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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I can't tolerate the scratching of my stock speakers anymore,I like it loud like a metallica concert and I just can't handle it being at low levels just to play lol,so i'm wanting to swap every single speaker out..I can't find the info on our speakers what size speakers does a 4 door 2005 titan have? I was told 6x9's but that was from a guy who doesnt own a titan..Also what is the best sounding brand to go with? Was considering Memphis..Need expert advice on this lol also what kind of amp would I need to run the highs? I have 2 10" kickers on a 700W bazooka amp..Thanks alot!
 

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Just so you know since I have done a complete audio system in my titan. You have 6x9's up front and 6.5" in the rear. Our trucks also have a large tweeter in the top dash section, however I disconnected mine due to the fact if you buy quality speakers and a 4ch amp that is also good there is no need for them. If you are a fan of loud music like I am then you will want to dynomat your doors to keep the vibration down. Good speakers all depends on how much you want to spend. I use JL audio 6x9 in the front and 6.5" in the rear would be great...match that with a good 4ch amp like a JL or kicker or even a alpine and you would be good to start with. I went more extreme as you can see in my signature
 

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I'd go with the Memphis. Those are the only speakers I will ever own. I tried the PR series, but the tweeter pod sticks out a little too far. Had to step up to the MClass but I'm glad I did. The PR's are great but these speakers are crystal clear and LOUD
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Awesome thanks alot guys I was looking at the MClass memphis speakers..think I should run an amp on them?
 

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I just did a swap and put in the CDT special from tech12volts. I got 6.d components front and 6.5 coax rears. I then picked up a sweet amp from CDT direct. I got the door adapter plates from mjmauto (or similar) off ebay. 6x9 to 6.5 front door. Tweeter plate up front and 6.5 adapter for retarded mount in rear doors. All in for $450 delivered.
 

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Awesome thanks alot guys I was looking at the MClass memphis speakers..think I should run an amp on them?
I'm running a 400w 4ch Autotek on mine and they sound beautiful. Put some power on em! It really cleans things up, especially if you like it LOUD!
 

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Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead,but I recently stumbled on a thread talking about the differences of 6x9's and 6x5's..Does anyone have an opinion on which is louder and clearer? Numerous people said that the 6.5's have the best sound. I was thinking 6x9's in the front and 6x5's in the back. I recently purchased a 600W 4way DUAL amp for super cheap and figured that would be good for my high's..what do you think?
 

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I got 6x9 2 way Infinity's in the front and the 6.5 in Infinity's in the rear with the stock system and they really sound great with minimal investment. Bought on clearance at Crutchfield.com.

Good luck

Merc
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I got 6x9 2 way Infinity's in the front and the 6.5 in Infinity's in the rear with the stock system and they really sound great with minimal investment. Bought on clearance at Crutchfield.com.

Good luck

Merc
Yeah I am thinking I may do the same thing..I bought an amp for 50 bucks to run on my door speakers,figuring they will scream. THinking Memphis for the brand.Thanks for your input
 

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Not heard the Memphis but would definitely look at BA's as well.

Great quality !

Merc
 

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Hey guys going along with this topic, did any of you have rockford speakers originally and noticed that the sub created a vibrating sound near the center console? I'm upgrading to alpines right now but i need to find out if theres a way to fix this problem because every bit of bass is making the most annoying sound.
 

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Polk, pioneer , Memphis can't go wrong with these brands I'm running Polk in doors and pioneer sub under back seat it makes a great combo
 

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Since this 5hread got brought back from the dead, I feel the need to clear a few things up in case anyone reads this again.

Yes, stock, fronts are 6x9's with big tweeters, possibly 2", doesn't matter as I'll tell you why in a second. Tears are 6.5" with tweeters.

A couple people here mentioned that they picked up a cheap amp. STAY AWAY FROM DUAL. They are terrible amplifiers. Hell, all of their products are terrible.

Don't cheap out on car audio. You don't have to spend a grand or spend as much as I did, but $50-$100 for a "400watt" 4 channel amp is going to be crap.

One way to tell if the product is cheap or not, like an amp... If it's marketed by it's Max watts instead if it's RMS (continuous) watts, it's crap. Only thing that matters is RMS like 80wrms x's 4. Max wattage is a marketibg gimmick & means absolutely nothing & shouldnt be paid attention to


If you want to just upgrade your stereo a little bit and not spend much, then save the money and replace the front door speakers with 6x9's and use the money on a decent amp and model of speakers. It's been a few years since I got out of car audio (heqvuly unto car audio for 15 years & very knowledgeable a good 10 years of it on sn expert level) and switched my hobbies to racing sportbikes, so I'll try to come up with what I can off the top of my head.

