Just hit it with an air gun, you shouldn't reuse the old nut anyway. BTW are we talking front or rear pinion seal??
Pinion & Flange Removal - 2005
Okay, so I've read a couple dozen threads on here about the pinion seal leaking and how this is a common problem. Well it turns out that while changing the oil the other day I noticed the same thing happening. I am 100% positive it is the seal. It is getting slung out where the flange meets the diff. My question...how the hell do you remove the 30mm nut thats on the flange? I've taken a breaker bar to the damn thing and can't seem to break it loose. I'm reluctant to take an impact to it. It looks like a hardened brass nut and don't want to gum it up with an impact. Is there a trick to this? Step by step instructions on replacing this seal would be great.
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It's the front.
Just hit it with an air gun, you shouldn't reuse the old nut anyway.
+ 1 manual says replace nut
I swear nothing is easy on this thing. So I took the advice and hit it with an airgun. Nut came off but I still can't pull the flange off. I love my Titan, but the littlest projects turn into an all day adventure. Should I pry it off with a crowbar or take a pulley-puller to it and risk flatening the spline? I dunno. Any thoughts?
I'm not very mechanically inclined so I guess I am asking for step by step instructions. I took the advice and used an impact on the nut...success. Then I took the advice and used a puller on the yoke...success. Now I am at the seal. I guess since I'm replacing it I shouldn't care if I mangle it. Is there a quick trick on this I can learn here and apply to my knowledge bank.
You can mangle the seal and pry it out. Punch, chisel, hammer.
I have a small slide hammer known as a dent puller that works pretty good on those type of seals. Drill hole, screw in screw, pull with slide hammer.
Similar to link below.
Amazon.com: SG Tool Aid 81400 Dent Puller and Slide Hammer: Automotive
I have a small slide hammer known as a dent puller that works pretty good on those type of seals. Drill hole, screw in screw, pull with slide hammer.
Similar to link below.
Amazon.com: SG Tool Aid 81400 Dent Puller and Slide Hammer: Automotive
One last question. I believe I am in a heap of trouble right now. I marked the locknut with a screwdriver and hammer. Just a quick whack on it to leave a mark. I put another one on the housing so I can line everything back up to specs. Since I used the impact to get the nut off, it completely tore away my mark. Now I have no sense as to how tight to put the lock nut. After talking to Nissan they said it can be anywhere from 220-500ft lbs. If I tighten it too much, I could freeze up the bearings. If it's too loose I could tear up the bearing and have another mess. Is there any way to figure this out without chaning the crush sleeve?
If you have an inch-lb torque wrench you can keep tightening the nut down in small torque increments and then keep checking with the inch-lb wrench until you get to the proper rotation force torque spec . The problem is the manual states that you are supposed to record that spec prior to removing the nut, and then add 5 inch-lbs when you put it back. Also, maybe there is some drag from wheels, tires, brakes, CVs that changes things.
Teach me about pinion bearing preload - JeepForum.com
http://www.ringpinion.com/Content/H...tions/Yukon_Installation_Kit_Instructions.pdf
Dana 44 Ring and Pinion Help! - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
Teach me about pinion bearing preload - JeepForum.com
http://www.ringpinion.com/Content/H...tions/Yukon_Installation_Kit_Instructions.pdf
Dana 44 Ring and Pinion Help! - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
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