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PRG Shackle install

25K views 26 replies 16 participants last post by  IanT 
#1 ·
Did this a while ago, thought I would share. Word has it you dont have to grind off the oem locating tabs with the new PRG shackle design.

Description

These are a super heavy duty shackle designed to replace the extremely weak and break-prone stock shackles. These shackles are almost 2" longer than stock (any longer and they would hit the bottom of the bed) and offer from 0", 1/2", or 1" of drop. These can be used for various applications: as an upgrade for stock Titans that see a lot of off roading, to lower the rear on a street truck, or to slightly offset the lift from our PRG DEAVER 3-LEAF SPRING PACKS. These come with a urethane pivot that allows for much less binding on the shackle pivot and a better overall ride compared to stock. They are pretty easy to install and only require simple hand tools, a jack, and jack stands. These come powdercoated gloss black.
Link:
http://www.prgproducts.com/shop/product/pr...titan_shackles/

The goods!





If your truck has the bed storage box you will need to remove it for the shackle install. See this link for a how-to.

Link doesnt work.. Ill post a how to later.....

Shackle install.

Tools:

19mm wrench
19mm ratchet with breaker bar or 19mm socket and impact wrench
Prybar
Jack
Jack stands
Grease
Dremel tool with grinding wheel or metal file
Wood blocks (4-6 2x6's)

Chock front wheels of truck so it doesnt move.

Jack up one side of the truck using the frame so that the rear wheels are slightly off the ground. Support with jack stand. Repeat on other side of truck. Note: most jacks/jack stands dont go high enough so you may have to use wood blocks under the jack.



Remove lower shackle bolt (19mm). If there is not much tension on the spring pack the bolt should work it's way out just by turning it. If you have too much tension on the spring you can releive it by either jacking the truck up higher or lower. You will know if there is some tension as the bolt will start to come out at an angle from the force of the spring.



Now remove the upper shackle bolt. To get this bolt out all the way it must clear the frame. To get it to clear the frame jack up your axle thus lifting the spring pack up against the bottom of the bed. There is a seam about 3/4" deep on the bottom of the bed. If the shackle bracket hits this seem the bolt will not clear the frame. I found that using a prybar on spring while jacking up the axle I was able to guide the shackle bracket wide of the seem giving me the height I needed to remove the upper bolt. If you are thinking that you can just put the bolt in the other way upon install you cant. It will hit the frame and you wont be able to seat the nut/bolt.



Using pry bar and jack to raise shackle mount/leaf high enough for the upper bolt to clear the frame.



Remove shackle

OEM shackle and PRG shackle







There are 2 locating tabs on the shackle mount that need to be ground off or they will not allow for the PRG shackle to seat properly and if not removed they will tear at the bushing on the new shackle.

Locating tabs:



Locating tabs ground away. Took about 5 minutes and 2 grinding wheels with my Dremel tool.



Intstall the new shackle top bolt first. Your leaf spring should still be jacked up and at the proper height to get the bolt over the frame. For the lower bolt slowly lower your jack/axle until the bottom shackle hole lines up with the shackle mount. Install bolt and nut and torgue both to 63 ft lbs...





For the other side you will have to jack up the axle to get the top shackle bolt hole above the frame as you did when you removed it. Install top bolt/nut and then lower the axle to line up the lower holes. Again, torque to 63 ft lbs.

Note: I dont know if this kit is supposed to come with instuctions but mine did not. Make sure you lube the bolts that go into the bushings with grease (brearing grease or something similar) If you dont lube them you will be very sorry and have to back out the bolts to lube them when you cant stand the squeek anymore.

I used the middle mount hole on the PRG shackles and got roughly a 1/2" of drop on the rear. with the PRG mini lift and 10 psi in my air bags I had a small amount of rake but now she sits level.

Some pics of the weak welds on the OEM shackles.









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#2 ·
nice write up! im going to be doing this soon
 
#3 ·
Great write-up Kev. My shackle MOUNTS have been welded twice and it's time again..........."keep" your eye on them.:)
 
#4 ·
It's been said many times by others that have changed out shackles that once you have the jack stands under the frame, the easiest way to proceed is to put your floor jack under the diff area and raise and lower it to the right tension needed for easy bolt removal.
 
#5 ·
I'll second that! This job is easier than it looks, especially with an Impact Wrench to move the hardware quickly.
 
#6 ·
Great info! I have a set of these riding in the back seat waiting on time to do the install!
 
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#7 ·
sah weet....i just ordered drop shackles today...ill post up pics when shes done. only reason i got them was to make the front look a little higher than the rear... anyone have any pics with the *** end dropped one inch with spacers or coilovers in the front?
 
#8 ·
Great right up! Hopefully you greased the heck out of those things. I noticed that if I don't grease them and my PRG T-bars every now and then they either a) start making noise or b) decrease the ride quality. I've tried synthetic wheel bearing grease, hi temp brake grease, and now Formula 5 lube from energy suspensions. The wheel bearing grease and hi temp grease work for a bit, then it starts to squeak and ride rough. The Formula 5 actually does pretty well. However, the ride quality starts to decrease after 10,000 miles or so but there is no squeaking with it.

