Nissan Titan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,088 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Has anybody bought an oil filter for their Titan yet? I emailed Fram and their reply was that they don't make one yet and can't recommend one that they already have. It seems like Fram would have a filter on the shelf before any Titans hit the streets. Does anybody know what the dealer charges for an oil filter. I like to change my filter and oil very frequently on new vechiles that I own until they get a few thosand miles on them.

Also does anyone have a recommendation on what brand of oil to use. I know that Valvoline and Castrol are good. I'm not sure if I want to use synthetics because I can afford to change twice as often if I use conventional oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
I got an email from K&N that they have an oil filter for the 5.6. No air filter yet..

Thank you for your interest in K&N products. You have registered to receive notification about products for your vehicle. This email was sent automatically to inform you of available products that fit this application. Listed below are the current K&N products for a 2004 NISSAN TITAN 5.6L. We believe this is equivalent to your request for a 2004 NISSAN TITAN 5.6.

Year Engine Product Type Part Number Description Comment
2004 5.6L V8 F/I Oil Filter HP-1010 Oil Filter All

More information about our complete line of products is available at www.knfilters.com.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Considering that engine lube on the research level is my job, I would suggest looking for the correct filter for your rig. K&N oil filters are just like their air filters, they don't filter as good as they should but they flow lots of air/oil. If you want to see your Si (dirt)levels go up in your oil analysis, use a K&N air filter. Oil filters are rated by their Beta Ratio. K&N does 80%- 20 micron at multi-pass whereas a filter like Purolator will be at 95%- 10 micron at single pass. The K&N will flow more oil but the possiblility of 40 micron damage is there. We have also detected voids in the air fliters approaching 120 microns. Might as well not have one. It's your investment, I would suggest using factory filters until the aftermarket quality filters are available. Try Purolator, Wix, NAPA, Supertech (Walmart-hard to believe, I know, but they are made by Champion and better than most), or Baldwin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
823 Posts
Robert, I bought 2 of them yesterday from my local dealer. They were only $5 a piece, very reasonable I think. I drained the factory fill oil yesterday at 1057 miles and put Mobil 1 10W-30 in it. I also sent an oil sample of the factory fill oil to Blackstone Labs. I should be hearing back from them in about a week on the results. I'll post them here on this forum if your interested.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
I would certainly like to see your analysis. You might also want to consider for your next oil change using the Mobil One 0w-30. It has more moly, boron, higher SUS at temp, and a higher flashpoint than the 10w-30. If you have any cold startups it will also get to the internals quicker.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
823 Posts
It usually takes a week to get back my results, I'll post them here when I get them. You sound like an oil addict like myself, I used the 10W-30 more for it shear stableness than anything. All of the oil sample reports I've seen usually favor the 10W-30 over the 0W-30 Mobil 1 for lower FE and Lead ppm. We'll see later on because I'm going to do another sample on the 10W-30 that's in it at the 3k mile mark. If I see unfavorable results my next choice was going to be the Delvac 1 5W-40. That oil typically returns excellent samples as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Jet, I hope the dealer nearest me..15 miles will sell me a filter for $ 5 even though I bought my Titan 95 miles away.

