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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, so I am at a loss here. I have a 2011 SL that is all stock other than an AirRaid Intake.

Truck ran awesome up until about 5 months ago and out of nowhere, it just seems to have lost power or "umph". It almost seems like it is being choked and held back. I have taken to the dealership and they said everything on the diagnostic side checks out fine when they hook it up to the computer. However, I have experienced a loss in performance regardless of what their computer says. I know I am not loosing my mind because every once in a while, the performance will be there when I step into it and it is like night and day....though that is becoming less and less when it happens to "return". I haven't experienced that joy for a while now.

I had the dealership even do the smoke thing or whatever it's called which was supposed to clean out the injection system and is supposed to make it better than new and remove all varnish or something. I think they just seen sucker written on my face because I'm desperate, lol. I thought maybe it was just dirty injectors. Nope. Still ran the same.

The best way I can explain the problem is this:

You know how when you have cruise control on and it automatically applies the brakes to slow you down to maintain the speed....that is what I can feel happening when the cruise is NOT on. At any speed, when you let off, it feels like the truck is slowing itself down. It is considerably more noticeable at low idle speeds around 20 mph. You can almost feel like the brakes are being applied and the vehicle wants to stop.

The truck now has 78k on it. Would it be an catalytic issue?

I am at a loss and losing patience because I know how well the truck ran before. I'm sure it is something stupid like a sensor or vaccume leak that I am just overlooking.

I figure rather than keep trying to guess, it would be easier to see if anyone else has experienced this and could point me in the right direction.

Any help would be really, really, really appreciated..... before I loose my mind and sell the dang thing, lol. :big_grin:
 

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Make sure it rolls freely on level ground.
Get some MAF cleaner and clean the MAF.
 

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Yeah, I second the thought from lubecakes - make sure the wheels turn freely, since you feel like the truck slows too quickly when you let off the gas. Could easily be one or more brake calipers hanging up, especially if you happen to drive in snow/salt country. With the wheels off the ground (and parking brake off), you should feel just a bit of brake drag when you turn the wheels, but they shouldn't turn hard. If the back wheels have too much resistance, check that the e-brakes aren't hanging up, also.
 

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The best way, and easiest, is to use some kind of temp gun to read the temperature of all your brakes.
 

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The temp gun might not work if its a bearing that is bad.

Jacking up the rearend and spinning the tire might not help either, as you will be spinning the other tire and all the internals in the rearend, which could lead you to believe its dragging, but theres really just a lot of rolling resistance. I would listen for any dragging when you spin the rear tires instead of trying to feel it. Unless its very very hard to turn... then its a different story.
 

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I've never seen a 4" hub bearing so bad that it caused significant rolling resistance over the force of a 31" tire.....But if it was that bad, you'd certainly know it.

When the caliper went bad on my Z, I never noticed any extra rolling resistance, but it was over 100° hotter than the others.
 

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I had the rear hub bearing explode inside my axle, completely came apart, to the point when i pulled the axle out of the housing, there was NOTHING on it. I drove for 10-15 miles towing a 6,000lbs trailer before i realized it went bad, and the only way i realized it was because the gear oil was burning on the brakes and smoking profusely. Its possible to not feel it but still be SIGNIFICANTLY bad.
 

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I had the rear hub bearing explode inside my axle, completely came apart, to the point when i pulled the axle out of the housing, there was NOTHING on it. I drove for 10-15 miles towing a 6,000lbs trailer before i realized it went bad, and the only way i realized it was because the gear oil was burning on the brakes and smoking profusely. Its possible to not feel it but still be SIGNIFICANTLY bad.
I'm not arguing with you.
 

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I've had a similar issue with my '05 for lots of years now, only mine is not constant.

Most of the time if I let off the gas I slow down quicker than I would expect- sort of like in a manual transmission and letting off the gas and keeping it in gear. The engine, in gear, slows the car down. Or perhaps it feels like I am towing a trailer, like something is holding me back. There are times though when I let off the gas and it feels like the transmission is not in gear so I coast much easier. When this happens, I also feel like the acceleration is much easier and with less effort.

Could it be the programming for the transmission? Maybe. Sticky caliper, low fluid somewhere, bad bearing, alignment? Maybe. Sometimes after topping off the air pressure in my tires, it runs better. Sometimes after a fuel up, it runs better.

Unfortunately if there isn't a CEL or something smoking, dealerships are reluctant to take the time to figure it out. I've gotten to the point I just live with it.
 

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Most of the time if I let off the gas I slow down quicker than I would expect- sort of like in a manual transmission and letting off the gas and keeping it in gear. The engine, in gear, slows the car down. Or perhaps it feels like I am towing a trailer, like something is holding me back. There are times though when I let off the gas and it feels like the transmission is not in gear so I coast much easier. When this happens, I also feel like the acceleration is much easier and with less effort.
skohler, there is a feature called "Brake Assist" (I think that's the name - could be wrong) that brings the transmission down a gear. To bypass that feature simply tap the accelerator. This feature is on SE and LE models.
 

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My XE downshifts to 3rd if you accelerate downhill with the brake lights on. My wife's Murano automatically back shifts going uphill or downhill based on load calculations and acceleration as well.
The Titan also keeps the torque converter locked when coasting in either 4th or 5th gear. This second feature is much like the engine braking felt with a manual transmission. It will not work until the ECU is in closed loop and the tranny is slightly warmed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay, just an update........first off, thanks to all with the suggestions! Love this forum.

Here is where I'm at.

1. I replaced brakes and rotors (was needing done regardless) and that wasn't it.
2. None of the brakes looked as though they were sticking.
3. All of the calipers seemed to move without issue and wasn't sticking.
4. The parking brake seemed okay with no excessive wear on the pad. Still looked new.
5. All bearings seemed to move freely and there was no excessive movement or noise.
6. I bought the MAF cleaner and cleaned everything and that wasn't it either.

I am running out of hope. I mentioned the symptoms to my dad and he said it sounds like a pcv valve. Does that make any sense or is he just a crazy old kooke, lol? If that is even a possibility, I don't know where (or how many) there are? Any insight?

Any other suggestions to check is welcome too.

Thanks again guys for all the help!
 

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Okay, just an update........first off, thanks to all with the suggestions! Love this forum.

Here is where I'm at.

1. I replaced brakes and rotors (was needing done regardless) and that wasn't it.
2. None of the brakes looked as though they were sticking.
3. All of the calipers seemed to move without issue and wasn't sticking.
4. The parking brake seemed okay with no excessive wear on the pad. Still looked new.
5. All bearings seemed to move freely and there was no excessive movement or noise.
6. I bought the MAF cleaner and cleaned everything and that wasn't it either.

I am running out of hope. I mentioned the symptoms to my dad and he said it sounds like a pcv valve. Does that make any sense or is he just a crazy old kooke, lol? If that is even a possibility, I don't know where (or how many) there are? Any insight?

Any other suggestions to check is welcome too.

Thanks again guys for all the help!

One off each valve cover I believe
 

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PCV Valves are simple to replace. 5 minutes a side at most.
 

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My 08 had a lot of torque until I had some work done on it. My sons replaced the starter, spark plugs, knock sensor, crank & cam sensors, brakes all around, steering column, (had a bad shifter handle), transmission filter & fluid, and the driveshaft center support bearing. Nothing that difficult, well they did cuss the starter portion of the job, but just basic stuff. I can really feel the difference in the torque. I don't feel any drag, but I'll check the free wheeling.

Since then I have replaced the VVT cam sensors. The check engine light is off now, but still not much torque.

Any ideas will be appreciated..
 
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