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Service engine light has been on for the past two weeks. Took it to autozone today and the error code was P0447. They reset it and it went off. Few hours later, got in and crunk it, it came back on. I used to have a locking gas cap on which made the ses light come on. Put the original cap back on and the light remains on. The probable causes listed for P0447 are.
1. Purge or vent solenoids defective.
2. Check connector and wiring.
3. Fuel saturated vapoer canister.
4. Failed EVAP vent solenoid.
 

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There's a TSB out for the vent control valve inside the Evap canister.
The TSB doen not list the P0447 but it's about the same problems. I'll check to see if there's an updated version of that TSB.
 

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that is good info...

i was thinking about getting a locking gas cap

it seems the cap is not at fault then
 

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I had the same SES come up and I had a new vent control put in. Putting gas in was a pain because if you fill it to fast gas went everywhere.
 

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Seems like an increasingly common problem. After getting the code about 4 or 5 months ago, had the valve cleaned and reinstalled. Has worked fine since but the mechanic told me they are replacing a lot of the control valves.
 

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I got the code in August. Checked on here and saw it was the vent control valve. After reading that it doesn't hurt anything to not have it taken care of, i decided not to replace it for a while. Inspection time is coming up and i replaced it yesterday. I finished up and drove it a bit, light stayed on. Wanting to make sure i fixed the issue, i reset the codes with the gas pedal sequence. The light went out and i drove it for a while without issue. I started the truck to go to work this morning, and the code came up again. I stopped close to work and pulled the code. P0447 again. I reset it on the side of the road, and it went out again, and hasn't come back on again. I would assume if it were a wiring issue, the code would have never gone away, even after a reset.

If it comes back on again, is there anything i should look for other than the valve assembly or the wiring?

The truck is a 2010 SE CC 4x4 with about 78000 miles. The light first came on with about 73000 miles on it. I replaced the original part with the Dorman 911-504 from amazon for about 63 bucks. USPS delivered it on a Sunday too!!!
 

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So it came back on that day again. I keep forgetting to, but im gonna bring the old one to work and test and clean it. Perhaps a wire has corroded and broke? Not sure how to test to see if thats the issue yet. Not sure how to test, other than continuity.
 

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I used compressed air to blow it out thoroughly. After that, apply 12V across the contacts and the solenoid should operate. If not, there may be a bigger problem.
 

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I finally got around to testing the old part, and it tested fine. I would assume the new part is functioning well also, so the problem is elsewhere. I found a video of pictures on youtube about the issue. The guy replaced the part and still had the code. It was an open wire going to the connector under the truck to the valve. I will be spending most of the day tomorrow under the truck and will report my findings. So far, I know the connector has a constant 12 volts on one side, and the other side is a signal from the ECM that actuates the valve. In the video I saw, the signal wire was the issue. It goes from one side of the connector to the ECM harness (pin 117), crosses under the truck and goes up the passenger side into the harness near the fuse panel.

Again, I will update my findings and take pictures in case someone else down the road has a similar issue.
 

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I found the problem. It was a pin hole in the jacket for the signal wire about 1.5 feet from the vent valve connector. The right side tested good with 12 volts. The other side was an open. I found it by checking continuity from the connector to the ECM harness pin 117. No good there. Followed the line from the connector to the harness just under the front of the passenger side front door. No good there. Found the first wire loom junction and tested there fine. Found the second and no continuity. Opened the loom and found the issue right away by running my fingers down the wire.

Cut out about 6 inches of black corroded wire and replaced with a piece of wire, soldered and shrink wrapped at both ends. Then electrical taped it and stuffed it back into the loom then taped the loom.

Started the truck and immediately the light went out. Hope it stays that way at least till March when inspection is done.

I did say i was gonna post pics, but the only good one is of the wire issue which ill post. The rest was very basic wire troubleshooting.

Good thing about where it was is that i was able to drop the spare tire out and sit indian style under the bed to fix it. Woulda sucked if i had to lay down and solder over my head.
 

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