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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got the SES light and cleared the code. Its come back on a couple times and so I read it and it indicated that it was the passenger side 02 sensor in front of the cat. I cleared the code again, and replaced the sensor. Only now the SES light came on right after I replaced it? what gives? I dont have a scanner so I'll need to borrow a friends again.
 

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what was the code #
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
what was the code #
It wasn't the usual oxygen sensor code that everyone gets. I had to look it up and it said it was the o2 sensor. I'll have to retest again. I borrowed the obd scanner so hopefully I can get the same code when I read it again.
 

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Definetly run some injector cleaner and clean that maf sensor if you haven't already, that's what I did after replacing 3 sensors :ftard:

Let us know what goes on after!
 

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When replacing one of the front A/F sensors you MUST clear the ECMs self learning memory or the code will pop right back up. Had this exact problem. My code was 1283. lean shift. As far as cleaning the MAF goes, make sure you clean it with the proper stuff. Im not sure if I cleaned it wrong or if the MAF was just going bad but I had to replace mine and replace the A/F sensor for my light to go off.

Follow this procedure. Taken from another website.

Without CONSULT-II
1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Turn ignition switch OFF.
3. Disconnect mass air flow sensor harness connector, and restart
and run engine for at least 5 seconds at idle speed.
4. Stop engine and reconnect mass air flow sensor harness connector.
5. Make sure DTC P0102 is displayed.
6. Erase the DTC memory. Refer to EC-662, "HOW TO ERASE
EMISSION-RELATED DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION" .
7. Make sure DTC P0000 is displayed.
8. Run engine for at least 10 minutes at idle speed.
Is the 1st trip DTC P0171 or P0172 detected? (Yes or No)
Is it difficult to start engine? (Yes or No)

If answer is "No" to last two questions, then you should be cleared
and good to go.

I believe what they are just saying in #6 is to erase any DTCs from
the ECU. OP already said he knows how to do that with the gas pedal.
You can also use a generic scan tool to erase DTCs at this point, or
you can leave the battery disconnected for 24 hrs. Manual says it must
be disconnected for at least 24 hrs to erase all data.
 

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I got the SES light and cleared the code. Its come back on a couple times and so I read it and it indicated that it was the passenger side 02 sensor in front of the cat. I cleared the code again, and replaced the sensor. Only now the SES light came on right after I replaced it? what gives? I dont have a scanner so I'll need to borrow a friends again.
So even after replacing your oxygen sensor, the light turns on again? Replacing the sensor is a short-lived solution to the problem. The light turns on because the sensor detects that the engine is not meeting the proper voltage. The battery supplies electrical power to run the vehicle, but it also controls and stabilizes system voltage. Whenever you’re diagnosing a “Check Engine” light, it is important to start by having the battery tested. An automotive computer is like any other computer; proper input voltage is critical. A bad battery can cause problems in electrical and electronic parts including the computer. It can even cause a “Check Engine” light.
Next, test the alternator and pay close attention to the condition of its diodes. An alternator produces alternating current (AC), but cars work on direct current (DC), making a conversion necessary. Because some vehicle sensors normally produce AC signals for the computer, a false AC signal from a bad diode (“garbage in”) can make your computer produce faulty output signals (“garbage out”). The computer can’t distinguish between an AC signal from a sensor and a false one from the alternator. This can lead to rough shifting, performance problems, codes, and, yes, a “Check Engine” light. In this case, the “Check Engine” light and codes would probably be false.
 
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