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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So this is my issue.
I have a 2008 titan. Engine was smoking bad and burning 2 quarts of oil a week. I decided to do an engine swap over a rebuild. I found a used one from LKQ that was from a 2008 Armada. Exact fit. I pulled the old engine out, and noticed the flywheels were different. Same size and teeth count but the cut out design was not identical. I decided to not change flywheels so I kept the flywheel on the new engine that it came with. My original flywheel is still attached to my junk engine. When I fired up the engine all is good. Except...I'm throwing a p0336 code for crankshaft position sensor , It takes 5 to seven seconds to start, and I can't go above 3000RPM. I've put in a new sensor and made sure it wasn't a camshaft sensor after reading the service bulletin posted in here about the confusion between the two... is there a relearn process for a new crank sensor with the titans? Or should I get a sensor for a Nissan Armada? I'm stummped...
 

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"Or should I get a sensor for a Nissan Armada?"

Are they different? I'd call Courtesy Parts and made sure that I had the right part number and that they were compatible. It's confusing, there seems to be numerous different part numbers.

"I'm stummped"

Long shot: There are procedures in the service manual for testing (without Consult) grounds and the harness connector to the sensor using a "tester" which is presumably a DMM.

"Engine was smoking bad and burning 2 quarts of oil a week."

Cat failure?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah. I got online to a Nissan dealership and confirmed they are the same.
I tested the grounds and voltage level in the harness terminal and got the battery voltage. Double checked the three ground wires that are on the engine harness to be sure they had good contact as well. I did have trouble getting a reading in the CSP sensor, either because there wasn't a reading due to it failing or could just be because i had a hard time getting a good connection on the sensor prongs with the multi-meter even when i was using A-clips. I'm assuming it's bad. The issue is finding a replacement. The dealer wants $130 for it. If I dont find one this weekend, I'll have to cough up $130. Rock Auto, Auto-zone and Advanced Auto-parts have sensors that they claim will work, but none of them have part numbers on the sensor so I have no I idea if they are the right ones and after trying 2 different sensors w/o part #'s im not playing that cat and mouse game anymore of going from parts store to parts store having to explain about the STB update and that I dont care that there system says its crank, when the crank and cam are identical but not interchangeable and cant be identified without printed part numbers.. I've tried two sensors without part #'s and nothing changed when I installed them. I wont know for sure until I can confirm with an actual OEM sensor with printed part # on it, assumptions can cause lots of necessary wasted time.

The cats did fail, but that was do to the oil being burned over a long period of time. Burning oil caused the Cats to get clogged up and I just hollowed all 4 out after the front two got so oil saturarted that exhast flow was being restricted and causing major acceleration issues. I still need to delete them from the ECU with up-rev though. Ill do that after I figure out whats causing this. Gas mileage suffered a little, but I did that MOD back in January and dont think it's related to the current symptom.

I hope the issue will be solved with a new sensor. I ordered one from a local auto-parts supplier who claims he can get the sensor with the part # on it. Charged me a whole $11 for it. But have to wait until Monday for it to arrive. If that doesn't solve the issue, I am going to replace the battery. After all the cranking required to start the truck I've noticed the charge final charge has dropped. Im just worried, that if I put in a genuine sensor and replace the battery, and the issue still exist... I'm not sure what else to do. The FSM is a lifesaver, but sometimes the diagnostic procedure steps are a pain in the *** and hard to understand. It said to both Exhaust manifolds in order to remove engine and that wasnt necessary. I flew the engine back into the truck with both manifolds and transmission attached... Would have been really nice to have pulled it out that way as well. I have no mechanic background and just am going off of what the FSM says and what I read on here, so I often read procedures in the book and have no clue what it means until I go to the section it says to readt to preform or remove something. Doesn't take long to be rerouted through 5 or six sections just to disconnect something... I've damn near pulled everything apart on the truck over the years trying to figure out why I was burning oil or losing acceleration, hoping and praying that it wasnt the piston seals and valve seals or Cats..... Ive dropped the fuel tank and put in a fuel pumps, done compression and leak down checks, fuel pressure checks, cylinder head replacements. This forum has helped but at the same time, sometimes I read horror stories on here. I like the Titan more and more every time I work on it because I get more familiar with it. I'm keeping the old engine and going to rebuild it just because I've never done that before and want to know how. Figured a DOHC should be a perfect starter rebuild that I can work on slowly since its already out of the truck just siting in my garage. maybe I give the VK56 to VK60 stroker conversion to it as well... Really have no intention or desire to get a new truck. Then I would just have to learn how to fix **** all over again...

Also, I still am using the TB off the original engine, but do I need to do a throttle body relearn process? Idle struggles periodically but I think(hope) the sensor failure is causing that... I cant ever seem to do the TB re-learn process and notice anything to confirm I did it correctly. Theres like 6 different ways/versions people say to do it...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update. Installed genuine Nilsson crnkshft sensor. Problem still exist. Everyone I talk to says its the MAF sensor. I disagree. No codes showing for MAF sensor. Next step is to follow FSM step by step in diagnosing fault. I'm on the multimeter step and have begun testing for continuity and voltage on ECM pins and engine wire harness...FML.. I hate doing multimeter electrical short hunting...
 

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"throwing a p0336 code for crankshaft position sensor" Is that a typo? Is it actually a p0335 code?

Per the service manual, that's actually a P0335 code for the crank sensor (CKP). I can't even find P0336 in section EC of the 2008 service manual. There's some general (non Titan specific) stuff on the net that associates OBDII code P0336 with a bank 1 camshaft sensor. The Titan service manual describes the camshaft sensor code as P0340 CMP SENSOR (PHASE). So I'm confused.
 
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