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Any of you guys using an oil catch can? I've been researching them to figure out if our engines would benefit from one. Seems these things are especially necessary for DIG, turbo, or supercharged engines. The fumes from the crankcase that are rerouted back to the air intake contain more gunk when there's thinner oil used, like our manufacturer's suggested 0W-20 synthetic oil. The gunk vapors coat the intake manifolds and coat the intake valves in carbon buildup. On DIG engines, there's no fuel sprayed on the intake valves that'll dissolve the carbon buildup, which degrades the engine's performance faster.

Some of the videos stated that modern DIG engines have learned from the mistakes of early generation DIG designs and placed another fuel injector inside the port to periodically inject fuel on the intake port to clean the valves, but I doubt our engines have this feature. Videos also stated that latest designs may already feature a type of oil catch can, but, again, I don't think our engines have this.

Any of you guys know anything about this or is it just another snake oil product?
 

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Ford added dual fuel injection systems to deal with this issue.
From my research, catch cans are snake oil.
The best prevention is keeping up with regular maintenance and a little spirited driving from time to time (full throttle applications on on-ramps for example).
Older oil breaks down and create more particulates which stick to valves.
Cleaning valves (if it gets to that point) is still much cheaper than repairing a secondary injection system.
I have also read that these cans will void warranty.
Save yourself $300.


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Ford added dual fuel injection systems to deal with this issue.
From my research, catch cans are snake oil.
The best prevention is keeping up with regular maintenance and a little spirited driving from time to time (full throttle applications on on-ramps for example).
Older oil breaks down and create more particulates which stick to valves.
Cleaning valves (if it gets to that point) is still much cheaper than repairing a secondary injection system.
I have also read that these cans will void warranty.
Save yourself $300.


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I never gave one thought for my trucks but do have one in my Challenger, it collects about 3/4-1 inch of oil in the cup every 1000 miles. If you’ve ever seen an engine tear down comparison of a can vs a non can, you’d be amazed at how much cleaner the entire valvetrain and intake is. No, they do not void a warranty as they don’t alter anything and if you had to take the truck in for repair you’d simply remove it for that period of time and they’d never have a clue it was ever there. I had one on each bank of my Mustang Coyote engine and you know who placed them there? They were put there by Rousch Racing when I trailered the car there to have the engine done, Nissan techs will never know a fraction what that shop knows. What a great experience it was going there.

Clint
 

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On a boosted engine they make sense as there is a lot of blow by.
I’ve seen videos where guys pull what looks like 1/2 a cup of liquid but this is usually just water as there is significantly more moisture in the incoming air than oil particulates.

I don’t know about the teardown comparisons though but I would be skeptical unless I was sure the person doing the comparison was not motivated to sell these cans.

What Kenedy posted could be just as good as having port injection.

I’m not saying the cans won’t make a difference, I just don’t think they’re required.


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I had a catch can on my '12 F150 with 5 liter V8 and was always amazed/concerned on how much oil it collected every 1000 miles.
 

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When I was looking at trucks the F150 was high on my list and I found many videos/comments/reviews on how those engines really needed them because of the buildup on the valves. Seems like it was always the just the valves right next to where it was being routed back in and it did take quite a few miles for it to happen.

Whether the 5.6 needs one would (I'm guessing) probably depend on where it's being routed back in. I plan on having mine around for a long while so it seems like a smart move, but $300 seems a little pricey for such a simple product. I guess these are universal fit?
 

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I had a catch can on my '12 F150 with 5 liter V8 and was always amazed/concerned on how much oil it collected every 1000 miles.
I had the intake off my 14 not long ago and was disgusted as to how much gunk had built up. I do regular maintenance at more frequent than recommended intervals and drive with a spirited heavy foot. I can't talk for the direct injection aspect, but imagine a catch can couldn't hurt. I plan to install one on mone soon
 

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Just read this in an article about the 3.5 eco boost motor (this year range pre dates the port injection update they added in 2017).

Induction Cleaning Mistakes
The 3.5L has not had many issues with carbon build-up on the intake valves. But some DIY owners will use induction cleaners that are injected into the intake. These types of cleaners can damage the turbochargers’ bearings, seals and turbines. The best advice is to use high-quality fuel. Also, Ford has released new PCV parts and PCM calibrations to reduce the amount crankcase vapor ingested into the intake. See TSB 15-0003 for more information.

Source
https://www.underhoodservice.com/ford-3-5l-ecoboost-common-problems/

If this boosted engine doesn’t need a can, I imagine our engines are fine. Good fuel appears to help.

Does anyone have a scope they would be willing to shove into the intake of their engine?




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Just read this in an article about the 3.5 eco boost motor (this year range pre dates the port injection update they added in 2017).

Induction Cleaning Mistakes
The 3.5L has not had many issues with carbon build-up on the intake valves. But some DIY owners will use induction cleaners that are injected into the intake. These types of cleaners can damage the turbochargers’ bearings, seals and turbines. The best advice is to use high-quality fuel. Also, Ford has released new PCV parts and PCM calibrations to reduce the amount crankcase vapor ingested into the intake. See TSB 15-0003 for more information.

Source
https://www.underhoodservice.com/ford-3-5l-ecoboost-common-problems/

If this boosted engine doesn’t need a can, I imagine our engines are fine. Good fuel appears to help.

Does anyone have a scope they would be willing to shove into the intake of their engine?


I do and plan on looking once I find a way to route
 

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Safest routing would be to pull the throttle body and go in that way. Or, if your camera is small enough to get in through one of the vacuum ports without breaking the port (or the camera), that's an option.
 

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I think it's a great idea in race cars, forced induction and high performance cars that see a lot of time at 100% WOT and high rpm's more that 50% of their time.

I think of it this way, with our Titans. If you don't have to add oil between oil changes and the oil level on the dipstick is always on the full line. You aren't getting blow by so no catch can required. If you're driving your vehicle hard enough that you are using oil and it doesn't appear to be exiting through the exhaust or dripping from a leaky oil pan ;) a catch can seems like a item you should put more thought into.
 
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In my experience catch cans are a good thing to have. On my mustang I saw how much oil was getting into the intake. And after installing one there was zero.
 

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I do and plan on looking once I find a way to route

I’m looking forward to this!!


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Give me a few days. I will attempt to look at the valves on my wifes 18 Armada with 14k.

The Armada is mostly city miles and one round trip to LA and back...If there is going to be buildup on the valves this baby should have some...
 

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Ok I tried.... Could not get the camera head to slip down any of the intake runners.

Need a slimmer extension with smaller camera head. The camera head would get ****ed when I tried to push down a runner..

Good news is the interior of the intake seems really clean with no sludge or deposits. I checked my 17 Titan with 26k
 

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^^ Yikes, I'm thinking I would have removed the TB. I'm not sure if the procedure on the 2nd gens is the same as the first, but I'd try the pedal reset procedure for the ECU and the throttle position relearn after moving the throttle plate.
 
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