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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Searched and couldn't find anything related.
Currently in the middle of a OBX LT (from what ive read obx is totaly copyed from the DT LT's) and the passanger side header when trying to install is hitting the rear upper control arm bracket on the frame and the manafold studs before it is able to slid on to the studs. We have the motor lifted up with motor mount bolts loose. Any one run in to this with DT LT's or can think of what im doing wrong. This is on a 2005 4X4
 

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Yikes, thats not good news. There's a few of us planning this install in a couple weeks. Take pics of your OBX install! Let us know how it goes and if you fixed your problem. Good luck!
 

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No problem on my 2004 4x4 with DTs, although clearances are tight.

I think there are variances between headers, cuz some people had some problems with clearance between some of the tubes and the studs.

Some people also had some problems with the holes matching up with the studs on the JBA short tubes and had to enlarge the holes.

My thoughts:

1. comparing the oem manifold flange with the header flange and with the gaskets - are they the same size? (the OBX flanges are not oversized?) holes same size and in the same places?

2. would a change in the engine jacking height help, either up or down a bit?

3. are the studs screwed into the block all the way - or maybe they backed out a little before the nuts broke loose?

4. the Chinese copied an ill-fitting specimen of the DT headers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
We've moved the motor all around even total taken the motor mount bolts out so we could get more movement and just can't make the space up it hits on the rear upper control arm bracket off the frame. I think the only option we have at this point is to remove the studs from the head, install header than reinstall studs and nuts. Note the drivers side header slipped rite on with no problem and bolted up the factory b pipe just fine and the provided gasket and header flange was perfect. Also all of this is being done on a 2005 titan with 200,000 miles so rust is not our friend at this point. Would you guys reccomend a high temp tread locker on reinstallation in the studs to the head?
Thanks for the help guys ive been on the fourm sence 2005 just reading and searching and finaly have joined.
 

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I think you need to carefully consider whether there will be sufficient clearance to reinstall the studs with the exhaust manifold in position. Maybe only certain studs need to be removed and there will be sufficient clearance to permit reinstall, I dunno.

This photo may not apply to your exact situation on the passenger side, but illustrates the potential clearance issue.

 

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Go to the autoparts and get the socket to take the studs off. I did that when installing some headers for a member here. That should fix the problem.
 

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I think the studs are M10. I actually bought a metric stud removal set made by AST before I installed, but did not have to take any studs out.

Von, did you take out all the studs or just certain studs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Well there installed and there is definatnly a fit issue on the passanger side header on the second tube back from the front. installed with the motor mounts bolted back together it is setting on the rear upper control arm bracket and when running you can feel the engine vibration in the frame sence its directly setting on the header to frame. Im going to try and call OBX tomorrow and let them know the titan header jig is off and see what they say about it. So I don't know if we just got a bad batch or if all of them have had this issue. But I would strongly caution everyone from buying OBX rite now untill we have a confermation that the jig/fit issue is resolved. It took us removing all the studs but the front two to install the pass header. But both header to head flanges lined up just fine and both b pipe flanges were just fine also. So were going just drive the truck and watch it to see if it will make a gap by itself either by it denting itself or bending itself. So im going to take it on a drive from Wichita to kansas city Tuesday and will check the gap and see if we set any codes as we are running to spark plug defoulers on the downstream o2 sensors.
 

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Any pictures of your fitment issues? Post up your findings from OBX when you get a hold of them.
 

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Bestatchess: I took off the back 4. It slid in just fine after that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Only pic I have rite now but fit issue is rite behind the rear upper control arm mount right behind that control arm bolt the pipe is very much touching
Mods. any way to change the title of this post to add OBX in it so more people may click it maybe before ordering?
 

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I was gonna tell ya to pulle the rear studs too, but looks like you done it already... The install of my JBA shorty headers were tricky too and I had to pull the rear two studs, put the top one back in and used a bolt in place of the lower rear stud. As for side clearance I had no issues since mine are short tubes snd the pipes were merged fairly close together, but looking at your picture they do look quite far apart from each other... Wonder if the forward pipe is bent too far out and at a wider angle, which is causing the close contact???
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got about 50miles on it now still hasn't made any clearance yet and is still rubbing. Im assuming we will eventually rub a hole in the tube and will have to remove and slightly grind the control arm bracket and have a buddy that works with metal heat, dent and than weld the hole closed to make up our clearance. I can only see that as our option now. But untill the hole develops I think we are just going drive it and see what happens. Tomorrow its driving to kansas city so it will get a good long heat cycle.
Tried to call OBX today with no answer just a ringing phone with no voicemail.
Also check engine light came on already need to get it to the buddy that works at Nissan to scan it and let me know what codes, had ran by autozone and there scanner said I had a downstream O2 heater circuit codes so we will see if that is even close to what nissans scanner says.
 
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Got about 50miles on it now still hasn't made any clearance yet and is still rubbing. Im assuming we will eventually rub a hole in the tube and will have to remove and slightly grind the control arm bracket and have a buddy that works with metal heat, dent and than weld the hole closed to make up our clearance. I can only see that as our option now. But untill the hole develops I think we are just going drive it and see what happens. Tomorrow its driving to kansas city so it will get a good long heat cycle.
Tried to call OBX today with no answer just a ringing phone with no voicemail.
Also check engine light came on already need to get it to the buddy that works at Nissan to scan it and let me know what codes, had ran by autozone and there scanner said I had a downstream O2 heater circuit codes so we will see if that is even close to what nissans scanner says.
I noticed that a couple spots along my JBA's had been "pre-dented" to allow a bit more room or the studs... I wonder if you can also strategically put a dent in the section of pipe that is making contact???
 

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I know nothing about the mounts so please no one laugh but what if you made/put a small spacer on the motor mount.
 

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In all fairness, you could google any company like that and get the same results. :p Still, pretty lame. I'm thinking the strategically placed dent will be the answer if no one gets an answer out of obx. I'll attempt the install still when I get time. "idhitit2: <- as many times as necessary to get it right. lol.
 

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Yes, in all fairness, one guy did like his OBX bolt on headers: "Had no problems with the OBX headers, yeah had to do some custom welding, but they look and perform nicely."
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I know nothing about the mounts so please no one laugh but what if you made/put a small spacer on the motor mount.
Truly thought about this but couldnt fab something up quick enough at the time but it looks like you could just lift the pass side mount and clear ok
 

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I imagine, if you use a small round punch, or something similar to start wedging in between the pipe and frame and tap it down with a ball peen hammer, then increase the diameter with a larger punch as you get the header pipe to dent in without compromising the structural integrity, repeat until you can get about 1/4" of clearance... I have no mechanical or engineering background whatsoever, so in theory it sounds good, and do this at your own risk... I just like to bang on my own chit in the garage to make things fit... :rofl:
 
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