BTW, do you have the 08 brakes on yet?
 
#9 ·
Roger that on the squeaks........mine have been doing that for a month or so and it sounds like something is about to fall off the back of the trruck. Even when I shut the doors it squeaks. Time for lube!
 
#11 ·
I followed krh2' instructions when i installed my springtech drop shackles & it made it really easy. Good luck & keep us posted! :)
 
#13 ·
two quick questions..1. is anything different if I already have 2" blocks blocks back there? Will it cause more pressure on the leaf or anything that I should watch out for? 2. Does the grease thing also apply to OEM 08+ shackles or is that just for the drop shackles?
 
#17 ·
I'm bringing this back from the dead because I have an issue with some lowering shackles that were just installed.

This past weekend I installed a set of 2'' lowering shackles from Maxtrax. Installation went smooth, truck rides great, no complaints other than what I believe to be the shackles hitting the bed. Has anyone ever just trimmed down the pinch bolt lip where the top of the shackle gets closest to? While reading the thread (wish I did prior to installation) I realized I didn't grind down the little protruding piece of metal on the hanger. How quickly will this become a problem? I plan on doing a full spring under set up within a few months anyways and I'll have access then, but if the bushing is going to get torn to shreds quickly the only option is grinding those little nubs down asap. Thanks for the help gents.
 
#18 ·
My SpringTech drop shackles were close to the bed, but not touching.

 
#19 ·
I had the PRG shackles. The squeaking drove me nuts!! I greased them a few times but the squeaking eventually came back..Removed the PRG shackles, ordered and installed the DIRT KING shackles with grease fittings engineered in the design " wow what a novel idea..lol " and no squeaking ever agian...Plus they appear to be a lot more robust...
 
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#20 ·
I also greased my poly bushings real good when i installed the SpringTechs.

No squeaking! :)
 
#23 ·
Sorry to hear you had bed contact!

It's weird that some have problems & some don't???

I wouldn't CUT any seams, instead bend it out of the way. ;)
 
#25 ·
I believe i just bent it out of the way with a pair of pliers.

Here's a pic:


Looks like i need to hit the seams with some rust reformer!
 
#26 ·
ok guys, called around and its been confirmed that the rear shackles in All Titans now use the updated 08 shackles (Part #55220-ZR00B $24.74 each roughly) so if you are pre 08 and need to replace bushings and plan to use your stock shackles save yourself the trouble and get the shackles and YES they do come with the bushings (Part #55047-7S200 $9.01 each roughly) already pressed in. Courtesy Parts and Everything Nissan are great places to order from. Placed my order but got killed on overnight shipping cause this is an urgent fix.
 
#27 ·
I installed the PRG shackles tonight. It took about 5 hours. I have the bedside storage box. With these tips, you can save yourself some time.

I recommend jacking up the rear of the truck quite high, and placing jack stands under the frame somewhere frontward of the rear axle. Be careful not to scratch the frame with your jackstands, as this can create an entry point for rust. I like the rubber jack stand feet I got at Harbor Frieght.

Remove the rear wheels. Trust me, this saves time. The differential needs to hang very low to install the shackles so you'll probably need the extra range of motion that removing the wheels will give you.

Place your jack under the rear differential. There is a nice flat spot under the pinon which is a designated jacking point. Since the vehicle is being suspended on the jackstands, placing the jack underneath the rear differential will cause it to compress or decompress depending on how much jack pressure you apply. From here, you'll need to play with the amount of lift you put onto the rear differential, to manipulate the leaf springs being in a position you need them to be. It will take some lifting, releasing, etc. to figure it out.

One you find the "sweet spot", you can remove the top and bottom shackle bolts without much trouble. If the differential is too high or too low, the bolts will be under stress and will not want to come out. You can damage the threads. Also, the top bolt will be blocked if not in the right position.

Once the bolts are removed, you'll need to grind down the little protruding bumps that are on the inside mating surface to the new shackle bushing. This is difficult as you cannot really see what you are doing because of where it is, unless you are williing to remove the rear bumper (I wasn't). You can use a flat file, or a dremel, or a grinding stone on a drill, or a die grinder, and work by feel. This mating surface needs to be smooth or else the nubs will chew up the new shackle bushing.

Once you've ground down the little nubs, the bare frame steel will be exposed. This will be an entry point for rust. You need to spray the bare metal with primer or paint and let it dry.

When reinstalling, I used Marine Grease on the recommendation of performancelifts.com.

I have a 2005 LE and had to remove the storage box. I wasted a lot of time trying to disassemble and remove the plastic inner box. Eventually I removed the 6 14mm bolts that mount the entire assembly to the frame of the truck, and it dropped out in one piece. You'll see 4 of the 14mm bolts looking up from underneath the rear bumper. To reach the other 2, you'll need to pull back the driver's side rear wheel inner wheel wheel lining. Once the 6 bolts are removed the entire assembly drops out and leaves wide open access to the shackle.

Here she is with on the lowest setting of the PRG shackles. Still a little raked, just less so.
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