FYI. A lot if not most brands have products that are what they focus on and products that they produce just to make money. For example. Pioneer. Strengths: Headunits & Navigation Units. Weaknesses: everything else like speakers, amps & subs.

Speakers: Focal, MA Audio, CDT, Boston Audio, and several others I can't think of. Alpine makes OK speakers.

For subwoofers: Sundown Audio, Digital Designs, RE Audio, Alpine (belive it or not), etc...

Amps: JBL, Alpine (overpriced), Kicker, Auduopipe (one of those "sleeper" company's that you'd think would be a cheap crappy amplifiers, but their actually awesome. Puts out it's rated RMS Wattage, if not more and is easy on the wallet. I have 3. AQX-360.4 & two AP1800.1's for my four custom Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 Stock SPL subs. I originally had their monster amp, the AP3000.1, which is actually 2 AP1500.1's strapped together. Really long. I needed at or around 1000wrms for each subwoofer [4], so that's why I got 2 AP1800.1's. 900wrms is close enough.)
Anyway, Digital Designs, Sundown Audio, Clarion, etc..

Anything from a franchised brick & mother store is crap. Go to the custom car audio shops individually owned.


If you want better sound than the 6x9's, 6.5" do sound better than 6x9's musically. 6x9's were designed to be a kind of 1 in all type speaker. Mostly started out in the rear deck of cars to produce bass. So it was designed to produce bass, mid-range, mid-bass & highs. But it has to sacrifice a couple items. One speaker can't do all 4 correctly. 6x9's are Coaxial Speakers, meaning it has the mid-range speaker (the 6x9 cone) and a tweeter in the middle of the speaker.


But a set of good quality 6.5" Component Speakers. Component Speakers are just a 6.5" speaker, external tweeter to be mounted in the dash and a passive crossover. It's a 3 piece system. That way, the 6.5" speaker can produce mid-range sounds and maybe even mid-bass (but you must close up the openings inside your door with balsa wood (or whatever thin wood) and then Dynomatt the door. Of you do that, it creates an enclosure, just like a subwoofer. It took me a good 2 days, bit I closed up all of my holes by cutting wood, installing the wood on the inside of every single opening of the 4 doors with sealant. There were some larger openings, but there were several small openings too. Made a HUGE difference. I then could hear the snair drums, kick drums, or whatever electronical note that causes that frequency. Anyway, the 6.5" speaker also focuses on mid-range like the deeper frequency voices. The the tweeter being in the dash, is actually in the correct staging area in the dash. Allows the tweeters to focus on the highs. The passive crossovers split the frequencies up to the 2 different speakers and even blocks out the low frequencies that are meant for the subwoofer.

Make sure to amplify these speakers. Component Speakers typically require more ppwer than coaxials & need to be amplified. If your speakers take 150wrms x's 2, then you need to buy an amplifier that puts out 175wrms- 200wrms x's 2; a minimum of 10% more than what the speakers are rated for. You don't want to make the amplifier work at 100% when you crank it up. You will also run the risk of not setting the gain correctly and instead of getting it perfect, the amp can start clipping. Yes. A 200wrms amplifier can blow a 700wrms subwoofer and a 75wrms x's 4 amplifier can also blow a set if speakers that are rated for 150wrms due to the amp working beyond its capability and sending clipped signals. I won't get into it any further.

People who put in just a set of components front &, with an amplifier obviously, suddenly figure out they lost something. Bass. You'll need some sort of bass, because your door speakers aren't supposed to produce bass and now they won't.


Do your research. I never buy namebrand car audio equipment. I like to buy the higher quality stuff that you probably never heard of. Namebrand companies spend their money on marketing & big machines to crank out as much quantity as they want whereas a smaller company will spend their money in R&D. It can take the company a year or so to come out with a product, which is usually done by one guy. There's a problem with going with a non-brqnd name company that you may never heard of... If you don't know car audio that well, you may think you're buying high end quality speakers you never heard of, but it could be cheap Chinese stuff. So if it's American made, then it's a damn good odds its a high end company like Sundown Audio. Products made in France or Italy are great too.

