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Discussion Starter #1
So, as some know my truck has had converter failures and they are giving me a replacement engine due to EXCESSIVE oil consumption. Are these engines brand new? Service advisor tells me they are but I doubt it.

Anyways, I was looking for some advice on proper break in for an engine. So far I am going to install a magnetic drain plug, change the oil and filter after 25 miles and take a trip to Cali since I heard freeway driving is best for the break in since it is around the same rpm for an extended period of time.

Am I on the right track so far? I am still not sure whether or not to wait til 3k miles to change the oil again or do it sooner. What do you guy's think??
 

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When mine was new I changed the oil and filter at 500 miles then again at 1200 miles then regular 3k from there on . The service manager or tech thought it was excessive but it made me feel better and it was only $25 a change so why not. Good Luck
 

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Yeah, quicker oil changes are like cheap insurance IMO. They say it is no longer necessary in today's engines and that they don't run break in oil but my first oil change looked like dirty water. That stuff was THIN at only 491 miles.

Oh yeah, the mag plug is a good idea, while not entirely necessary due to filter configuration.
 

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Titan5683 said:
take a trip to Cali since I heard freeway driving is best for the break in since it is around the same rpm for an extended period of time.
I was taught that it is best to avoid constant rpms during break-in. I just drove mine like normal.
 

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You guys are throwing dollars into the street. There is absolutely no reason to change out the factory oil until you have 3000 miles on it. I did my first oil change at 2900 miles, after it was in there for 6 months, and it looked just fine. Two years later, using the 6 month schedule, the engine is running quiet with zero oil comsumption, and it's running like a raped Gazelle. There are tons of articles supporting this data, especially with modern engines and todays oil.

Always vary your RPMs during breakin and avoid full throttle high RPM runs till you have 1000 miles or so on the motor.
 

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I'm with Suddenrge on this one, I kept my factory fill for almost 3k. I also performed a used oil analysis at 10k that showed a very nice wearing engine.

I think the conventional wisdom is to not put your engine under excessive load while new. You want the parts with metal to metal contact to break in with tight tolerances. Excessive loads may cause increased wear in a certain area of say, a cylinder, a main bearing etc that is stressed by the torque of a high load situation.

Changing your oil early will certainly do no harm. Rest assured the oil filter should catch any undue particulate matter from break in.
 

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Ok, I'll start a heated discussions and as it states in the article "Welcome to one of the most controversial motorsports pages on the internet"

Don't shoot me; I'm only the messenger!

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 

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Quartz said:
I was taught that it is best to avoid constant rpms during break-in. I just drove mine like normal.
You are correct. You need to change the RPM's as much as possible diring the initial break-in period. Read the owner's manual. There is an entire section devoted to engine break-in.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I figured there would be something in the owner's manual about break in, but my truck never came with one and the stealership told me that it sure did and I needed to purchase one. The things I mentioned in my first post were just things that I have heard. Thanks for sharing some of your knowledge on this topic. :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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I break my bikes in like no tomorrow.

Dino oil on new bike.

Run like i stole it for 20 mins.

Shut it down for 20.

Run it for 20 again, through all gears and RPM's.

Cool down for 20.

Change out for Full Syn.

Ride like i want.

12 yrs on Pingers and Thumpers and I've broken in the motors the same.


As for my Titan.

I ran it like I stole it from day one.

Changed the oil @ 500, and 1000 and now run it however.

I just run through the RPM's and let cool down, pretty much the same as dude in the article states.
 

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I think there is alot of b.s. in that break in article. Yeah, he knows more than Nissan and all the other builders out there. Its not just rings, its the bottom end and the how about the rear end? I agree to not baby it, just drive it normally like the book says. I have done this with many new vehicles and none have ever burned oil or had a problem.
 

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Regardless of what any of you guys say. The Lot Techs and the Service Techs that prep the cars and trucks before they go up for sale, break them in for you.

However, I have dont that mototune break-in method on the dyno on my street bikes. For my race bike, after every season, I would break down my TZ250, inspect the internals and moving parts, and rebuild. As always, I find nothing wrong and no carbon build up. After the rebuild, it's back to square one and back to the track for break-in.
 
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