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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My OEM battery cable ends seem to give less contact w/ battery terminals than I would like. They also have gaps that encourage corrosion to develop. Anyone with a good fix or opinion?
 

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Don't fix what isn't broken. Keep them clean, coat with a battery protectant if you must.

The mechanical design of battery clamps is changing from Lead, which is a toxic, and breaks easily, to a strip of coated steel. It has that slit to allow better conformity to the wedge shape of the standard battery terminal. It should prove to be a much more durable design. I wouldn't re-engineer it.

That's my opinion. :)
 

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Those cable connectors are insane! With the nasty, leaky Nissan batteries the first time I went to wiggle the caked up SOB at 1:00am in downtown Dallas..SNAP! 500.00 of motels, tools and taxis and a day later I had it fixed :crying: Get that cheesy crap off of there ASAP. I prefer the Brass, Marine type connectors as they resist corrosion well.

NO WAY in hell those thin strips make a better connection.
 

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Lloyd Swartz said:
...With the nasty, leaky Nissan batteries the first time I went to wiggle the caked up....
I'd blame the battery or the lack of maintenance. not the clamp. It was just doing its job, but nobody cared. That's just my opinion. :rolleyes:

UPDATE: The amount of contact area for the flow of current, weather steel clamp or lead or brass, is about the same.
 

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I would somewhat agree with the upgrade philosiphy. A lot of people who have done after market stereo upgrades(or other electronics for that matter) have upgraded "the big three". This term refers to the leads of the battery(pos and neg) and between the alternator and the battery. A lot of them have also bought the "grounding kit" to stabilize the system further. These simple(and relatively cheap) upgrades have greatly improved the charging stability of our systems over the stock's lacking(IMO).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
TitanBlue said:
Don't fix what isn't broken. Keep them clean, coat with a battery protectant if you must.

The mechanical design of battery clamps is changing from Lead, which is a toxic, and breaks easily, to a strip of coated steel. It has that slit to allow better conformity to the wedge shape of the standard battery terminal. It should prove to be a much more durable design. I wouldn't re-engineer it.

That's my opinion. :)
Good info- thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Titan4mde said:
I would somewhat agree with the upgrade philosiphy. A lot of people who have done after market stereo upgrades(or other electronics for that matter) have upgraded "the big three". This term refers to the leads of the battery(pos and neg) and between the alternator and the battery. A lot of them have also bought the "grounding kit" to stabilize the system further. These simple(and relatively cheap) upgrades have greatly improved the charging stability of our systems over the stock's lacking(IMO).
The big 3 upgrade: Is it just a change in the terminal ends of the + and - cables, or the entire cable? What brands seem best? Pics?

The Batt-alt cable upgrade- what brands? Pics?

Thanks - if it passes the "audio guys" approval, it should be great for me.
 

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Machado7 said:
The big 3 upgrade: Is it just a change in the terminal ends of the + and - cables, or the entire cable? What brands seem best? Pics?

The Batt-alt cable upgrade- what brands? Pics?

Thanks - if it passes the "audio guys" approval, it should be great for me.
Not sure of brands, haven't done this myself yet(but it's on my list as I have upgraded audio). Sorry I couldn't be specific. There are several different connectors available out there, just stop by a stereo shop(not Best Buy or the like, but a real audio shop) for advice, but don't pay an arm and a leg for these!! The same stereo shops should have good oxygen free insulated copper in the size you need to run new leads. You may be able to find this in the search function trying different word combos. I'll try to find something to link.
 

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Titan4mde said:
I would somewhat agree with the upgrade philosiphy. A lot of people who have done after market stereo upgrades(or other electronics for that matter) have upgraded "the big three". This term refers to the leads of the battery(pos and neg) and between the alternator and the battery. A lot of them have also bought the "grounding kit" to stabilize the system further. These simple(and relatively cheap) upgrades have greatly improved the charging stability of our systems over the stock's lacking(IMO).
To squeeze everything out of the system, that makes sense. Larger conductors would lower the systems resistance, and in a maxed out system, increase performance.

That is why my ground kit was made of 2/0 or 00 cable, instead of #4 like the aftermarket sells. Bought everything at a local store called Battery Warehouse.

Most users don't benefit from this fancy stuff, just need to pay attention to normal maintenance; i.e., fill the battery, and clean the terminals thoroughly. I wash my battery 2 or 3 times a year, and wipe it off often. Excellent thread here...
 
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