My favorite speakers are Focal, Italian. They aren't a small company, but they have all high end stuff. They make speakers, subwoofers & even amplifiers for car audio, home theater and is also what's it most recording studios. A good indication is that distinct yellow speaker cone. I have a set of their highest top
tier model of speakers, a set if Focal Utopia 6.5" speakers. They are 10 years old, but still kicks newer technology's ***. They were $1499. For the rear, I have a set of, the same era as the Utopia's, K2p 6.5" Component Speakers. They were $1299. Today, the Utopia's would fetch atleast $600+ & the K2p's would fetch $400+ today.

Even their lowest tier model line is better than a brand name's top of the line product. For example, I organized a stereo system for a guy & installed it. I had a budget of $1000. He wanted to go with a set of 2nd from the top of the line Kicker (crap SQ) component speakers for $450. Half his budget. But after I took over, I bought a set of the lowest tier model of Focal's; Focal PS165 Component Speakers, 2 Infinity Kappa Perfect VS 10" subs (these were a hidden gem and is an exclusion of the no name brand products. They werr different too as they had a variable tuning capability by 2 different inserts of different sizes plus no insert to match the size of the box. Smallsr the box, smaller thr insert. I left out the inserts abd built a huge, i think 4.5 cubic foot net ported box. Those 10's sounded like 2 12'2 or 2 15's. They whooped so many dual 12" systems. Just like when I was 19, back in 2005, Alpine updated their Type R subwoofers. The surrounding was no longer foam, it was ribbed rubber. They completely updated the entire subwoofer and it was the 3rd highest end line out of 4. 1. Type E, 2. Type S, 3. Type R, 4. Type X. I bought a pair of those 12's and those were amazing. Awesome sound quality and hit hard as hell in my ported box. Huge hit in the car audio world on the car audio message boards for a budget subwoofer.) Anyway, ran an Auduopipe AP1500.1 and a 4 channel bridged to a 2 channel to run 200wrms x's 2 (more than its rated power, but set up correctly by setting up the amp' s settings & settings in the headunit's settings like frequencies & lastly making sure the gain was set right and making sure being set under the GOLDEN RULE OF GAIN SETTING, which is to keep the gain on the amplifier under 75% or no more than 3/4 turned up. I can't remember what amp it was, but it was rated to put out 150wrms x's 4 @ 4 ohm or bridged at 300wrms x's 2 @ 2ohm. So I was running that amp well under it's full capability; 200 total continuous watts under.

You MUST make sure you know what the word impedance means, aka Ohms. Also have to know what wiring in parallel or wiring in series does. You can't put 2 2ohm subs wired up indirectly on a mono amp that can only take a minimum of 2 ohms. Depending how you wire the subwoofers together inside the box, youll grt a final load of 4 ohms, which also means less power or run both wires from both subwoofers straight to the amp & end up with a final load of 1ohm which the amp cant handke. Gets even more difficult when you're dealing with say a pair of dual voicecoil subwoofers. A paur of dual 2 ohm voice coils can be wired in two ways, but either way, you're going to end up with either a final ohm load of 2 ohms or 8 ohms. There are tons of calculators on this website to help you out. It even has pictures to show you how to wire up subs; the12volt.com. Ported box, sealed box calculators, etc...

Then there's the box. It's hard for us truck guys to run ported boxes as they do require more space than sealed. You can find a single 10" or 12" ported subwoofer box to fit under the back seat.

In my 2008 GMA Sierra Crew Cab SLT TEXAS Edition Z-82 Sport, that I bought new & the truck I said I sealed up every hole in every door, I made my own 3" rear seat lift out of 4 square aluminum blocks made out of T-7076. They were a quarter inch thick. Had to make one for the seat belt buckles. I also used Grade 8 Nuts & bolts so there was no safety issues for my rear passengers. If anything, it was stronger.

I raised it to fit my FOUR custom Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 Stock SPL 8" subs. The copper voice coils were replaced with aluminum voice coils to & 2 exgra spider packs to handle the extra power handling increase from 600wrms to now 1000wrms. I built the box to the biggest recommended ported box specifications which was hard enough as it was for FOUR subwoofers, 8's or not, that's no easy task. But on top of that, I wanted it tuned liw, which meant my port had to be longer. And when I say low, I mean I tuned it to 31.5Hz. 98" of 8" subs can't handle anything below 36Hz, but these could handle down to 28Hz. Home theater subs are tuned anywhere from 15Hz - 25Hz.

