Nissan Titan Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Two big bangs twice in one day, got out and looked all around and under the truck, nothing to see, it ran and stopped fine.
Today, my wife takes it to work, calls to say she heard a bang and the ABS and Slip lights are on.
A little research here and lo and behold, my RR parking brake fell apart and ate up the innerds.

Do I need an axle?


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
831 Posts
Two big bangs twice in one day, got out and looked all around and under the truck, nothing to see, it ran and stopped fine.
Today, my wife takes it to work, calls to say she heard a bang and the ABS and Slip lights are on.
A little research here and lo and behold, my RR parking brake fell apart and ate up the innerds.

Do I need an axle?


Holy crap! Unfortunate

I know a guy doing a dana 60 swap that may be selling an axle...pale rider

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,957 Posts
Two big bangs twice in one day, got out and looked all around and under the truck, nothing to see, it ran and stopped fine.
Today, my wife takes it to work, calls to say she heard a bang and the ABS and Slip lights are on.
A little research here and lo and behold, my RR parking brake fell apart and ate up the innerds.

Do I need an axle?


You WILL need:
a new ABS sensor (~$80-$120)
New tone ring (Axle must be pulled, old one pressed off, new pressed on. This will likely result in replacement of the axle bearing as well)
New axle seal (Result of above procedure)
All new hardware (~$17)
new pads DO NOT GET OEM NISSAN PADS!!! (~$30)
The hard part, is sourcing the toggle box... it does not come in the hardware packet, and are expensive to order, i see in the pic yours is even more hammered than mine was.

Well known issue, ask me how I know! It may have damaged your axle seal, but there is no need to replace the entire rear axle, just the tone ring, seal, possibly bearings, and MAKE SURE to get the OEM garbage OUT of the other side too before it doubles the repair bill. You are honestly better off completely deleting OEM Titan parking brakes (No matter year or mileage) than driving with them. The Duralast stuff from auto-zone is MUCH more durable than the OEM.

On good note, your truck will be completely driveable with the parking brakes removed. You will have the ABS/SLIP fault lit up until it is all repaired, but it will still run around no problem. Just check for seepage at the axle seal. I drove on mine without parking brakes, and with the ABS light on for MONTHS after mine exploded, in some heavy-duty situations, much off-road. If you are 4x4, you can still even use that, you just need to shut the truck off completely, wait about 10 seconds, switch the selector to desired setting, and then start it up. Same procedure for going back to 2. It's not the end of the world, but it does suck. It won't be cheap, but it won't require an entire new axle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
You WILL need:
a new ABS sensor (~$80-$120)
New tone ring (Axle must be pulled, old one pressed off, new pressed on. This will likely result in replacement of the axle bearing as well)
New axle seal (Result of above procedure)
All new hardware (~$17)
new pads DO NOT GET OEM NISSAN PADS!!! (~$30)
The hard part, is sourcing the toggle box... it does not come in the hardware packet, and are expensive to order, i see in the pic yours is even more hammered than mine was.

Well known issue, ask me how I know! It may have damaged your axle seal, but there is no need to replace the entire rear axle, just the tone ring, seal, possibly bearings, and MAKE SURE to get the OEM garbage OUT of the other side too before it doubles the repair bill. You are honestly better off completely deleting OEM Titan parking brakes (No matter year or mileage) than driving with them. The Duralast stuff from auto-zone is MUCH more durable than the OEM.

On good note, your truck will be completely driveable with the parking brakes removed. You will have the ABS/SLIP fault lit up until it is all repaired, but it will still run around no problem. Just check for seepage at the axle seal. I drove on mine without parking brakes, and with the ABS light on for MONTHS after mine exploded, in some heavy-duty situations, much off-road. If you are 4x4, you can still even use that, you just need to shut the truck off completely, wait about 10 seconds, switch the selector to desired setting, and then start it up. Same procedure for going back to 2. It's not the end of the world, but it does suck. It won't be cheap, but it won't require an entire new axle.
Thanks for the reply.
Once the tone ring, seal,bearing and spacer are replaced, do I have to drive out the old bearing race from the housing, or can I use the old one ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
207 Posts
How hard is the parking brake(s) to remove and reinstall? Seems like it's best to just remove the thing and reinstall if you need to pass some inspection. Do you have to take the truck apart to get to the things?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
My 2011 did the same thing just a couple months ago, only 50k miles on it. Good to know about the 4wd trick I thought I had to fix it first so I did. But yeah same story for mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,957 Posts
Thanks for the reply.
Once the tone ring, seal,bearing and spacer are replaced, do I have to drive out the old bearing race from the housing, or can I use the old one ?



My bearing didn't survive the removal, I also had a shop do it, as I don't have a press remotely large enough to press off/on the tone ring. I have heard of many cases where folks have removed a rear axle shaft and re-used the bearing and seal without issue. Keep in mind also, that I far too often tow overweight for the Titan, and it has been an offroad mountain workhorse since brand new, the bearing issue I had MIGHT just be caused by the over-stress I put on the rear end. You won't really know until you get it apart, unfortunately.

