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Discussion Starter #1
Went to inspection station today and he stated my parking was going to fail. He said that with the truck in drive he should be able to go up to 1500rpm and it still hold.

Here is my problem. I came home and bottomed out the adjustment screw by the pedal and it will hold in drive but just a little gas and it will go. I just changed my rotors and pads to frozen and hawk. While looking at the p-brake shoes..they looked ok, but did not have a new one to compare. I had axle leaks 13,000 miles ago and it says they changed shoes, and then just 1 week ago I had another axel seal replaced and they did not say anything about needing parking brake shoes.

Since the pedal adjustment is bottomed out, it it worth going under the rotors and adjusting that star adjustment????? If so what is the best tool to grab and adjust it. Which way should it turn Does anyone know how much pad should be there?? Or should I just replace both side shoes...While I am doing it should I buy new springs etc. Truck is 05 with 69,000

Also does anyone know if there is a good DIY on changing parking brake shoes out there.(with pics) I tried searching around and did not find much......a couple with text explainations, but not sure if I was reading correctly.
Thanks..
 
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Your parking brake shoes should NOT be wearing out. They're only "on" when the truck is stationary. Make sure they're clean and adjust the star wheel, but make sure you loosen the nut by the pedal first. You should be able to turn that wheel with a slotted screwdriver, but I don't remember which way. Have some brake cleaner on hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Lets keep the following in mind:
I just had the right axle seal replaced 734 miles ago. When I got home I finally did the axle mod with the Toyota breather. I then replaced my brakes with frozen and hawk pads about 600 miles ago.

So we know what happened today with the parking brake. So I pulled the rear tires to adjust the parking brake at the rotor. So I pulled off the left side and all was well adjusted them to where the rotor would barely go back on. I moved to right side and when I popped the right rotor The entire parking brake area was covered in some kind of fluid or grease it was very black:huh:. So I brake cleaned everything and adjusted the shoes and low and behold it held to the point of passing inspection.. Still not great but passed.
My concern was the fluid or grease on the parking brake shoes. On the shoes themselves it was kinda caked on and seemed more like grease than diff fluid. I was wondering when I was lubing everything in the brakes did I get carried away and put to much caliper grease somewhere and it get sucked into the P-brake shoes. Or is the seal leaking already:crying: Just want to be able to counter dealership if I bring it back to check the seal. Dont want them saying I did something when I replaced the brakes.
Also should I put the factory breather(still brand new) back in when I bring it in or leave the axle mod vent in place????
Also could the axle mod do anything to cause this. The line is still in place and in the taillight with the filter... and the 180 degree bend to prevent water going in. Did I need to put any kinda sealant on the threads on the Toyota part?? It went in tight and still seems snug.:ftard:
I am baffled on this one..:confused::confused::confused:
 

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Well, the rear diff fluid is pretty thick stuff. All it has to do is combine with a little brake dust or other dirt or dust and it's going to resemble grease. When my seals went, that stuff was all over inside the wheel and wheel well. It was so thick that even when I had my tires rotated and the rears went to the front it slung more of that greasy stuff off and I had it in the front wheel well.

Clean the wheel on the inside and revisit it in a week or so to see if it's still clean.
 

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I moved to right side and when I popped the right rotor The entire parking brake area was covered in some kind of fluid or grease it was very black:huh:. My concern was the fluid or grease on the parking brake shoes. On the shoes themselves it was kinda caked on and seemed more like grease than diff fluid. I was wondering when I was lubing everything in the brakes did I get carried away and put to much caliper grease somewhere and it get sucked into the P-brake shoes. Or is the seal leaking already:crying:
I am 99.99% sure that nobody is retarded enough to use enough brake grease to grease the parking brake shoes. So there is a very high probability that it is gear oil contaminating the brake shoes. Since it is caked on, rather than oily (currently leaking), it sounds to me like the dealer did a lousy job on the last seal replacement and did not replace the brake shoes.

Also should I put the factory breather(still brand new) back in when I bring it in or leave the axle mod vent in place????
Yeah, if you want to be in the best possible position to do battle with the dealer.