Most manufactured ported boxes are tuned high; around 38Hz - 45Hz to give off the illusion that the box is extremely loud. Yes, the higher you tune a box (generally), the louder it will be, but then it becomes more of an SPL type box (SPL = Sound Pressure Level aka loudness. Hence the bigger and more popular car audio competitions; SPL Competitions, where the point is to put a special microphone either on the dash or mainly in the floor of every vehicle and the owner sends a one frequency note blast, which is typically 2-3 x's more power than the subwoofer can take, for roughly 3 seconds & record the highest SPL numbers. Anything in the 150dB or higher is competition worthy. But there's also SQ Competitions too, but I won't get into that.)

But anyway, got off topic there. But basically, as I said, most people have their boxes tuned on an average if 35Hz. I wanted Sound Quality. I wanted to be able to hit notes that aren't typically felt and the lower the note, it's more of an earthquake type feeling. So I wanted to hit loe, but still be loud. I figured 31-32Hz would be the best if both worlds. For the typical person, 35Hz is best. If you want loud, then go 38Hz. Want SA-8, go 32 Hz. Best of both is obviously 35Hz.

Box building can be easy if you know carpentry, for sealed boxes. Their sealed, so it's only one calculation; height x's width x's depth = how many cubic feet gross. Minus out the airspace the subwoofer/s take up inside the box, which is on the spec sheet. You also got to make sure to measure the inside dimensions, not the outside dimensions. Also, the only wood used to make subwoofer boxes is out of a sheet of 3/4" MDF wood. Medium Density wood is much better at reproducing sound frequencies than any High Density Wood. Its not priced high either. Atound $25 for a full sheet.

But it takes a whole other skill to build a ported box. Not only do you have to measure for the space taken up by the sibwoofer/s, but you also have to take into consideration how much the port/s take up, but once you take that into consideration, it changes your frequency. If you add a longer port, it will lower your tuning because A. It's a longer port & B. It makes the inside of the box smaller.
It's best to use a box building program or website. There was a website i use to go to that would give me a list of the sheets I needed to cut with the dimensions while also giving me a 3D model. This was only good for 4 sided boxes like a square or rectangle box, but it could be angled. My box was part MDF, but the front was fiberglass. Trying to figure out the dimensions for my truck box that wasn't a perfect H x W x D type box, whole also making sure my port kept me within the frequency range I wanted to stay in. The last hardest part was the fact that I would be moving a lot of air in & out so the port needed to be wide, atleast 3" wide while it was going to be as tall as the back of the box, which was 6" tall. It was in the back of the box, closest to the rear wal of the truck... or the bed. Hard to expmain. Hard to just play with measurements for 2 days with trial & error and then building it.

You can also have a place online or locally build one for you. Online, you need the maximum outer dinensions. Locally, you can drop off your truck with the subs & subwoofers specifications sheet & tell them either what kind of music you listen to mostly or tell them you want it SQ or SPL or both, or give them a final box frequency of you know car audio well enough. Rock is best suited for sealed boxes, but if you also listen to hip hop, then ported will be a good option. Ported boxes are louder, but not punchy like sealed boxes. Depending on how high the ported box was built at, typically, sealed boxes can't dive down low as ported boxes. They tend to flatten out, but they can produce even the very lowest of notes, it just won't be loud at all. Ported boxes... Anything below the frequency it was tuned for, will just basically disappear, but anything above that, up to around 50'osh Hz is quite a bit louder.

But as I said, space has a lot to do with what kind of box you can have. It also depends on the subwoofer. Every subwoofer model is different. There are so many specifications to a subwoofer that makes it perform, sound, react to boxes, etc... You wouldn't k ow what all of those numbers mean. You can be basic as I have told you or you can learn what every spec means and become an expert. He'll, there specs that give put a number I didntveven know what it meant. But 99% of people can't do anything with the 25'ush different specifications, which are in numbers. Those must numbers must be plugged into a very sophisticated program. Forgot what it's called. Bass Box Pro I believe it's called. That's how the highest end of the highest end of complicated boxes are made to extract every frequency bounce off in the perfect way.

Anyway, didn't mean to get into thqt. Disregard that as now you're probably confused.

Basically, when it comes to car audio or box building, don't ask on a Titan forum. You need to get your answers from a car audio forum. Most people on here aren't car audio guru's. There might be a few off-roadung or performance guru's, but not really any car audio guru's.