Was the filter easy to get to?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
823 Posts
If you have the tow package there is a small skid plate to remove, 4 bolts and real easy. The filter is on the front bottom of the engine, easy to get at but damn was that thing on there, I wasn't sure I was going to get it off. Nissan put a little drain pan under the filter so it keeps everything nice and clean, no mess. What a TINY filter, kind of surprised me when I bought it. I asked the guy behind the counter to double check it and it was the right one. I put in 6.5 quarts and it's still showing a bit low on the dipstick. The manual says 6.5 but I think it might be a little more like 7. I'm going to wait a few days and keep checking it before I add anymore just to make sure it's low. It's showing about mid-way on the dipstick which is really an ok level.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
823 Posts
tbeecher said:
Aw crap! Another belief has been shattered.. I always believed in K&N...
There are pros and cons to the K&N's and mixed results with oil samples and silicon (dirt) levels. I've always used them, in fact the last oil sample I had done about 2 months ago on my wifes (now gone) Mercedes C230, the silicon level was only 3ppm!! That's a better (lower) number than what I had seen in the past using paper filters. I do not live in a dusty area though and would NOT recommend them in these conditions. So I've had good luck with them in the past and have the oil samples to back up my thoughts on them, but to each his own. If you want to run a K&N do an oil sample to make sure it's doing a good job filtering in your particular application.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
Trapper & Jet, I want to put Mobil 1 Synthetic in mine as well (I'm thinking 5W-30). I know the manual doesn't promote or advise against synthetic but does Mobil 1 meet the certification requirements that Nissan notes in the manual? My sales guy said they didn't recommend syn oil becuase of the moly coated pistons which makes absolutely no sense. Anyway, I don't put much stock into what he said but I do want to make sure the oil meets Nissan's requirements in case any warranty issues come up.

Great posts by the way!

Karl
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Trapper L said:
I would suggest using factory filters until the aftermarket quality filters are available. Try Purolator, Wix, NAPA, Supertech (Walmart-hard to believe, I know, but they are made by Champion and better than most), or Baldwin.

TrapperL,

Good stuff. Here I am using Fram in all my cars and now I'm not sure that I'm doing the right thing.

Hypothetical Question (for all):

Assume all of the quality oil filter manufacturers made an oil filter for the Titan (Nissan included) and they all cost the same, which would everyone use?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
thats a hard question, I usually go whith fram becouse they are cheaper and i change oil every 3K miles on the spot (sometime ahead if i have time and wont latter on). That said i have never had a problem whith frams so i dont know if i would switch...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
823 Posts
on a more general note, most manufaturers oil filters are usually pretty darn good. Motorcraft for example has very little pressure drop and has an unbeatable anti-drain back valve. I'm not overly familiar with the quality of Nissans oil filters but I suppose it's cheap insurance for now to use them.

No synthetic due to the moly coated pistons????????? That's the most rediculous thing I've ever heard. Most synthetic and non-synthetic oils have anywhere from 50 to 250 ppm of moly added to the formula. I can see that I need to do some research and get some REAL answers from Nissan concerning this sythetic issue.

Keep in mind that ALL manufacturers want to keep the cost of ownership as low as possible. If you required synthetic oil it would make the cost of ownership jump considerably not to mention different oil change intervals, etc. etc. Nissan's recommendation of regular oil sounds like a "safe" road to go with the least amount of cost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
In regards to filters, we have seen far too many Frams that due to assembly defects are already in the bi-pass mode new in the box. I won't say every one of them is like that but I have seen enough that I won't use one. Purolator filters the most particulates but will have the lowest oil flow. K&N will have the highest oil flow but allows unfiltered oil to go by. Everything else is in between. Don't spend big bucks on any oil filter as the high dollar ones generally don't do a better job. It's hard to go wrong using a Purolator, NAPA Gold, or Wix.

In regards to synthetic oil. We don't have the spec from Nissan yet as to the recommended oil for their engine. Stating in the owners manual that they recommend regular oil makes me think that possibly the seals they use are not compatible with the esters in the PAO basestock synthetics. PAO's will actually shrink seals, therefore the oil manufacturers put esters in it to swell the seals. Until more info is available I would think it is prudent to stay away from synthetics.

In regards to moly coated pistons. I am assuming that the type of moly used is a form of moly disulfide. This is an old standby black coating that works well in a coating application. The moly that is found in motor oil is of the moly trialkyldithocarbomate family better known as MoTDC. It is a great barrier lubricant, it is a clear liquid and it is expensive. It usually comes into play when the mixed film state starts to breakdown. I would suggest that the oil you use have moly of some content in it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Trapper L said:

In regards to synthetic oil. We don't have the spec from Nissan yet as to the recommended oil for their engine. Stating in the owners manual that they recommend regular oil makes me think that possibly the seals they use are not compatible with the esters in the PAO basestock synthetics. PAO's will actually shrink seals, therefore the oil manufacturers put esters in it to swell the seals. Until more info is available I would think it is prudent to stay away from synthetics.

