truck came with an in dash milion brand and I think boss aftermarket door speakers and tweeters on the dash. when I came home with it I already knew it was a piece of crap. It's slow and bad graphics the cd/dvd doesn't work nor the iPod connection no gps only radio stations Bluetooth and sd card, even the rear camera has to be turned on manually through the head unit lol takes forever to read the sd card but it did its job so I was just going to wait till it crapped out which I think it did because of the problem I'm having. Took it to a stereo shop and they said it was the head unit because my subs are still playing, but My subs are hooked up to the head unit via rca's and remote wire so im not sure Im not big on radio electronics more mechanical stuff so not sure how to tackle this one. I've already taken the stereo out and checked for any ripped cut wires or loose connections and everything is good. And it isn't a hack job they used a harness from what I can see.

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berto07T

Discussion Starter · #3 · Aug 1, 2016

Well I didn't test it I just took it to a stereo shop cause I'm not too handy with car audio systems except installing subs and amp which is easy. the truck came with those crappy boss speakers but how would they all go bad at once including the tweeters in the dash?

I had installed some alpine in my Chevy forgot what models I loved the way those sounded they could get loud and not distort very clean sound will probably get those again if I end up having to get a new head unit.

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berto07T

Discussion Starter · #7 · Aug 1, 2016

The subs are on their own amp and work fine. The door speakers are powered from the head unit(so I think I haven't found any other amp besides mine for my subs)

Edit***they started working again today w**?

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berto07T

Discussion Starter · #9 · Aug 1, 2016

Where should I start checking? I don't think it can be a connection to one of the speakers or else only that one single speaker would no sound correct? but they all cut out till today. I popped of the dash and took the stereo out and made sure everything was snug but there's dozens and dozens of wires back there lol but only on larger pigtail that goes from the radio to the trucks harness I guess.

The stereo shop guy had said that since its older it could've over heated and caused the built in amp to go into protective mode cause there's no flowing air back there just the heat from the motor that makes it through the firewall. He said some people even install small computer fans back there blowing towards the stereo.

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berto07T

Discussion Starter · #11 · Aug 1, 2016

So the overheating thing is crazy? Or is it possible. I guess I'll tackle sometime this week. Checking the wires. Or is there an easier way to check if one of the speakers is shorting out ?

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berto07T

Discussion Starter · #13 · Aug 2, 2016

No but how could you tell when 90% of the head unit is in the dash. The stereo guy told me that it probably over heated and either went to protective mode or fried something and to give it some time and if it did just go into protective mode it'll come back which it did. I drive my truck for work every day for at least 7-8 hrs constant so the engine bay and the firewall behind it can get pretty hot if guess. Cause today everything was working fine and after shutting it off the back on it stopped working again, got to my next destination turned it off did my thing got back in and I have audio again

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berto07T

Discussion Starter · #16 · Aug 3, 2016

So update I took it to a different shop I've been to where they do real good work and he said its also the head unit. He looked it over for like an hr all the speakers, wires, and head unit said no clipping or weird sound from door speakers no short from them he said since the indash is a cheap knock off That the previous owner installed most of them put out low power and the door speakers are 6x9's so since I play music pretty loud through out the day the head unit can no longer keep up feeding the sufficient wattage the speakers are pulling and it's going into protection mode. Which he was surprised cause it's cheap he said lol so he said to keep the volumes down till I can get a replacement head unit and I should be good to go just plug and play unless since it was a cheap knock off they used European harness? I think that's what I heard.. Anyways so I guess time to shop for a different head unit. I kind of want to swap out the door speakers too I'm pretty sure they're a cheap brand too. Any good suggestions on a head unit that has high resolution and the usual goodies that isn't 500$+ he had a le wood one for I think 300$ looked nice but never had kenwood only oem, pioneer and alpine. I've had really good experience with alpine but they were just regular single din stereos. Im probably going to do alpine 6x9's so something that can handle that not sure if I want to deal wit wiring up another amp

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berto07T

Discussion Starter · #18 · Aug 4, 2016

Haha very true. So with 6x9's how much wattage should my head unit push to make them sound good? Trying to decide if keep the speakers now till they crap out since they're cheap brand or swap out for alpine to match the subs or jbl.