If you want to know if a brand is good or bad, need advice on what to get, etc... You can PM me or you can join up on caraudio.com. But I don't suggest posting in there. It's been about 5 years since I've been to that site. Been on there for over 15 years, but 10 years actively, bought & sold numerous stuff in their Classifieds, but you won't find much junk in there. I say don't post in there, until you have really become a high level novice or they will rip you to shreds in there. A lot of... I guess their called cyber-bullies now. But you'll get A lot of smart was answers, make fun of you, etc... however, it's how I learned about car audio. I just read and read and read. I went from a 15 years old running Sony Xplode subwoofers running a crap amp, borderline ghetto installed, but the right headunit atleast; $400 Pioneer Premiere headunit. Took me months to save up for it. But took me from a beginner of car audio knowledge of a 1 to an 8 out of 10 (10 being an expert) by the time i was 17. I did TONS of research, 80% of it being on that message board. I didn't even know what Ohms meant. I thought 2ohm or 4 ohm was superior over another.

Anyway. Like I said. If you have questions. You can PM me.
 

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Amps: ... Alpine (overpriced)
Just wanted to comment on the above line...

I bought a pair of (Alpine) 3522 amps brand new in 1989 or 90 ... guess what...

They are in my T right now...27 years later... I've abused them HORRIBLY since the day I bought them and they still sound amazing.

I also have an MRP-T306, that I bought used in like 2003 or 4... same deal... been driving a sub (HARD) the whole time... yet another very reliable Alpine product.

So expensive... yup. Overpriced.. Nah...
 

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Since this 5hread got brought back from the dead, I feel the need to clear a few things up in case anyone reads this again.

Yes, stock, fronts are 6x9's with big tweeters, possibly 2", doesn't matter as I'll tell you why in a second. Tears are 6.5" with tweeters.

A couple people here mentioned that they picked up a cheap amp. STAY AWAY FROM DUAL. They are terrible amplifiers. Hell, all of their products are terrible.

Don't cheap out on car audio. You don't have to spend a grand or spend as much as I did, but $50-$100 for a "400watt" 4 channel amp is going to be crap.

One way to tell if the product is cheap or not, like an amp... If it's marketed by it's Max watts instead if it's RMS (continuous) watts, it's crap. Only thing that matters is RMS like 80wrms x's 4. Max wattage is a marketibg gimmick & means absolutely nothing & shouldnt be paid attention to


If you want to just upgrade your stereo a little bit and not spend much, then save the money and replace the front door speakers with 6x9's and use the money on a decent amp and model of speakers. It's been a few years since I got out of car audio (heqvuly unto car audio for 15 years & very knowledgeable a good 10 years of it on sn expert level) and switched my hobbies to racing sportbikes, so I'll try to come up with what I can off the top of my head.

FYI. A lot if not most brands have products that are what they focus on and products that they produce just to make money. For example. Pioneer. Strengths: Headunits & Navigation Units. Weaknesses: everything else like speakers, amps & subs.

Speakers: Focal, MA Audio, CDT, Boston Audio, and several others I can't think of. Alpine makes OK speakers.

For subwoofers: Sundown Audio, Digital Designs, RE Audio, Alpine (belive it or not), etc...

Amps: JBL, Alpine (overpriced), Kicker, Auduopipe (one of those "sleeper" company's that you'd think would be a cheap crappy amplifiers, but their actually awesome. Puts out it's rated RMS Wattage, if not more and is easy on the wallet. I have 3. AQX-360.4 & two AP1800.1's for my four custom Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 Stock SPL subs. I originally had their monster amp, the AP3000.1, which is actually 2 AP1500.1's strapped together. Really long. I needed at or around 1000wrms for each subwoofer [4], so that's why I got 2 AP1800.1's. 900wrms is close enough.)
Anyway, Digital Designs, Sundown Audio, Clarion, etc..

Anything from a franchised brick & mother store is crap. Go to the custom car audio shops individually owned.


If you want better sound than the 6x9's, 6.5" do sound better than 6x9's musically. 6x9's were designed to be a kind of 1 in all type speaker. Mostly started out in the rear deck of cars to produce bass. So it was designed to produce bass, mid-range, mid-bass & highs. But it has to sacrifice a couple items. One speaker can't do all 4 correctly. 6x9's are Coaxial Speakers, meaning it has the mid-range speaker (the 6x9 cone) and a tweeter in the middle of the speaker.