Anyone know where we can get Nissan's recommended info.
for the Q45/M45/FX45 ??

The 5.6L V-8 used in the Titan/Armada/QX56 evolved from the 4.5L motor in those vehicles. I would think as long as the oil meets API requirements there wouldn't be any issues.

Heck, I know it's OK to use synthetics in the 3.0L-3.5L
VQ series V-6's engines.

Would Nissan really use different seal material
in the V-8 ??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Trapper L, You are in Texas and I see you own a Ford, Are you getting a Titan? And how are guys in South Texas gonna react?

P.S. If you haven't already.. I just got a Nissan filter what oil would you recommend?

Boy, there are some serious oil guys on this forum.. Great info!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Is that oil filter small or what? I'm gonna have to get a special filter tool for this baby. I could not get it off! Makes me think $ 20.00 for oil change is cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
durocab, considering that the boss just bought a Titan and it has a lot of the Ford freaks looking real hard, I don't expect much harassment. Truth is, most of the Ford buyers are concerned about their Triton engines lasting. While the initial engineering is good, the execution sucks. Problems like the spark plugs blowing out of the heads, bad head gaskets, bad heads, coils going bad, rear end bearings dead just after the warranty runs out. My SCrew has a noisy rear end and the dealer can't get the "check engine" light to go off. And of course, it has over 50,000 miles on it so it is my problem. That is the number one reason I'm trading into a different brand. I have had major problems with both GM and Dodge so they are not even up for consideration. That leaves Toyota and Nissan. Frankly, the Toy Tundra just seems like a warmed over Chevy. It's not pretty, under powered, and is prone to breakdowns. I'm not game for spending 30 grand on another junker so the Toy is out. That leaves Nissan. Some of our executive group drives them (Altimas) and they rave at the performance and quality. And the local dealers have done the right thing so far in taking care of any problems. All things considered, Nissan is the pick of the litter with service, product, value, and the thrill factor. So, yeah, I'm in around March if I can find the one I want. If not, I'll order it.

In regards to oil, I still don't have Nissans spec so I am going to say that generically, Chevron Supreme in 10w-30 would be my oil of choice. It employes the ISO/SYN process that gives it a minimum Gp II+ rating ( difference between GpII+ and Gp III is the viscosity index, otherwise they are the same. Gp III is considered a dino synthetic), uses moly around 250 ppms for a barrier lube, and is a heck of a deal at Walmart for around $1.19 qt. CS also turns in some of the lowest wear metals in Used Oil Analysis. It almost always beats any PAO synthetic in wear metals and holds up darn good. It will have the same composition as the Havoline so if you can't find the CS, look for Havoline. Make sure to look on the back of the bottle for the Texaco/ Chevron name as you mighht encounter some of the old Equilon made Havoline and it is trash. If you have other vehicles and are looking for a deal, try Big Lots if you have them in your area. They just purchased a LARGE amount of Havoline Synthetic that they are selling for $1.99 qt and that's the deal of the year. But I wouldn't put it in the Nissan just yet. There may be issues with the DOHC design that synthetics may not do so well. We talked about it at work today and until we get some history with this engine, I would suggest heeding Nissans recommendation of staying with dino oils.

About the deer hunting, it hasn't been winter yet. Mostly t-shirt weather so everything is GREEN. The lower country looks like it is spring already and the cattle are belly deep in grass. I've never seen it so green especially this time of year. If it stays this way, it should be a record year for the bucks come 04 winter. But for this season, you can't shoot what you can't see. It's been dismal.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top