Also could the axle mod do anything to cause this.
Only if the vent line gets plugged or maybe you used a filter with a check valve.

Did I need to put any kinda sealant on the threads on the Toyota part??
A little Permatex thread sealant woudn't hurt, but make sure not to clog the nipple.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Oh yea I forgot to add that I had done the brake rotors after the seal replacement and the parking brakes were dry did rotors about 100 miles after seal replacement.
I doubled checked..... no check valve on filter.
Even with no breather at all and it had a plug...should the seal have lasted more than 734 miles?????
I did not think I got carried awy with the grease but was just wondering if it was possible??

Thanks for letting me pick your brain!!!!!
 

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Even with no breather at all and it had a plug...should the seal have lasted more than 734 miles?????
If it is plugged, it has to vent somewhere. Available options include axle seals and pinion seal.



I did not think I got carried awy with the grease but was just wondering if it was possible??
If you get 10,000 monkeys and put them to work doing brake jobs, probably eventually one of them will get brake grease on the parking brake shoes. As far as sane humans go, they are putting a small amount of grease on the caliper slide pins (encased in a rubber boot and far remote from the brake shoes) and a small amount of grease on the pad slide rail (outside of the rotor and far remote from the parking brake shoes) and a small amount on the skids for the parking brake shoes (remote from the friction surfaces of the shoes). If they are just changing rotors/pads following the how to thread, they may not even think to grease the parking brake shoe skids. So no, as a practical matter, I think it is essentially not possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks,
Well I pulled my axle mod, I check using my breath and I could blow through and suck in...so its not blocked.:redblob" Tucked it up and away zip tied it. Put the factory breather back in. Made an appointment for tomorrow to have it looked at. While under there entire inside of rim is covered in same stuff...No way caliper lube...lol:teethmast
Seal gone again I bet:ftard: in 734miles!!!!!
 

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msp928,

It sounds like the axle seal has started leaking...again! When you're at the dealer, have them inspect the parking brakes, shoes etc... And have them adjusted as THEY recommend! Then don't leave until you test drive it with the Service Manager or technician. Either the replacement seals failed, was installed incorrectly, or were NOT changed. The parking brake shoes can be adjusted with out removing the rotors. Just adjust the 'star' wheel inside the rotor/drum assembly, while rotating the rotor, keep adjusting until you feel a slight drag on the rotor while turning it. Then back off the adjusting star 1-2 clicks.

Hope this helps.

Keith

[email protected]
1.888.323.8456 / 952.746.8880
 

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The parking brake shoes can be adjusted with out removing the rotors. Just adjust the 'star' wheel inside the rotor/drum assembly, while rotating the rotor, keep adjusting until you feel a slight drag on the rotor while turning it. Then back off the adjusting star 1-2 clicks.
Unfortunately not. There is no access slot or hole, so you can't turn the star wheel w/o removing rotor.
 

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Unfortunately not. There is no access slot or hole, so you can't turn the star wheel w/o removing rotor.
Just did a complete replacement of my parking brake shoes. I think I've got the very beginnings of a rear seal leak on the rear passenger side, but that isn't what prompted me to check my parking brake pads. They weren't holding very well, so when I did an inspection I found the bottom shoe on the passenger side had begun to separate from the metal frame. Rather than being wet from axle grease, the shoe was actually rusted looking.

The job really wasn't that big of a deal and can be done with limited tools and experience. The one really hard thing to do is to get the heavy retainer spring off and on. I found an easy way to do it using a old screwdriver ground down into a punch. Just slip the end of the punch under the end of the spring and use the side of the shoe to leverage the spring back into the hole. Works really easy.

The question I have is how to get the pedal adjusted to where I have solid braking pressure on the rotors? When I got finished installing the shoes, I adjusted the star wheel until the shoes would barely fit back into the rotor. The only other adjustment I know of is the 10 mm screw on the pedal, but given how slack the park brake pedal is right now, I would have to run the screw way down to get any pressure at all. Is there something I missed or do I need to run the star wheel up some more?
 
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