But a set of good quality 6.5" Component Speakers. Component Speakers are just a 6.5" speaker, external tweeter to be mounted in the dash and a passive crossover. It's a 3 piece system. That way, the 6.5" speaker can produce mid-range sounds and maybe even mid-bass (but you must close up the openings inside your door with balsa wood (or whatever thin wood) and then Dynomatt the door. Of you do that, it creates an enclosure, just like a subwoofer. It took me a good 2 days, bit I closed up all of my holes by cutting wood, installing the wood on the inside of every single opening of the 4 doors with sealant. There were some larger openings, but there were several small openings too. Made a HUGE difference. I then could hear the snair drums, kick drums, or whatever electronical note that causes that frequency. Anyway, the 6.5" speaker also focuses on mid-range like the deeper frequency voices. The the tweeter being in the dash, is actually in the correct staging area in the dash. Allows the tweeters to focus on the highs. The passive crossovers split the frequencies up to the 2 different speakers and even blocks out the low frequencies that are meant for the subwoofer.

Make sure to amplify these speakers. Component Speakers typically require more ppwer than coaxials & need to be amplified. If your speakers take 150wrms x's 2, then you need to buy an amplifier that puts out 175wrms- 200wrms x's 2; a minimum of 10% more than what the speakers are rated for. You don't want to make the amplifier work at 100% when you crank it up. You will also run the risk of not setting the gain correctly and instead of getting it perfect, the amp can start clipping. Yes. A 200wrms amplifier can blow a 700wrms subwoofer and a 75wrms x's 4 amplifier can also blow a set if speakers that are rated for 150wrms due to the amp working beyond its capability and sending clipped signals. I won't get into it any further.

People who put in just a set of components front &, with an amplifier obviously, suddenly figure out they lost something. Bass. You'll need some sort of bass, because your door speakers aren't supposed to produce bass and now they won't.


Do your research. I never buy namebrand car audio equipment. I like to buy the higher quality stuff that you probably never heard of. Namebrand companies spend their money on marketing & big machines to crank out as much quantity as they want whereas a smaller company will spend their money in R&D. It can take the company a year or so to come out with a product, which is usually done by one guy. There's a problem with going with a non-brqnd name company that you may never heard of... If you don't know car audio that well, you may think you're buying high end quality speakers you never heard of, but it could be cheap Chinese stuff. So if it's American made, then it's a damn good odds its a high end company like Sundown Audio. Products made in France or Italy are great too.

My favorite speakers are Focal, Italian. They aren't a small company, but they have all high end stuff. They make speakers, subwoofers & even amplifiers for car audio, home theater and is also what's it most recording studios. A good indication is that distinct yellow speaker cone. I have a set of their highest top
tier model of speakers, a set if Focal Utopia 6.5" speakers. They are 10 years old, but still kicks newer technology's ***. They were $1499. For the rear, I have a set of, the same era as the Utopia's, K2p 6.5" Component Speakers. They were $1299. Today, the Utopia's would fetch atleast $600+ & the K2p's would fetch $400+ today.

Even their lowest tier model line is better than a brand name's top of the line product. For example, I organized a stereo system for a guy & installed it. I had a budget of $1000. He wanted to go with a set of 2nd from the top of the line Kicker (crap SQ) component speakers for $450. Half his budget. But after I took over, I bought a set of the lowest tier model of Focal's; Focal PS165 Component Speakers, 2 Infinity Kappa Perfect VS 10" subs (these were a hidden gem and is an exclusion of the no name brand products. They werr different too as they had a variable tuning capability by 2 different inserts of different sizes plus no insert to match the size of the box. Smallsr the box, smaller thr insert. I left out the inserts abd built a huge, i think 4.5 cubic foot net ported box. Those 10's sounded like 2 12'2 or 2 15's. They whooped so many dual 12" systems. Just like when I was 19, back in 2005, Alpine updated their Type R subwoofers. The surrounding was no longer foam, it was ribbed rubber. They completely updated the entire subwoofer and it was the 3rd highest end line out of 4. 1. Type E, 2. Type S, 3. Type R, 4. Type X. I bought a pair of those 12's and those were amazing. Awesome sound quality and hit hard as hell in my ported box. Huge hit in the car audio world on the car audio message boards for a budget subwoofer.) Anyway, ran an Auduopipe AP1500.1 and a 4 channel bridged to a 2 channel to run 200wrms x's 2 (more than its rated power, but set up correctly by setting up the amp' s settings & settings in the headunit's settings like frequencies & lastly making sure the gain was set right and making sure being set under the GOLDEN RULE OF GAIN SETTING, which is to keep the gain on the amplifier under 75% or no more than 3/4 turned up. I can't remember what amp it was, but it was rated to put out 150wrms x's 4 @ 4 ohm or bridged at 300wrms x's 2 @ 2ohm. So I was running that amp well under it's full capability; 200 total continuous watts under.

