I'm not talking about squeaking, I greased everything up real good. I get a hard Knocking noise every time the truck is under articulation. That leads me to believe the shackles are knocking/hitting on the bed.
I had this same issue. The shackles are rubbing up against the bead seam. I had to cut the bed seam on each side (front and back) around the shackle and now it doesn't seem to make the noise. Hope this helps!
How do you bend the bed seam with the leaf springs in the way? I tried to bend them down, but when I hammered the bed seam, they just would bounce and didn't move. The titan bed seams are tough as hell to bend.
ok guys, called around and its been confirmed that the rear shackles in All Titans now use the updated 08 shackles (Part #55220-ZR00B $24.74 each roughly) so if you are pre 08 and need to replace bushings and plan to use your stock shackles save yourself the trouble and get the shackles and YES they do come with the bushings (Part #55047-7S200 $9.01 each roughly) already pressed in. Courtesy Parts and Everything Nissan are great places to order from. Placed my order but got killed on overnight shipping cause this is an urgent fix.
I installed the PRG shackles tonight. It took about 5 hours. I have the bedside storage box. With these tips, you can save yourself some time.
I recommend jacking up the rear of the truck quite high, and placing jack stands under the frame somewhere frontward of the rear axle. Be careful not to scratch the frame with your jackstands, as this can create an entry point for rust. I like the rubber jack stand feet I got at Harbor Frieght.
Remove the rear wheels. Trust me, this saves time. The differential needs to hang very low to install the shackles so you'll probably need the extra range of motion that removing the wheels will give you.
Place your jack under the rear differential. There is a nice flat spot under the pinon which is a designated jacking point. Since the vehicle is being suspended on the jackstands, placing the jack underneath the rear differential will cause it to compress or decompress depending on how much jack pressure you apply. From here, you'll need to play with the amount of lift you put onto the rear differential, to manipulate the leaf springs being in a position you need them to be. It will take some lifting, releasing, etc. to figure it out.
One you find the "sweet spot", you can remove the top and bottom shackle bolts without much trouble. If the differential is too high or too low, the bolts will be under stress and will not want to come out. You can damage the threads. Also, the top bolt will be blocked if not in the right position.
Once the bolts are removed, you'll need to grind down the little protruding bumps that are on the inside mating surface to the new shackle bushing. This is difficult as you cannot really see what you are doing because of where it is, unless you are williing to remove the rear bumper (I wasn't). You can use a flat file, or a dremel, or a grinding stone on a drill, or a die grinder, and work by feel. This mating surface needs to be smooth or else the nubs will chew up the new shackle bushing.
Once you've ground down the little nubs, the bare frame steel will be exposed. This will be an entry point for rust. You need to spray the bare metal with primer or paint and let it dry.
When reinstalling, I used Marine Grease on the recommendation of performancelifts.com.
I have a 2005 LE and had to remove the storage box. I wasted a lot of time trying to disassemble and remove the plastic inner box. Eventually I removed the 6 14mm bolts that mount the entire assembly to the frame of the truck, and it dropped out in one piece. You'll see 4 of the 14mm bolts looking up from underneath the rear bumper. To reach the other 2, you'll need to pull back the driver's side rear wheel inner wheel wheel lining. Once the 6 bolts are removed the entire assembly drops out and leaves wide open access to the shackle.
Here she is with on the lowest setting of the PRG shackles. Still a little raked, just less so.