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berto07T

Discussion Starter · #20 · Aug 9, 2016

So update I installed a new pioneer head unit with new pioneer speakers to match and haven't had problems since! And man what a difference in sound and sound quality! I picked up the avh-x2800bs it's a pretty nice looking head unit with a decent amount of features and a ton of settings wow it gets overwhelming lol I was use to the single din setups. I keep reading that you can add your own picture to the background too Ima have to try and figure that out that's pretty cool.

Also is there a way to wire the rear view camera to come on automatically when I switch to reverse but also be able to turn it on manually from the head unit with out being in reverse? The harness has a reverse signal wire that i guess you tap into the taillight wire ? But which wire?

But then where do I tap in the power wire for the camera? Thanks guys I'll post up pics tomorrow

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berto07T

Discussion Starter · #22 · Aug 11, 2016

I think I understood you pretty well but the camera I ordered seems like it came with more power wires ?? The one on the right I know powers the camera so I tapped that red to the reverse light and ground it back there too? What color wire is the reverse signal for the light? And I know the yellow rca goes to the the back of the head unit,but both ends of the rca's connectors have red power wires sticking out of them? That's where I'm having a brain fart I know it has to be simple but this is the first time I ever wire up and rev camera and the instructions are pointless.

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berto07T

Discussion Starter · #23 · Aug 11, 2016

Here's a picture of my head unit

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berto07T

Discussion Starter · #25 · Aug 12, 2016

Yeah dude if you can instruct me on how to do it like that, I would like to have the option of it coming on automatically when I go in reverse and turn it on when i please too.

So the black ground I ground out at the back bumper, the red wire I tap into the reverse light? Then the yellow rca to my HU? And the red wire sticking out of the same wire sheath I tap into my power wire for my HU? Does that sound correct? But what about the other wire on the other end of the rca closest to the camera? Tap that together with the reverse? (my voltmeter actually stopped working awhile back is there a wire diagram I can go by or someone know which wire is what? Sorry if I sound like a noob but I've never done a back up camera l, so Thanks for the help reeakes! Appreciate it!

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berto07T

Discussion Starter · #27 · Aug 13, 2016

Thanks reeakes seems pretty straight foward. Yeah I had ordered one already I was just going to wait to install it when I did the camera. my only dilema is I don't have a volt meter. I keep reading about a green/white wire that's the reverse wire inside the cab by the drivers feet. Does this apply to all years ? I have an 07 that way I don't have to route a cable all the way to the tail light. But if I have to, the green/white cable I should find in the tail light right?

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berto07T

Discussion Starter · #29 · Aug 16, 2016

Thanks for all the help reeakes. I got it done. On my 07 it's the red and blue wire for the reverse signal. I flushed mounted the camera by the tailgate handle to make it look as oem as possible. Broke the bottoms clips of the large plastic piece dammit. Not that noticeable but doesn't sit as close as it did. I also had to get a new dash kit but the color doesn't really match doesn't look to bad I guess, he showed me and all the kits are that color. And the dash piece it's doesn't sit as flush on the right side anybody encounter this problem and found a way to make it sit flush ? Its a metra dash kit.

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berto07T

Discussion Starter · #31 · Aug 17, 2016

reeakes said:
The reason the dash bezel doesn't fit flush is that the rear of the HU is up against the metal bar running across the dash behind the HU. (It could be some of the cables in the way also). Try positioning the HU more forward into the bezel opening. From the picture the HU has about 1/4 inch that it could come forward thru the opening.

Glad you got everything functioning.

Think so? I think the "filler" bracket part of the kit that goes infront to fill the gap won't fit if pull foward more I think. Guess I'll try it that may be it though didn't think of that.

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berto07T

Discussion Starter · #34 · Aug 17, 2016 (Edited)

mbquart1 said:
Use the factory bezel and bracket..it will match then and fit properly. I only had to use a kit on one that had an OEM non 6disc

Actually even the factory bezel bulges and doesn't sit flush too. I think reeakes might be right and I might have to pull it foward more a little. Cause the it would've been a waste buying the whole dash kit and not just the mounting brackets :ftard:

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