You MUST make sure you know what the word impedance means, aka Ohms. Also have to know what wiring in parallel or wiring in series does. You can't put 2 2ohm subs wired up indirectly on a mono amp that can only take a minimum of 2 ohms. Depending how you wire the subwoofers together inside the box, youll grt a final load of 4 ohms, which also means less power or run both wires from both subwoofers straight to the amp & end up with a final load of 1ohm which the amp cant handke. Gets even more difficult when you're dealing with say a pair of dual voicecoil subwoofers. A paur of dual 2 ohm voice coils can be wired in two ways, but either way, you're going to end up with either a final ohm load of 2 ohms or 8 ohms. There are tons of calculators on this website to help you out. It even has pictures to show you how to wire up subs; the12volt.com. Ported box, sealed box calculators, etc...

Then there's the box. It's hard for us truck guys to run ported boxes as they do require more space than sealed. You can find a single 10" or 12" ported subwoofer box to fit under the back seat.

In my 2008 GMA Sierra Crew Cab SLT TEXAS Edition Z-82 Sport, that I bought new & the truck I said I sealed up every hole in every door, I made my own 3" rear seat lift out of 4 square aluminum blocks made out of T-7076. They were a quarter inch thick. Had to make one for the seat belt buckles. I also used Grade 8 Nuts & bolts so there was no safety issues for my rear passengers. If anything, it was stronger.

I raised it to fit my FOUR custom Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 Stock SPL 8" subs. The copper voice coils were replaced with aluminum voice coils to & 2 exgra spider packs to handle the extra power handling increase from 600wrms to now 1000wrms. I built the box to the biggest recommended ported box specifications which was hard enough as it was for FOUR subwoofers, 8's or not, that's no easy task. But on top of that, I wanted it tuned liw, which meant my port had to be longer. And when I say low, I mean I tuned it to 31.5Hz. 98" of 8" subs can't handle anything below 36Hz, but these could handle down to 28Hz. Home theater subs are tuned anywhere from 15Hz - 25Hz.

Most manufactured ported boxes are tuned high; around 38Hz - 45Hz to give off the illusion that the box is extremely loud. Yes, the higher you tune a box (generally), the louder it will be, but then it becomes more of an SPL type box (SPL = Sound Pressure Level aka loudness. Hence the bigger and more popular car audio competitions; SPL Competitions, where the point is to put a special microphone either on the dash or mainly in the floor of every vehicle and the owner sends a one frequency note blast, which is typically 2-3 x's more power than the subwoofer can take, for roughly 3 seconds & record the highest SPL numbers. Anything in the 150dB or higher is competition worthy. But there's also SQ Competitions too, but I won't get into that.)

But anyway, got off topic there. But basically, as I said, most people have their boxes tuned on an average if 35Hz. I wanted Sound Quality. I wanted to be able to hit notes that aren't typically felt and the lower the note, it's more of an earthquake type feeling. So I wanted to hit loe, but still be loud. I figured 31-32Hz would be the best if both worlds. For the typical person, 35Hz is best. If you want loud, then go 38Hz. Want SA-8, go 32 Hz. Best of both is obviously 35Hz.

Box building can be easy if you know carpentry, for sealed boxes. Their sealed, so it's only one calculation; height x's width x's depth = how many cubic feet gross. Minus out the airspace the subwoofer/s take up inside the box, which is on the spec sheet. You also got to make sure to measure the inside dimensions, not the outside dimensions. Also, the only wood used to make subwoofer boxes is out of a sheet of 3/4" MDF wood. Medium Density wood is much better at reproducing sound frequencies than any High Density Wood. Its not priced high either. Atound $25 for a full sheet.

