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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone please give me some advice? I have a 2005 LE crew 4X4 with 125k on the clock. Just yesterday, I noticed a popping/clicking/whirring sound in the rear-end. I've gotten under the truck and the only thing I noticed is some grease or something oozing from the driver's rear wheel area. I checked the rear-end to see if it was hot, thinking maybe the fluid was low. It was not hot to the touch. I'll be checking the fluid level this afternoon. I have parked the truck until I can get some info. Does anyone have any insight as to what else I might be able to check? Any help with this is greatly appreciated.
Eric
 

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you need to have the cover removed and all your gears checked ASAP.
 

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If possible I would lift the rear end up and spin the tires...if you hear an odd grinding noise coming from the differential that could be the cause of your problem. You also mentioned that you have a leak from the rear driver’s wheel that would suggest the infamous axle seal leak. If you’re lucky it could be the bearing that is causing the noise but from my experience the bearing would make a grinding noise that varied with speed. If your experiencing a popping or whining noise from the rear end I'd say your differential is about done...you could also drain the fluid from the rear differential...if you notice a lot of metallic flakes or metal shaving that could be a good indicator that your rear end is about to give…and as someone suggested drop the differential cover and visually inspect the gears. Good luck...sorry to hear that you’re having problems...
 

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could be a busted
parking brake
 

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I've had my 2005 LE in the driveway for 3 weeks for the same exact reason. Yesterday I finally got the time to drain it and pull the diff cover and it was ugly. Not just flakes, but chunks like pea gravel size of gear teeth...:crying:

Mine only has 75,000 on it, this is a very common story unfortunately.

Let us know how you end up on this, I'm looking into replacing the stock diff with a Truetrac and just disabling the e-lock. I'm just hoping the ring and pinon are OK, I haven't pulled the axles and diff assembly yet so I can only see about half of each.

Don't buy a new rear-end, rebuild with better parts! The dealership will tell you that it can't be rebuilt and you need a whole new rear end, but you can find the parts and a good mechanic and get it done for half the price and a way better rear-end.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It has been so cold where I live that I really haven't had a chance to do anything with it. I did attempt to drain the diff...no fluid came out at all. I'm thinking this is not a good sign! My dad and uncle are very good mechanics and we are going to rebuild it when possible. What I need now is a link or website for inexpensive replacement parts and a parts list. I found both on here, but can't seem to get back to those posts. If anyone can help with that it would be great. I don't have the e-locker, I'm pretty sure, but I also want to go with the True-Trac. Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

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It has been so cold where I live that I really haven't had a chance to do anything with it. I did attempt to drain the diff...no fluid came out at all. I'm thinking this is not a good sign! My dad and uncle are very good mechanics and we are going to rebuild it when possible. What I need now is a link or website for inexpensive replacement parts and a parts list. I found both on here, but can't seem to get back to those posts. If anyone can help with that it would be great. I don't have the e-locker, I'm pretty sure, but I also want to go with the True-Trac. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Atomman,

That is a pretty common occurance, it is not because your diff case is empty. All you need to do is remove the fill plug, then poke a screwdriver or bic pen into the drain hole. There is a waxy sludge plug that builds up there and if you poke through it then the gear oil will start draining. You may want to run it through a strainer just to catch the metal bits that will inevitably fall out.

Here is a link to the truetrac on ebay:
NISSAN TITAN DETROIT TRUETRAC POSI DIFFERENTIAL 913A582 - eBay (item 370463992543 end time Jan-05-11 08:05:43 PST)

Here is the link to the master rebuild kit:
http://www.superioraxlegear.com/352038-nissan-titan-rear-master-overhaul-bolts-p-15274.html

Hopefully your ring and pinon are OK, if not then you'll need this:
http://www.superioraxlegear.com/nissan-titan-rear-ring-pinion-gear-p-10713.html

As I'm doing more research, I'm finding lots of caveats. If you replace the locking diff with the Truetrac then you have to replace one of the axle shafts (or shim one, or manually grind longer splines). You will know if yours doesn't have the e-lock diff because you won't have the button on your dash. It looks like a picture of a chassis with an x where the rear diff is. If you don't replace the axle bearings and seals then there is a good chance you will have a leak afterward. In order to replace the bearings and seals you have to destroy the original bearing to get it off, then have the new ones pressed on-not easy to do unless you have the equipment...

The more I look into this the more I can see that this is not a backyard mechanic project, you need semi-professional experience and equipment to get it done.
 
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