[05smokecc]

well turns out it wasnt the cap, overheated on me again on wed. took it back into the shop and they cannot figure out what it is...time for a new truck

 

[Hondo]

Did you ever resolve this? My 04 Titan 4x4 does the same thing - but it seems to be only when I'm towing... I've replaced the thermostat, the waterpump, the fan clutch, checked that the electric fan/relay is working properly and verified that there is no air in the system. System isn't leaking or pressurising excessively to show symtoms of cracked head. What's strange is that the temp is perfectly fine when I'm not towing. If I'm towing (boat), it will spike from normal up to the 3/4 line before the H - and it does it QUICK! If I run the heater from the moment I leave the driveway while I am towing, the temp does perfectly fine - doesn't budge! If I turn the heater off, it quickly starts to climb (even when on the highway). I did notice that sometimes when I switch from AC to heater that it may take several minutes for heat to start blowing out of the vents - which is usually a sign of either a clogged heater core, or no water getting to the heater core??? I'm new to Titans so still trying to figure this thing out... Is there a possibility that a heater valve sticking shut could have something to do with it not getting full flow through the system, causing it to overheat when under a load??? I'm pretty skilled under the hood & have a mechanic in the family, but we're both to the point where we're scratchin our head here because the only way we can re-create the problem is by test driving with a heavy trailer behind us!! I'm ready to buy an extra electric fan with a manual switch for when I'm towing, adding on a tranny cooler and an oil cooler, just so I can pull my boat with the AC on (it's hot in TX!!!) Don't want to spend any more un-necessary $$$, so if you figured out what this issue was, I know at least 2 people that would be REALLY interested in knowing as well!!!

 

[bestatchess]

Is there a possibility that a heater valve sticking shut could have something to do with it not getting full flow through the system, causing it to overheat when under a load???

There is a valve in the supply line to the heater core, but the block, heads and oil cooler are on a parallel cooling loop so that coolant should still circulate with the heater valve closed.

 

[bestatchess]

"Today, many shops have infrared thermometers, which, among other things, do a great job of nailing plugged radiators. If your shop has an IR thermometer, have them scan the core thoroughly from top to bottom. Any obvious cool spots are cause for concern. In the absence of an infrared, you can have your technician wet down the core with the engine running at operating temperature. If one part of the core stays wet longer, that's a pretty good indication that there's a restriction somewhere in that area. If either the infrared scan or the wet test indicates a plugged core, I think your tech is perfectly justified in suggesting that the radiator be sent out for flow-testing and tanking."

 

[Hondo]

Forgot to mention - Truck is NOT the "tow pkg" edition with the lower gear ratio, etc. So I don't believe it has any extra coolers on it (yet)! It's a big boat, so if that's the problem, and the factory cooling system isn't beefed up enough to handle, I can add. Water appears to be flowing very well - but for some reason still have to run the heater when pulling to keep temp from spiking. Can't imagine that a 5.6 liter can't pull a 22 foot ski rig without overheating though - just doesn't seem right! I've also replaced the radiator cap & according to the receipts in truck when I bought it, the radiator was replaced in December 2010 by Nissan dealer, I can put the Infra-red on it next time to double check it though! Thermostat wasn't a Nissan Thermostat, but wasn't a cheap one either - and still exhibited same exact symptoms (immediately) after replacement. Cap is a Standt, so figure it should be up to factory spec.

 

[Quartz]

If you look at the core of a stock Titan radiator it's only half as thick as the tanks. The CSF radiator core is twice as thick as the stock radiator. I would imagine it would help some of these overheating Titans a lot.

 

[bestatchess]

Forgot to mention - Truck is NOT the "tow pkg" edition with the lower gear ratio, etc. So I don't believe it has any extra coolers on it (yet)!

AFAIK, everybody has the same oem coolers, Big Tow adds tranny temp gauge.

Cap is a Standt, so figure it should be up to factory spec.

The overflow tank cap is apparently the primary pressure relief at 14 to 18 psi.

 

[bestatchess]

If you look at the core of a stock Titan radiator it's only half as thick as the tanks. The CSF radiator core is twice as thick as the stock radiator. I would imagine it would help some of these overheating Titans a lot.

Yeah, I bought one from Stillen for the extra $100.:crying: I'm about to install a Hayden 679 ATF cooler per bills thread.

 

[Hondo]

Haven't tried the overflow cap yet, it definitely holds, but could be possible that it's not releasing pressure when it should. I just looked up the CSF/Stillen Radiator & that looks like it be my way to go! Thanks for turnin me on to that - 2 rows of core is always better than one! I use the truck primarily for towing, so will do that asap, plus add the extra oil cooler, external tranny cooler and maybe the over sized tranny pan just to prevent that side of the drive train once I get this engine temp thing resolved. Since I don't have a tranny temp guage, I'd be scared to know what wear & tear is happenin down there that I can't see on the dashboard! I saw an external air-conditioned tranny cooler on a site a minute ago, but don't think I need to go that far!

 

[Davegvg]

I tow heavy loads under brutal desert conditions and have experienced overheating a few times.

I replaced the marginal factory plastic-y single core unit with the CFS/ Stillen dual core unit.

This unit is beautifully made a work of welding art and I have had zero issue as well as I noticed that the transmission actually runs cooler than it did with the factory radiator.


Uncle Dave

 

[Hondo]

K just got my CSF dual core in - now to figure out how to install it! This thing doesn't just lift out & it looks like it's attached to the condenser?... Diggin for quick and easy instruction w photos now. (Also had to figure out an apparant problem with rear drum breaks making clicking sound at low speed when slowing down or turning - will put that one on a different post!)

 

[Hondo]

K. My first CSF came in and the side of radiator was crushed in from no padding inside the box. Finally got the new one in the truck and here's the outcome! After replacing the thermostat, radiator cap, waterpump, condensor fan relay, fan clutch (none of which fixed the problem)... one dual core CSF radiator later, and BAM! Pulled my truck all over Texas this weekend (over 300 miles total drive time) - stop n go traffic with the AC on full blast, 106 degree summer heat - and the needle didn't budge! Problem solved! No more overheating!

 

[Citadel]

Glad you got it fixed, nice read and solution (should I run into the same problem :teethmast )

 

[Hondo]

Just noticed I put "Pulled my Truck"... meant "Pulled my Boat!" - Had the boat behind me all weekend with AC full blast in Texas summer heat... no probs! If similar situation ever happens w anyone else - before anyone goes pulling their heads off... definitely try the CSF radiator first!!! You might have to make a quick mod and grind out your external tranny cooler mounts a bit for it to fit right on front of radiator, but other than that, it's an extact fit.

 

[Quartz]

That CSF radiator is a hell of a piece of equipment. I highly recommend it.