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Discussion Starter #62
Hey looking for some help. I took the better part of the day taking the radiator out (got stuck removing fan).

I have it in and will connect hoses tomorrow.

Here’s my question: the radiator is bolted in sans the fan shroud. It has some play in it. Is this normal? Not a lot but I can rock in 1/2” and the bolts directly on the top seem to allow the movement.

Normal?
 

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That sure doesn’t sound right. Maybe some washers up top I sure wouldn’t want it rattling


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #64
it’s strange because the thick bolts on top that go through the rubber grommets should be tight. I’ll take a look now. Maybe just stick a price of hose in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Well I ended up jamming a piece of hose in the top passenger side as well as bottom and that seemed to do the trick. Movement was down to about 1/32" so seemed good.

I ended up finishing up today and it seems to be doing ok.

When I get time I'll post back part numbers as well as some observations that might be helpful to others.

Thanks again everyone for your assistance!!!
 

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Good deal.... it should have a little bit of play but that seems like quite a bit... My reasoning would be it has to flex a little bit with the chassis but that could just be me. And yes I know it isn't bolted directly to the chassis but it is bolted to a crossmember across the front of the truck.... looks like you solved the issue with the hose piece... Would washers work? Or would that take too many to do... Only the one side? Might have to do up some pics or something ... :) glad you got it in and it's running ...
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Thanks! Washers might fall out but I suppose they could work too. The radiator sits in rubber bushings so I think it is meant to have a bit of flex but when I first posted it seemed like too much. Now it seems normal but not like an immovable boulder or something lol.

I’ll see if I can take a vid and post it to show what I mean.

Yesterday I ran it with the radiator cap off to get bubbles out and didn’t get that many. I took it for a longer test drive and the heat is working well but I’ll check fluid levels again for the next few days.

Once I realized I didn’t have to take out the trans cooler and figured out how to unbolt the fan clutch it went much faster. Those two held me up a lot.

Unfortunately I didn’t get to replace the transmission lines but they all seemed in good shape. That will be a project for another day. Oh also my thermostat delivery was delayed so I didn’t change that but the original seems to work fine. Again, another day....
 

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Nice... It always seems when I try to run it without the cap I get several burps that toss fluid everywhere... even with about 5 rags around that neck... LOL....

Thought you had to pull that trans cooler because it's attached to the OEM radiator... or am i totally off base on that? Because you got the CSF with the trans cooler right?

Fan clutch is where you need a decent sized screwdriver to jam up against somewhere so it doesn't move right? Only the 4 bolts, if I remember correctly.... but can be a serious PITA ... I know if I take that apart, all new stuff is going in... Heh...

Yup.. will redo all transmission lines with new hose and with worm drive style clamps.... even though I have those 'special clamp' pliers... hell to the NO sometimes ... ugh...

Soooo.. heat is cranking then??? or is it simply warmer? After running the Titan the other day.. once we ran about 20 mins it seemed to get warmer, then put it into the cabin recirculation mode and it did seem even warmer but nothing like it used to be... it used to roast me out to where I had to run it about 3/4 heat on the knob.. if that makes sense... Now it's all the way up and it's tolerable...

Keep me updated buddy!
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Nice... It always seems when I try to run it without the cap I get several burps that toss fluid everywhere... even with about 5 rags around that neck... LOL....
Thought you had to pull that trans cooler because it's attached to the OEM radiator... or am i totally off base on that? Because you got the CSF with the trans cooler right?

Fan clutch is where you need a decent sized screwdriver to jam up against somewhere so it doesn't move right? Only the 4 bolts, if I remember correctly.... but can be a serious PITA ... I know if I take that apart, all new stuff is going in... Heh...

Yup.. will redo all transmission lines with new hose and with worm drive style clamps.... even though I have those 'special clamp' pliers... hell to the NO sometimes ... ugh...

Soooo.. heat is cranking then??? or is it simply warmer? After running the Titan the other day.. once we ran about 20 mins it seemed to get warmer, then put it into the cabin recirculation mode and it did seem even warmer but nothing like it used to be... it used to roast me out to where I had to run it about 3/4 heat on the knob.. if that makes sense... Now it's all the way up and it's tolerable...

Keep me updated buddy!

I had the funnel with a rag stuffed in it on the radiator. I got some spillage but not that much. Maybe there wasn’t a lot of air? I also filled the overflow to the Max line but kept that closed.

The main how to thread shows disconnecting the transmission cooler (I think it’s the trans cooler - the one in front of the radiator) mounted to the front of the radiator. However, this requires disconnecting two hard to get hoses on the passenger side front (one of which is connected to the line that goes into the radiator). You lean it forward it’s held on by two bolts and it is free from the radiator (sans the two feet that sit in the slots at the bottom) but should support it with a bungee cord so it doesn’t fall. I link to the YouTube vid I got that idea from.