Yes piss poor design.....
whatever bonding agent is used to adhere the shoes to the backing plates breaks down over time, and with heat, causing the pads to come free (delaminate) off the metal, then they start spinning with the rotor, basically turning the whole drum into a blender for all the parts inside. It rips the springs loose, the plates loose, the toggle and the spacer bolts loose, and then grinds on the tone ring and rips the end off the ABS sensor. Correct, in a nutshell, OEM parking brake shoes are very low quality.

How hard is the parking brake(s) to remove and reinstall? Seems like it's best to just remove the thing and reinstall if you need to pass some inspection. Do you have to take the truck apart to get to the things?
When I did mine, it took me 2 hours to do the first side, 10 mins to do the second, as I was learning how as I went. You have to remove the rear tire, caliper (Just umount it and hang it out of the way, leave the brake lines attached so you don't need to bleed them after), and rotor. Taking them out is a cinch, but getting the duralast replacement springs (Much stouter than the OEM) back in was the real trick. What I learned to do, was use a long, thin phillips screwdriver (One you don't mind bending) hook the spring hook on the shaft of the screwdriver, poke the tip in the hole where it goes, and pry towards the hole, this causes the end of the spring to slide down the phillips and snap into the hole where it goes. I could not for the life of me figure out another way to do this. In my case, the most labor intensive part was hammering all the bits and pieces out from between the axle flange and the dust guard, as they were all wedged in at the bottom. If you never use the parking brake, you are much better off just removing them, but you can replace both sides with better hardware and pads for less than $50.

not 100% sure but it looks like the toggle bolts come in this hardware kit...

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...it-17401a/10217877-P?searchTerm=parking+brake
Not the spacers, the toggle BOX. It's a square, stamped piece with a hinged hook inside, the part that actually attatches to the cable end and 'toggles' the brakes on when you push the pedal, acting as a lever to push the shoes out against the inside of the drum on the rotor. When you release it, the springs reset the toggle box and the shoes retract.
This is for an altima, but it's VERY sililar to the one on the titan. Unfortunately I do not have a pic of the actual piece.... no wait, google comes through!


Nissan Titan 2004-05-06-07-08-09-10-11-2012 Parking Brake Toggle Lever | eBay


and that's badass, mine was $30. As seen in the OP pics, his is hammered. The toggle is a nissan specific part that you won't get in a parts-store kit. You have to source one, or if you're lucky, re-use the OEM. It's a heavy-duty stamped steel piece, hard to **** up making that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Not the spacers, the toggle BOX. It's a square, stamped piece with a hinged hook inside, the part that actually attatches to the cable end and 'toggles' the brakes on when you push the pedal, acting as a lever to push the shoes out against the inside of the drum on the rotor. When you release it, the springs reset the toggle box and the shoes retract.
Misunderstood what you meant. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,957 Posts
What press is needed to get the tone ring on?
I have heard of getting it off using a heat gun and a hammer, but I'm not sure for getting it back on. I'd personally be afraid I'd somehow misalign it and have to have it redone anyway. I suppose, if you were careful, the old standby of some blocks of wood and a BFH would do the trick for setting the new one in place. Just not something I cared to attempt myself, I'm sure there's someone on here who has done it successfully.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,957 Posts
NICE!!! Good searching, man. I had to get mine off ebay, or spend $70 at the nissan dealership, and wait 4 weeks. But, if yours haven't failed, I wouldn't replace the toggle levers, they are pretty fool-proof. Just the springs/spacers/shoes. as a testament to that, Since I changed mine, I've driven a handful of times forgetting to release the parking brake, and my P-brake hardware and shoes are still in pristine condition.. the OEM stuff is just junk, but not expensive to replace. Before you do your swap, take a pic of the assembly for reference, AND measure the spacer bolt to within 1/32nd of where it is set, and set the new one accordingly. This will save time during re-install.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,957 Posts
lol, I just realized that when I bing searched "Nissan Titan parking brake toggle box", It spat one of my own damage pics back at me..lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
332 Posts
Had the same thing happen to me about 4 years ago when my youngest son borrowed the truck and drove to school and back with the parking brake on. Poor design and a giant pain in the *** to work on too. Melted the ABS sensors, burned all of the mechanical parts. Took an afternoon to replace all of the parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
I am not a fan of the brake shoe locator pins that come in every aftermarket hardware kit. The stamped end is weak and doesn't stay in the Nissan dust plate as securely as the OEM pins with the 'witches hat' design. I have had the stamped ones fail before...with the result of new shoes detaching and ruining a brake job. Never had OEM pins fail. An $8 peace of mind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I tackled this job over the weekend, I used a 5lb slide hammer and whacked that axle over 100 times with no luck in getting it out, I finally put heat to the backside and it finally popped.
Removing the old spacer/bearing/oil seal/tone ring was fairly easy (thank you you tube), the inner race came out easily using the hook that came with the slide hammer.
I bought a 12 ton bearing press from Harbor Freight and with a little reworking of the frame, I was able to press on all the parts with no trouble.

Putting the axle back in is easy, just line it up, give it a little twist and it will seat, then drive it the rest of the way in with a dead blow hammer and tighten it down.
I changed the parking brake on the other side to be sure I didn't have to do this again.

Thanks to all for the guidance and advice.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top