But it takes a whole other skill to build a ported box. Not only do you have to measure for the space taken up by the sibwoofer/s, but you also have to take into consideration how much the port/s take up, but once you take that into consideration, it changes your frequency. If you add a longer port, it will lower your tuning because A. It's a longer port & B. It makes the inside of the box smaller.
It's best to use a box building program or website. There was a website i use to go to that would give me a list of the sheets I needed to cut with the dimensions while also giving me a 3D model. This was only good for 4 sided boxes like a square or rectangle box, but it could be angled. My box was part MDF, but the front was fiberglass. Trying to figure out the dimensions for my truck box that wasn't a perfect H x W x D type box, whole also making sure my port kept me within the frequency range I wanted to stay in. The last hardest part was the fact that I would be moving a lot of air in & out so the port needed to be wide, atleast 3" wide while it was going to be as tall as the back of the box, which was 6" tall. It was in the back of the box, closest to the rear wal of the truck... or the bed. Hard to expmain. Hard to just play with measurements for 2 days with trial & error and then building it.

You can also have a place online or locally build one for you. Online, you need the maximum outer dinensions. Locally, you can drop off your truck with the subs & subwoofers specifications sheet & tell them either what kind of music you listen to mostly or tell them you want it SQ or SPL or both, or give them a final box frequency of you know car audio well enough. Rock is best suited for sealed boxes, but if you also listen to hip hop, then ported will be a good option. Ported boxes are louder, but not punchy like sealed boxes. Depending on how high the ported box was built at, typically, sealed boxes can't dive down low as ported boxes. They tend to flatten out, but they can produce even the very lowest of notes, it just won't be loud at all. Ported boxes... Anything below the frequency it was tuned for, will just basically disappear, but anything above that, up to around 50'osh Hz is quite a bit louder.

But as I said, space has a lot to do with what kind of box you can have. It also depends on the subwoofer. Every subwoofer model is different. There are so many specifications to a subwoofer that makes it perform, sound, react to boxes, etc... You wouldn't k ow what all of those numbers mean. You can be basic as I have told you or you can learn what every spec means and become an expert. He'll, there specs that give put a number I didntveven know what it meant. But 99% of people can't do anything with the 25'ush different specifications, which are in numbers. Those must numbers must be plugged into a very sophisticated program. Forgot what it's called. Bass Box Pro I believe it's called. That's how the highest end of the highest end of complicated boxes are made to extract every frequency bounce off in the perfect way.

Anyway, didn't mean to get into thqt. Disregard that as now you're probably confused.

Basically, when it comes to car audio or box building, don't ask on a Titan forum. You need to get your answers from a car audio forum. Most people on here aren't car audio guru's. There might be a few off-roadung or performance guru's, but not really any car audio guru's.

If you want to know if a brand is good or bad, need advice on what to get, etc... You can PM me or you can join up on caraudio.com. But I don't suggest posting in there. It's been about 5 years since I've been to that site. Been on there for over 15 years, but 10 years actively, bought & sold numerous stuff in their Classifieds, but you won't find much junk in there. I say don't post in there, until you have really become a high level novice or they will rip you to shreds in there. A lot of... I guess their called cyber-bullies now. But you'll get A lot of smart was answers, make fun of you, etc... however, it's how I learned about car audio. I just read and read and read. I went from a 15 years old running Sony Xplode subwoofers running a crap amp, borderline ghetto installed, but the right headunit atleast; $400 Pioneer Premiere headunit. Took me months to save up for it. But took me from a beginner of car audio knowledge of a 1 to an 8 out of 10 (10 being an expert) by the time i was 17. I did TONS of research, 80% of it being on that message board. I didn't even know what Ohms meant. I thought 2ohm or 4 ohm was superior over another.

Anyway. Like I said. If you have questions. You can PM me.
Wow. That is a lot of information. I just bought a bunch of stuff and after reading this I think I should have made different purchases... lol. Oh well, live and learn. I'll install it all and see how I like it I guess.
 

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Great thread - any recommendations on crossover frequencies that work well in Titan cabs for component tweeters mounted in the dash up front?
 

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For you guys who did upgrade door speakers and run an amp did you still use the dash tweeters or just disconnected them? Is the dash tweeters running an inline crossover or does the head unit do that? I bought my '15 S used and did not have the RF stereo but has an aftermarket Sony DVD double din unit. Speakers sound like poop so I wanted to add an amp (older alpine 40x4) and some different speakers. Not looking to run ultra high end audio but need a little bit better then what I got. So if I buy some kicker 3 way 6x9's what would you guys do about the dash tweeters?
 
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