I didn’t realize about the screwdriver trick until more searching. I had replaced the fan clutch years ago and put blue loctite on the bolts. Once I put the screw driver in it wasn’t hard to get them off. Getting them back on is another story because you need fingers 10” long lol. I had better luck doing two from the bottom but it went on ok. A gear wrench speeds it up but you can get them spun on mostly by hand. Don’t cross thread!

I noticed that some of my worm clams loosened over the years. I kept the spring clamps on with a worm behind it. If I redo the tranny lines I think I’ll do the same with new OEM clamps or min do two screw clams and check them periodically.

It was about 50 degrees out yesterday by me. Once the truck came up to temp, I was met with a blast of uncomfortably hot air when opening the door. I had to keep the windows down on the test drive despite the rain or I would have passed out lol. Once I get it filled for good I’ll do a test with a thermometer. I think it is supposed to be 140.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Last night I decided to top off the antifreeze late at night while I was on the phone. I got some air when I removed the radiator cap (it had cooled down) and I proceeded to fill not realizing it was flowing into the overflow tank...duh.

I ended up putting in prob 1/2 a gallon too much before I realized so I got a turkey baster and sucked out until it was at the max line. I'll drive a few more days to see if the level is too high or low but there did not appear to be much air in the system.

Lesson: Don't multitask when working on truck :)
 

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I noticed that some of my worm clams loosened over the years. I kept the spring clamps on with a worm behind it. If I redo the tranny lines I think I’ll do the same with new OEM clamps or min do two screw clams and check them periodically.
Repeated thermal cycles are known to loosen hose clamps. I'm currently trying these:


"Cochlear Design Ensures Continuous Clamping During Temperature Changes Or Machine Vibrations" --- I really hope so.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Repeated thermal cycles are known to loosen hose clamps. I'm currently trying these:


"Cochlear Design Ensures Continuous Clamping During Temperature Changes Or Machine Vibrations" --- I really hope so.
Those are the types I’ve used on PEX lines and my sprinkler system (before I discovered worm clamps for the sprinklers).

I would be curious to know how they work on the truck - please post back impressions.

I read the reviews and learned that they can be released by prying up on the tab - I didn’t know this and would use a cutoff wheel on a dremel when I had to remove them.

Most of my spring clamps were ok, but some had some seapage. I’ll make sure to tighten the worm clamps periodically.
 

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Those are the types I’ve used on PEX lines and my sprinkler system (before I discovered worm clamps for the sprinklers).

I would be curious to know how they work on the truck - please post back impressions.

I read the reviews and learned that they can be released by prying up on the tab - I didn’t know this and would use a cutoff wheel on a dremel when I had to remove them.
These are what VW uses all over the place. I've just been putting worm drive hose clamps back wherever I pulled those off. I have had no issues. There was one place that I was a little worried about vibration...so I added some loc-tite to the worm drive. If excess heat isnt an issue, you could also use nail polish or crazy glue.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
These are what VW uses all over the place. I've just been putting worm drive hose clamps back wherever I pulled those off. I have had no issues. There was one place that I was a little worried about vibration...so I added some loc-tite to the worm drive. If excess heat isnt an issue, you could also use nail polish or crazy glue.
That’s interesting info thanks. And it seems to make a lot more sense for durability- assuming they don’t fail?
 

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That’s interesting info thanks. And it seems to make a lot more sense for durability- assuming they don’t fail?
the VW is from 2002. I adopted it this February. In 17 years I don't think much was done in terms of maintenance, etc with it. Every one I have pulled off was there and tight (there were no locations that should have had one and didn't).
14 years in AZ, 3 in VT. (again I adopted it this year)
the '05 CC Titan? in VT since birth (late '04)
if it didn't require me buying another tool, I would have gone and put the same ones back. but money is/was an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
the VW is from 2002. I adopted it this February. In 17 years I don't think much was done in terms of maintenance, etc with it. Every one I have pulled off was there and tight (there were no locations that should have had one and didn't).
14 years in AZ, 3 in VT. (again I adopted it this year)
the '05 CC Titan? in VT since birth (late '04)
if it didn't require me buying another tool, I would have gone and put the same ones back. but money is/was an issue.
Those clips look like a good solution. I have the PEX tool for crimping ($$$ but cheaper than a plumber!) as well as the sprinkler tool (that one is just a pair of pliers with a crumpet on the end). I will look into the appropriate tool for the job as this sounds like a permanent solution.

Thanks again for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
So, still holding up? And hot? Maybe I'll order the radiator as a X-mas present for the T.... LOL...
Working great so far!

It took a few days to get the fluid levels right but no adverse impact. Except when I sucked out the extra in the overflow only to find the next day it was low - duh.

I then topped it off to just below max and it was fine. I’ll check again this weekend. No leaks, but I suspect air was working it’s way out.

If I did it again I would fill the rad and leave it alone then just top off the overflow tank. When you pour too much I. The radiator it just flows into the overflow.
 
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