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Discussion Starter #1
Dealer says it's coming from U joint but not bad enough to replace. Any ideas if this is correct or could it be something else?


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As one of the old Master Mechanics I learned from would have said, "Anytime a U-joint makes noise, it's bad enough to replace." U-joints go bad in a hurry, once they start to go.

Check everything in the driveline, start by taking it to someone who knows what they're doing. Obviously this guy doesn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
As one of the old Master Mechanics I learned from would have said, "Anytime a U-joint makes noise, it's bad enough to replace." U-joints go bad in a hurry, once they start to go.

Check everything in the driveline, start by taking it to someone who knows what they're doing. Obviously this guy doesn't.


Thanks. Any way I can spot check it myself? Not very good mechanically so sorry if dumb question. Also, is there more than one U joint?


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The old method was to get the vehicle in the air so you could rotate the entire driveline and get up good and close to it to watch for movement that shouldn't be happening. Hold one segment still and try to move the adjacent segment, working front to back. You try to move the segment, turn it 45°, try to move it again. Check for looseness, or "slop" in the joints. Check all carrier bearings as you go. Get the whole set of U-joints if something needs replacing, that way you don't have a return for 'the one you didn't replace'.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The old method was to get the vehicle in the air so you could rotate the entire driveline and get up good and close to it to watch for movement that shouldn't be happening. Hold one segment still and try to move the adjacent segment, working front to back. You try to move the segment, turn it 45°, try to move it again. Check for looseness, or "slop" in the joints. Check all carrier bearings as you go. Get the whole set of U-joints if something needs replacing, that way you don't have a return for 'the one you didn't replace'.


Thanks!


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Discussion Starter #9
Replaced U joint, still have popping/clicking sound. Im guessing this is now rear diff. Any suggestions or solutions? Thanks.


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Had same thing on my 2004. Clicking at slow speeds. Drove me crazy. Chased it for a while, then it stopped. Started back again about a year later. Finally found it... parking brakes. Brake pads had separated from the metal. They are located in the rear rotors. The rotors have a "drum" built in for parking brake. Changed both sides. Discovered the noise a year ago was the passenger side they were completely gone. Not worn just came apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Appreciate the insight. Had the e brake go on me already. Just put new rear brakes on and checked the e brake to safe. All good. The popping only happens when shifting not rolling.


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Just a thought but could it be a torn transmission mount? Other members could share their issues they had with the mount. Not sure if it would have the same symptoms.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update: opened up the rear diff, gears and bearings look good. No whining, howling or leaking. At this point narrowed down to a little too much backlash.


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