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Discussion Starter #1
WHats the specific way to bleed your brakes on the T? I need to bleed mine...

I havent done a set in a while, but the way I used to do it was basically pump the brakes up in the cab with the pedal till it gets hard. Then bleed the brakes at the caliper starting with the fartherest away from the master cyclinder. Which in the case of the T would be the passenger side rear. bleed the pressure off, then pump it up a few more times bleed again till I get clear and clean fluid out the bleeder. then I would move to the driver side rear, and then the passenger side front, then the last would be the driver side front.
 

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You need two people or a power bleeder or speedbleeder bleed screws (check valve screws). With the OEM screws, you put a small diameter hose on the bleed screw and put the end of the hose in a container to collect brake fluid. Then you loosen the screw and call out to your assistant to depress the brake pedal, causing air and brake fluid to exit the hose into your container. You then tighten the bleed screw and instruct your helper to release the brake pedal. If the pedal is released with the screw open, it may suck air back into the caliper. You repeat that a few times at each wheel and repeat the cycle about 3 or 4 times around the truck. This always gives me a very firm pedal if I go 3 or 4x around. You must also keep refill the master cylinder under the hood periodically during this process. With the speedbleeder screws, you loosen the screw, put on the hose, put the end of the hose in the container, hop in the truck and pump the pedal a few times. The check valve prevents back sucking of air, so no assistant is required.
 

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I did the front end with a friend of mine, the same way bestatchess said, and it works great! Took about 10 min, but went through a half of a little bottle, and it bled all over my tires. Also, has anyone noticed how short the brakes distance is from standard to the floor? Its SHORT compared to other trucks ive driven!
 

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Where can you get the speed bleeders? and how much are they? If they are expensive, it wont be worth getting them. But if they are quite affordable then I could justify buying them.
 

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none of those links really help...First was for nothing but american made trucks, 2nd was 4 models with thread specific sizes and the last only listed Nissan pickup trucks from 79-96
 

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I use the SpeediBleeder unit on my Dodge Grand Caravan, Ford Ranger and Nissan Titan. It does a nice job with no mess. They have a cap that works on the Titan so there are no bolts to tighten. Just put it on, pressure it up and go to town at each wheel.
 

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That looks pretty slick. So it pressure flushes brake fluid from the master cylinder through all the lines, using a tire as a pressure tank, if I understand it correctly. Two questions:

1. What is the difference between DIY and PRO, other than the box?

2. If you get the version for NISSAN does that work on the Titan w/o needing any other caps or adapters?
 

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That looks pretty slick. So it pressure flushes brake fluid from the master cylinder through all the lines, using a tire as a pressure tank, if I understand it correctly. Two questions:

1. What is the difference between DIY and PRO, other than the box?

2. If you get the version for NISSAN does that work on the Titan w/o needing any other caps or adapters?
More than you wanted to know but I'm feeling chatty tonight. :)

1. I think you are correct. I have the Complete version. I couldn't figure out which adapter was which and I have three different makes of vehicles to take care of. Plus I wanted it to work with whatever vehicle I bought in the future. But mainly it was because I didn't know enough to get the specific adapters. They did add a divider to the toolbox to make the bottle sit in there without it being horizontal. Not a huge selling point in my opinion but it shows that they added at least some value to the toolox.
2. The brown double ended adapter is what I used on my Titan. The second time. :( The first time I was two weeks into chemo/radiation treatment for throat cancer and I shouldn't have been working on anything other than a nap. I couldn't get any of the model specific adapters to go on (I wasn't trying hard enough) so I used the universal adapter. After attaching it and pressuring it up I couldn't get the bleeder screw undone with reasonable force. So I went inside for a gut-check on the forums to see if I was doing anything wrong. I got sidetracked and took a nap before I went back out. Ugh. The universal adapter had not been tightened down enough by the universal idiot and a 16 oz bottle's worth of (expensive AMSoil) brake fluid had leaked out of the brake reservoir down the engine and on to my (formerly) painted garage floor and my tire was flat. Brake fluid is a little like paint stripper.

After cleaning up my mess I put my Speedibleeder away for a few months. When I was feeling better I sent an email to Speedibleeder asking about an adapter that fit the Titan and how to store the unit for long term storage. Here is what they sent back:

1. Long Term Storage

1. Empty the brake fluid out of the pressure bottle
2. Connect pressure bottle to tire (spare is best for below)

A. Connect adapter to pressure bottle
B. Place adapter in suitable container
C. Adjust the pressure to 5 psi
D. Blow out the fluid from the pressure bottle fluid hose
E. Disconnect the adapter
F. Adjust the pressure to 15 psi and then down to 0 psi
G. Repeat step F a few times to blow any fluid out the air
hose and regulator (from regulator relief hole)
H. Disconnect and store tool

2. Nissan Titan

The Nissan Titan should take the C500 Ford-Chrysler adapter.
Most Nissan & Infiniti since 1994 use a twist on filler cap.
The are exceptions such as Versa, Altima, and new Maxima.

3. C100 strap tighten

This adapter does work quite well. The key is to center the
adapter and evenly tighten the wing nuts (indent rubber)
A good 15 psi seal should result.




My (limited) understanding of brake fluid is that brake systems perform poorly because the brake fluid has absorbed moisture. Maybe thier procedure above gets rid of almost all the fluid but there is going to be some residual fluid still there. For that reason I wash my unit out with soap and water, thoroughly rinse it, blow out the lines with compressed air and then let everything dry out unassembled.

I have used my SpeediBleed four times now. I'm pretty pleased with it. I plan to replace the brake fluid in my vehicles every two years.
 
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If you have access to a compressor this is what I use. It's hard to beat for 26 bucks.
Brake Fluid Bleeder
 
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